Help! How do you remove glue from clear parts?

[r2800doublewasp]

I was putting in the fuselage windows today on my ju 290 when I accidentally got glue on two of them right before I put them in! Can someone please help as to how to remove the glue?

Much appreciated!

 

[B-17engineer]

Jack, lightly sand the glue off and your will have scrathes. Take tooth paste and rub the window to polish it. Then dip it in future floor wax and your good to go.

 

[Airframes]

That's the way! You might find that toothpaste, which I normally use for this job, is a little on the 'soft' side if the damage is deep. In that case, use 'T-Cut' or the US equivalent (it's a car body colour restorer), or, failing that, a liquid metal polish, as used for polishing brass etc. Whatever is used, ensure it is all polished off and, once the part is clear again, give it a wash, then do the Future. It should shine better than new !

 

[r2800doublewasp]

Thank you guys SO much! Although the window still isnt nearly as clear as before, it looks alot better when put back on to the model. Thanks again for the help!

 

[weinace]

Great replies!

I've added them to my modelling 'data base'!

Thanks for all the help you give members!

Regards,

weinace

 

[B-17engineer]

Jack that may mean you didn't sand the gue off completey. When I do it they looks better than before

 

[drgondog]

sanding with 600 grit (wet) nearly does the job all by itself but the liquid polish definitely finishes to a pure 'clear'..

 

[Wayne Little]

I'd go so far as to use 1200 grade or higher...in the final stage before the polishing commences...

 

[Airframes]

The guys are right. Give it another rub-down, then polish etc. It really should look better than when on the sprue !

 

[r2800doublewasp]

Hmmm...I will probably have to give it another go again... I used 600 and then 1200 grit sandpaper and then I used normal toothpaste and finally Brasso, a brownish metal polish, last time. Is there anything I am doing wrong? And also, how do you know when you have got ALL the glue off after sanding and you are not just sanding the "glass" part?

 

[Airframes]

You'll know when it goes clear again ! It's virtually impossible to just sand off the glue alone, as it will have 'eaten' into the clear plastic. You need to sand it into the plastic, using finer grits progressively, once this is done, to remove the scratches from sanding. You should end up with just fine scratches, making the part look still slightly opaque, but clear overall. This is where the polish (toothpaste etc) is used to remove the final abrasions and make the part clear and fairly shiny. The 'Future' coats (and protects) it, making it really gleam in 'show room' condition.

 

[drgondog]

Hmmm...I will probably have to give it another go again... I used 600 and then 1200 grit sandpaper and then I used normal toothpaste and finally Brasso, a brownish metal polish, last time. Is there anything I am doing wrong? And also, how do you know when you have got ALL the glue off after sanding and you are not just sanding the "glass" part?

600/1200 wet or dry - and wet the sandpaper. Did you wet it it?

 

[Uncle Gus]

Digging this one up from the past....

I recently learned that mineral turpentine is no good for clear plastic parts *facepalm*

Will the method given here work for repairing my mistake as well?

 

[Wurger]

It depends on how deep the turpentine went into the clear polistyrene. If your cockpit conopy became a little bit milky and matt on one side only it may be enough to polish it with an abrasive compound ( e.g the Tamiya Compound Coarse, Fine, Finish ). For polishing you can use a paper towel. If there are damages to the clear surface ( e.g : fingerprints, melted areas etc... sanding is needed too. If the clear part is milky ( white ) entirely there is no way to salvage it rather.
Personally I use an abrasive compound for car bodies and some of felt for polishing. But using of the three Tamiya compounds in the written above order, can result in a very nice effect.