Paint questions

[telli51]

I used Tamiya black and semi gloss black for a priming coat on my Tiger I tank. Paint was sticky and hard to apply to model. How do I move forward, Any tips??

 

[fubar57]

Messy. If its dried you could remove it with sandpaper. Others don't like this approach but I use nail polish remover to remove acrylic paint. Add a very little bit to some paper towel and wipe away. It will take a while to remove all the paint but I've done this with three 1:48 fighters. If you think you've added to much nail polish remover, rinse the model under water as it may have a tendency to attack the plastic. Test a small area first

 

[Wurger]

Or just use an acrylic paint remover. You may use either the dedicated Tamiya one or have a look at the nearest paint store.

 

[fubar57]

I wasn't aware that Tamiya made a paint remover so I went to a quick search and found this...

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I guess with any product, test it first

 

[fubar57]

An article about Mean Green...Super CHEAP, ridiculously FAST! Paint remover - FineScale Modeler - Essential magazine for scale model builders, model kit reviews, how-to scale modeling, and scale modeling products

 

[Wurger]

Almost all firms offer a such liquid. Regarding the tests firstly. Of course it is a good solution. God helps those who help themselves.
However I would like to make a focus on the fact that the guy who was complaining the remover ate him the plastic, used it on a toy but not on a model kit that is usually moulded with polystyrene. Heaven knows only what kind of the plastic it was. A couple of my mates here use it with no problems According to my notice all troubles happen when the liquid is used against items it wasn't designed for using with.. So no wonder... I would say.

 

[mikewint]

Rather than these expensive and tiny amounts of name-brand paint removers, I come back to two multi-use items that are inexpensive.
DETTOL antiseptic solution and plain ordinary oven cleaner (avoid the spray-on). Both work very well. The strongly basic oven-type cleaners require lots of rinsing and be careful of getting it on your hands or wear gloves.

 

[Wurger]

Yep.. that's the alternative. Also it can be used a drain cleaner. The warning as above. Glasses and gloves required.

 

[fubar57]

Never heard of Dettol, Mike. Where do you get it, drug store?

 

[fubar57]

Found it in PG...road trip

 

[mikewint]

Glasses

Excellent point which I forgot. One of the main reasons I avoid the sprays. Personally I prefer the DETTOL. 750ml is $14 USD at Walmart. Simple and east to use and excellent on Owies!

 

[fubar57]

Hmmmm....lethal to cane toads. Do you soak the kit for a while or just scrub it on

 

[MIflyer]

WD-40 works good for that. It was not original intended as a lubricant but as a way to get rid of water and other surface contaminants on Atlas ICBM's It contains a cleaning agent as well as mineral spirits.

NOTE: DO NOT USE PB BLASTER for such model cleaning applications. It is much harsher.

 

[mikewint]

Have only used it on smallish parts so far so it had been an over-night soak followed by a toothbrush scrub (good idea to wear gloves) and a through rinseing. Chloroxylenol (chlorinated Xylenol [a solvent]) and Isopropyl alcohol are the active ingredients along with some pine oil and soap. The paint is falling off and a simple rub will get 90% of it off. The brush is for the cracks/crevasses. There is no effect to the plastic itself

 

[fubar57]

While reading up on this, others mention just straight 99% IPA

 

[mikewint]

The 99% stuff is ANHYDROUS. You definitely do NOT want this stuff on your hands and it will self-dilute by taking water out of the air. Rubbing alcohol will not work at all, you need at least the 90%. The biggest drawback to isopropyl is its flammability both of the liquid and its vapor. The flames are blueish and very difficult to see. Like gasoline the vapors are heavier than air and will travel along the floor.
Used to do flame tests by putting various metallic salts into IPA poured into petri-dishes tnen lighting the alcohol. Came to an abrupt stop when vapors spread across the table top and were ignited in one giant WSHOOSH!!!

 

[Crimea_River]

Looks like you tried hand brushing the Tamiya paints. As far as I'm concerned, doing this is only good for very small areas. Air brushing is the way to go.

 

[Airframes]

I agree, I also suspect that the paint wasn't fully stirred before use, which would cause the 'sticky' finish.

 

[mikewint]

wasn't fully stirred before use

Terry, you're the 'Brush Master': It looks to me like it was applied too thickly and not thinned enough? Several light thin coats rather than one heavy coat attempting to cover every mm^2 with paint at one time.

 

[Airframes]

I agree Mike.
If a second, heavy coat is applied immediately over the first, heavy coat, this is the sort of result to expect, especially with acrylics, which, of course, are the work of the Devil, and rank alongside the Wild .... Wil ... that thing !