Airbrushing Tips and Guides

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

So I have not built a model in about 20 years, but I decided to return to the hobby. I was still a beginner air brusher when I stopped building models, so i’m sill a beginner now…

I just bought a new airbrush set, nothing crazy, but it had great reviews, and people shared pics of their models in the reviews. So I figured it would be a good beginner set to learn on. It came with a compressor, two gravity feed airbrushes, and one siphon feed airbrush. It also came with several different needles, bottles, and cleaning stuff.

My questions:

1. What is best for an airbrush noob to practice learn on? Gravity or siphon?
2. Any tips for ways to practice and learn?
3. What is the correct consistency of the paint?
4. The guide I have says 20-30 psi? Should you be on the lower or higher end.

I’m going to start off with my kids Titanic model, so at least it won’t require crazy camo.

After that I plan on doing the Bismarck and the Hood, followed by a few military helicopters. Once I have the helicopters down I want to get back into WW2 aircraft again.

Its going to be a long but fun journey.

 

[Snautzer01]

No tips but wishing you big fun restarting this hobby.

 

[rochie]

its a slippery slope Chris

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Its a minefield Chris and the best thing I would recommend is to watch some of the videos and start playing with bits of plastic or even card just so you can get the feel and see the results of what your doing. As for paint ratios, I have to confess to being a lazy sod and now have a range of acrylic paints suited only to airbrush use. As for the pressure, again this would depend on the nature of the spray your doing, be it close in or just general. I will leave that for others to chat about as many are far more expert than I. Just as a matter of interest, I use gravity fed sprays and always ensure that the moisture is removed from my compressor before and while spraying, mine has a little water reservoir with a press release valve just before the air feed pipe.

 

[Airframes]

You'll probably find that a gravity-fed 'brush is easier Chris. Syphon types tend to be for larger areas, such as R/C models, with a relatively large paint bottle underneath, which can be awkward to handle for smaller scales.
For practice, start with kids water colour paints, the liquid type in medium sized bottles, which are fairly cheap and last some time. Spray onto paper or card. This will allow you to get the hang of the trigger controls and various pressures, and I'd suggest starting at around 15 psi, and then slowly increasing pressure to see the effects.
Mix the paint with water, so that it flows down the mixing jar/cup with the consistency of milk - you'll need to experiment to get the desired consistency.
Once happy with the practice sessions, move onto your preferred paint type.
I use enamels, so can't advise much on the various acrylic mix ratios, not having used them much.
But for enamels, the mix ratio is normally around 50/50 paint/thinner, with more thinner for a lighter coat. Again, some experimenting is needed.
An average pressure would be around 15 to 18 psi, and down to maybe 12 for very delicate jobs such as mottles. Again, the paint should flow down the side of the mixing jar like milk.
As has been mentioned, there's a lot more to this than can easily be explained, but it is NOT as difficult as it sounds. the key is practice and experimenting, an you'll soon get the hang of it.
The first time I used an airbrush was back in the late 1970's, and the pic below shows the (rather ambitious) attempt on the second model I painted, a 1/32nd scale FW190 which, considering the relatively short practice time, wasn't too bad. Paints were Humbrol enamels.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Its a minefield Chris and the best thing I would recommend is to watch some of the videos and start playing with bits of plastic or even card just so you can get the feel and see the results of what your doing. As for paint ratios, I have to confess to being a lazy sod and now have a range of acrylic paints suited only to airbrush use. As for the pressure, again this would depend on the nature of the spray your doing, be it close in or just general. I will leave that for others to chat about as many are far more expert than I. Just as a matter of interest, I use gravity fed sprays and always ensure that the moisture is removed from my compressor before and while spraying, mine has a little water reservoir with a press release valve just before the air feed pipe.

Thanks for the tips. I planned on spraying on cardboard first. Trying dots, lines, and connect the dots.

