<> **** DONE: 1/48 F4U-7 (BuNo. 33710) - WW1 / WW2 over Water.

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

Thanks all. Got home an hour ago, unwind a bit, catch up with the forum and then nap for a few hours. Brutal week to say the least, spring break-up has started. Frost is coming out of the ground and snow is melting, 1ft. potholes and rivers running down the roads. Anyhoo...I was just down stairs and I caught sight of the Tamiya Corsair I built long ago, wings folded. After a bit I realized that a Corsair doesn't look right with the wings folded. A quick test shows that the wing sections should line up pretty good
 
Yeah, I had the same debate when I built my Tamiya one. Does take a little work on the join but I agree it looks better with the wings down.

Are you on a shorter rotation now Geo? Seems like you are home quicker now.
 
Still 7-7 but when I'm on nights I go in the night I work. When I'm on days I go in the day before to try and get some sleep(never works). Not much off a gluing surface with the wings down so I'm going to see if I can add some plastic card around the inside to get a bigger gluing area
 
One outer wing panel glued on and resting comfortably. I never meant to glue it. I did a dry fit that was held together by tape and the thing kinda locked into place without the added plastic. Not wanting to tempt fate, I ran Tamiya Thin around the seam and let it sit. In the mean time putting some sub assemblies together. The cowl is in 2 pieces...


​
....this allows the flaps to be posed slightly open

​
 
a test fit of the other outer wing panel show a good fit as well so as soon as the glue set, I'll attach it as well. In the meantime I started on the 4 part landing gear.


​
The 2 piece scissors were a right pain in the keester and very time consuming as they are a real tight push fit. My plan of attack was to attach each piece to its corresponding ring. After 3-5 minutes per piece, I then detached them and put them on the correct rings...


​
...I then pivoted them so they attached, added some glue and when that set I glued the ring attachment points.


​
The last piece (E4) fits into a slot and the 2 arms join up to the strut
 
Maybe a length of stretched sprue, or thin plastic rod, rolled in the jaws of a pair of pliers would replicate the springs ?
The grooves in the jaws should impart a pattern on the soft plastic which, when painted and given a darker 'wash' would look close to the appearance of springs in this scale.
I used to use this method to replicate oxygen and similar hoses, with reasonable success.
 
Thanks guys, 25% done. Would have been 50% but in my haste to remove it from my winding jig I stretched half of it out and this crap does not like to be re-compressed...

​
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Similar threads

<> **** FINISHED: 1/48 F4U-7 (BuNo. 33710) - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
Replies
16
Views
3K
T Bolt
  • Sticky
<> **** FINISHED: 1/32 Corsair F4U-1A - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
2
Replies
22
Views
11K
Torch
*** Winners JUDGED COMPETITION GB 33 WW1/ WW2 Over Water
Replies
12
Views
3K
rochie
  • Sticky
  • Poll
**** MEMBERS CHOICE POLL: #33 WW1 / WW2 over Water
Replies
18
Views
3K
turbo
  • Sticky
<> **** FINISHED: 1/48 PBY-5 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
Replies
15
Views
3K
Andy70
A
Menu
Log in
Register