Airbrush kit help.

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Given that the needle, and the nozzle, are well machined, and manufactured from good-quality metals, almost any airbrush will provide the required spray accuracy, defined by the nozzle/needle diameter. With time, softer, or cheaper materials will wear, which will cause variations in the set spray pattern, and probably uneven delivery of paint, with 'spitting', or pulsing. (the latter mainly due to a completely 'knackered' main seal, causing uneven air flow.)
However, the important part for control, is the clutch.
The quality of the clutch tensioner, and it's ability to maintain the set tension, in many ways marks the quality of any particular air brush. Cheaper copies of 'top brand' brushes such as Iwata, may, and more than likely do, use lower quality materials, which will probably lead to shorter overall life, as the clutch tension becomes more and more difficult to maintain.
That said, if, for example, an 'AB' airbrush performs satisfactorily for, say, two years, and can be 're-juvenated' by 're-building' with new, spare parts at a reasonable cost, then this has to be balanced against the initial cost of a 'top brand' air brush.
At the moment, I can't justify spending £150 to £200, or more, on an air brush, even if it will outlast me.
I can, however, justify spending £20+ on an acceptable air brush, maybe every two or three years which, allowing for time, fiddling, inconvenience, and the cost of spare parts, is probably cheaper than re-building the originally purchased 'brush. Given I'm physically able to continue modelling for another 15 years or so (by which time I'll be 76), and I have to replace an airbrush every 3 years, then, at an equivalent price of £20, every three years, that's £100 - still a lot less than the more expensive alternatives which, over time, would still need money spent on them to maintain serviceability!
As a side note, my very first air brush, bought 35 years ago, but lost in a house move some four years later, was the then new, and quite revolutionary, 'Humbrol Studio One', which was a metal, double action, gravity fed 'brush, with a then unique single, slide-action trigger, with the air hose feeding into the end of the body. This was a truly superb, very accurate instrument, capable of very fine line work, as well as a spray pattern up to about 3/4 inch, if m y memory serves me. Theywere not cheap, as the AB 'brushes are, but compared to the average cost of an air brush in those days, they were by no means expensive, very far from it.
Whether they disappeared due to the changes of ownership of Humbrol at the time, or due to pricing, I don't know - perhaps Humbrol under-priced them drastically, leading to a loss - but it really was a superb, very wel

Now that is a well researched, validated and an honest post. That was wonderful information and wisdom to live by. Thanks for that.
 
And if you have sausage fingers like I do then you don't have to worry about your own clumsiness, because if you ruin the thing it is not the end of the world when you have only paid twenty notes for it. I am thinking that I will pick up another AB, although definitely not a suction model. I am also thinking that enamel is always going to be a pig to clean from airbrushes which can lead to accidents, wear and breakages.
Thanks for your advice chaps, it has been very useful.
 
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So you may pick up one of these I use. The first on is with a nozzle of 0.3mm and the second one with a nozzle of 0.2mm. Of course both are offered with either 0.2mm or 0.3mm nozzles and there is no problem with exchanging of the nozzles.

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They both look like AB airbrushes to me, the one at the top being an old style one and the lower being the type currently offered on ebay. The newer ones have a tiny regulator fitted just below and behind the nozzle.
 
These are of MAR firm and available in Poland. Also offered on ebay.
 
Im a novice modeller, and was a bit scared off by the cost of some airbrushes that I saw. Some are just overpriced, its not funny. I saw one in an otherwise good modelling shop in Canberra. The airbrush was the bees knees, but at $300 AU it was just a ridiculous price.

I was introduced to several cheap single action types which i still have. They are workable, cheap and okay, but the problem is not being able to control the nozzle pressure.

I finished up buying a gun similar to Wurgers 1st photo and buying a cheap Chinese copy modelling air compressor. The all up cost for gun, and compressor lines was $120 (about 75 pounds). Very happy with the results it gives and there is no sign of any wear and tear. These are chinese copies of high quality European guns mostly, but they seem to run fine to me
 
Parsifal, I also went down the same road as you and finished up doing the same thing. I think the cheap airbrushes are the best buy when you consider that airbrushes are pretty delicate things that can be easily damaged, and they lead a hard life with modellers paints. I have found gravity fed to be way more suitable and easier to use than suction fed so now I will always stay with gravity feed anyway. While I didn't have any luck with the syphon versions of these cheapo Chinese airbrushes the gravity fed one I have has been very good. I think the secret with the cheap ones is to live within their limitations when painting with them and to try and keep their insides clear of paints and strong solvents when not in use.
I have just bought a Neo by Iwata airbrush that cost me £50 instead of a cheapo airbrush for £20, but haven't had the time to try it out yet. My hope is that this Neo airbrush will be a compromise between a cheapo airbrush and a genuine Iwata.
 
you do get what you pay for usually, but often the basic kit is enough to equal the skills of the operator. If like me, a person sucks at painting, having the most expensive kit wont really help overcome the operator error.

Ive found having the basic level of kit needed for a dual action airbrush is more than adequate for my skill set
 
In the end I went for a £100 all in set. Glad in didn't spend a fortune as I love using this one and its more than capable of providing what my skill level requires from an airbrush.
 
Case in point to support the above arguments, My Iwata HP-C seems to be wearing out. Thorough cleaning has been done numerous times but I suspect that the O-ring that seals the valve piston from the chamber may have expanded so that when I press down on the valve, there's insufficient spring force to push it back to the closed position quickly. My theory is that there may have been some blow-back of thinners onto the o-ring which has deteriorated it somewhat. When I clean my brush, I blow it into a specially made jar with a filter on top to catch the fumes. I think the filter may be full so the spray may have been forced down into the piston area. Not good but hopefully can be fixed with closer attention.

Just goes to show that the expensive stuff may need early replacement, or at least parts replacement at ridiculous prices.
 
Wojtek - no idea. It was from a local airbrush company. Belts out up to 60psi if needed.
It's of the stop start variety with no air tank but comes with water trap, regulator etc and and a side cup gravity fed airbrush. It's more capable than I am.

Andy - Just like a Ferrari compared to Fiat.

Cheers Chris
 

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