Yes, this compressor has a moisture reservoir as well. Good to know to do that though.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

You'll probably find that a gravity-fed 'brush is easier Chris. Syphon types tend to be for larger areas, such as R/C models, with a relatively large paint bottle underneath, which can be awkward to handle for smaller scales.
For practice, start with kids water colour paints, the liquid type in medium sized bottles, which are fairly cheap and last some time. Spray onto paper or card. This will allow you to get the hang of the trigger controls and various pressures, and I'd suggest starting at around 15 psi, and then slowly increasing pressure to see the effects.
Mix the paint with water, so that it flows down the mixing jar/cup with the consistency of milk - you'll need to experiment to get the desired consistency.
Once happy with the practice sessions, move onto your preferred paint type.
I use enamels, so can't advise much on the various acrylic mix ratios, not having used them much.
But for enamels, the mix ratio is normally around 50/50 paint/thinner, with more thinner for a lighter coat. Again, some experimenting is needed.
An average pressure would be around 15 to 18 psi, and down to maybe 12 for very delicate jobs such as mottles. Again, the paint should flow down the side of the mixing jar like milk.
As has been mentioned, there's a lot more to this than can easily be explained, but it is NOT as difficult as it sounds. the key is practice and experimenting, an you'll soon get the hang of it.
The first time I used an airbrush was back in the late 1970's, and the pic below shows the (rather ambitious) attempt on the second model I painted, a 1/32nd scale FW190 which, considering the relatively short practice time, wasn't too bad. Paints were Humbrol enamels.


View attachment 736208

I think it looks amazing.

Thanks for the tips,

 

[Airframes]

You're welcome Chris.

 

[Snautzer01]

You'll probably find that a gravity-fed 'brush is easier Chris. Syphon types tend to be for larger areas, such as R/C models, with a relatively large paint bottle underneath, which can be awkward to handle for smaller scales.
For practice, start with kids water colour paints, the liquid type in medium sized bottles, which are fairly cheap and last some time. Spray onto paper or card. This will allow you to get the hang of the trigger controls and various pressures, and I'd suggest starting at around 15 psi, and then slowly increasing pressure to see the effects.
Mix the paint with water, so that it flows down the mixing jar/cup with the consistency of milk - you'll need to experiment to get the desired consistency.
Once happy with the practice sessions, move onto your preferred paint type.
I use enamels, so can't advise much on the various acrylic mix ratios, not having used them much.
But for enamels, the mix ratio is normally around 50/50 paint/thinner, with more thinner for a lighter coat. Again, some experimenting is needed.
An average pressure would be around 15 to 18 psi, and down to maybe 12 for very delicate jobs such as mottles. Again, the paint should flow down the side of the mixing jar like milk.
As has been mentioned, there's a lot more to this than can easily be explained, but it is NOT as difficult as it sounds. the key is practice and experimenting, an you'll soon get the hang of it.
The first time I used an airbrush was back in the late 1970's, and the pic below shows the (rather ambitious) attempt on the second model I painted, a 1/32nd scale FW190 which, considering the relatively short practice time, wasn't too bad. Paints were Humbrol enamels.


View attachment 736208

That is the bizz. Glanzed over it, thought it was a period colour for a second.

 

[Airframes]

Thank you !
It's a scan from a 35mm Ektachrome transparency, taken in 1978 or '79. (and I still have the model !).

 

[Crimea_River]

Much has been said already Chris. Through practice with different paint ratios and pressures you'll soon come to understand what's right for you and your brush. Practicing on cardboard is fine as long as you understand that it is an absobant material that will not react to your techniques the same way as painting on hard plastic.

 

[Builder 2010]

I've been airbrushing for almost 50 years. The advice given is good. The hardest part is cleaning the darn thing. I would also advise buying a good one, either Badger or Pasche for example. Badger is still made in Chicago, and with a lifetime warranty. I can attest to that. I sent back a 40 year old finelline XF 150 and they rebuilt it completely for the price of shipping. Badgers have teflon seals and are not affected by any paint solvents. Chinese guns, while half the price, have o-rings that are dissolved in acetone or lacquer thinner. Useless. I bought a set of these for general use and didn't get a month out of them before they copletely failed. When acrylic paints dries in the fine channels, the only way to get it out is with aggressive solvent. You need a gun that won't dissolve in it. If you can't clean it, it won't last very long.

If you're serious, buy a compressor with an air reservoir, regulator with gauge and water separator. I used a Badger diaphram compressor for years. While rugged and trustworthy, it lacked those features and pulsed a lot when running which was sub-optimal. I sprayed at what ever pressure it produced naturally. I upgraded five years ago and very happy that I did.