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Very nice build. Beautiful job.I'm in the process of a leisurely build of a Guillow's Lancer balsa flying model. Might not even fly very well when I'm done, but I enjoy the process as a nice change from plastic models. I built a Guillow's Aeronca Champion about three years ago, with pseudo-SE Asian theater USAF livery. Haven't tried to fly it. Both rubber powered. See photos.
I've seen balsa WW2 fighter kits for sale, and wonder about their relative authenticity especially considering my moderate skills. However, it seems to me that the Fieseler Storch would make a reasonably authentic balsa model, since its largely fabric-over-frame construction and appearance is a lot like a balsa and tissue model. One Storch kit I've found is by Dumas. $40 to $50. I'm not ready to make the leap to radio controlled flight. Just enjoy the build.
I'm just looking for thoughts or opinions on balsa WW2 models from the learned crew out there. Please opine.
Thanks in advance
I built a number of Guillows and Comet WWII rubber powered fighters back in the day. (WAY back in the day) If you're a stickler for authenticity you might be a bit disappointed as they don't fly very well without enlarging the tail surfaces somewhat above true scale. Less of an issue with the larger ones. Reynolds numbers, you know. Guillows used to make a line of larger 25-30 inch span rubber powered WWII fighters that were pretty good fliers, but too rich for my pocketbook.I've seen balsa WW2 fighter kits for sale, and wonder about their relative authenticity especially considering my moderate skills.
That is a pretty impressive build.I haven't built one since I was about 10 years old and even then I knew that it didn't look quite like the real thing. The again, if you do work likeSkyediamonds then that can be overcome.
It's a gorgeous model, regardless of "authenticity" If it's 1/12 scale as I read it, it must have a 32", or so, wingspan. I've tried a little bit of R/C flying using one of the relatively inexpensive two-rotor helicopters that have been around, and I gotta admit, I never acquired any "skill" at flying it. Coordinating the throttle stick with the directional stick was very hard for me. If I built a nice flying model like yours, I'd be terrified of crashing it immediately. The concessions to allow flight aren't a concern for me.Balsa models are generally larger than plastics, so take more space when complete. Balsa is usually easier to work than plastic. The basics of references, dimensions and colors are the same regardless of materials. Here are a build sequence of an La-7 built from plans at 1 inch = 1 foot.
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Select reference source. The more of them you look at, the more differences you will find among sources on the same model of plane. I have found, perhaps not factually, that 3views printed from the same country as the actual full scale plane are more accurate. These sources in the first photo had noticeable differences. In the U.S. the governing origanisation for flying scale has two general classes, Sport scale which is judged from 15 feet away, and precision or exact scale where judges closely examine the model with measuring devices comparing with your submitted data. If your building for your own pleasure, only you care how accurate you are.
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As a serious modeler you will never be satisfied with your build because if you judge it as if it were not yours you will see where it could have been better.
Regarding the above, there have to be concessions to allow flight. If you look at the decals you can see the obvious booboo of the kill markings. When making custom decals with decal paper, the instructions say two coats of the spray coating. That had always worked for smaller decals as they are easier to handle wet, but with the larger kill marking piece I put on seven coats thinking to make positioning easier, however that caused a color shift. You can see the pilot decided to recline due to the aluminum seat being too thin after the canopy was in place. The rest of the faults you can find for your self, I'll never tell.
I wondered if those wires sticking out of the wing weren't for control lines. I see three. What does the third one do?I'm the wrong one to ask about R/C because I fly control line exclusively. If you see the wires extending from the left wing tip, they are connected to 60ft cables of .015 diameter and then to a handle which is held. The plane flies in a hemisphere around the pilot. I did not see the value of building a considerably stronger structure (much plywood) and carrying a battery pack, servos, and receiver along. I kid the R/C guys that they fly the box and the box flies the plane and it still flies in circles around them. Also, I never have to walk more than sixty feet to get my model. Those who use electric power have less cleaning to do when they get home but they have to have a larger battery pack. In general, control line is a less expensive way to play.
That's probably how long my control lines were. My P-63 just had two. I knew a kid who had a Cox Stuka. It could drop a bomb. I think that was done with a third control line. Was Thrimble Drome a competitor to Cox? Cox had a Disneyland exhibit when I was there in 1960. Boats, cars, airplanes all buzzing around. Quite a show for a first-grader.Cox powered control line planes are best flown on 35 to 42 foot lines, usually Dacron rather than steel. The third line you noticed is for the throttle. The multi cylinder engines cost in the thousands of dollars.
Thanks again for the chat and good info. Oh, and I'm 68, certainly an old fart.
Never bored.
Welcome to the old farts club, shipmate! You're in good company here.Skiing, music, motorcycling, model building, gardening, and just general fooling around.
I think a Frisbee-chasing heeler could cause a little mayhem, too.I tried building one back in the early '80s and found out that balsa and 3yr old neighbour kids don't mix