Plz i need some help i ruined my b29 monogram

[mikewint]

As above, a number of different questions arise and most were asked aboveand answered.
My $.02: For putty to crack it sounds as though you had a large gap to fill. Mayhap a bit more of dry fitting and sanding of the bare plastic could/might narrow the gap to be filled. Next,: Putty fill does not have to be sanded. After filling use a Q-tip dipped in nail polish remover (like Cutex) and rub it across the fill. Don't use a lot of of Cutex and don't let the Q-tip get clogged with putty. Basically putty is really thick paint so use more Q-tips as needed to smooth the fill. Remember nail polish remover is essentially Acetone with will affect the plastic of the model if you use too much. Once smooth allow time for the Cutex to evaporate then perhaps a bit of fine (1200 grit) finish sanding if necessary. There is a tutorial in the modeling section for more detailed instructions.
Rustoleum and such commercial paints are really not formulated for plastic models, stick to MODEL-paints either enamels or acrylics. Rattle can MODEL-lacquers like Tamiya's also work very well as the harsh solvents actually "eat" into the plastics and thus help anchor the paint to the plastic.
Lastly I tend to disagree about Tamiya's masking tape. It Has a very high Tack (stickyness). It is excellent for bare plastic but I've always found that it tends to remove paint as well when removed. You need a LOW tack masking tape for painted areas. If you want to use commercial-type painting-type masking tapes look for tapes marked GENTLE or go to an actual Paint Store and ask. House painter's tape is rated by how many days it can be left up without leaving residue on the surface being masked. It is available in 1-, 3-, 7-, 14-, 30-, and 60-day ratings, with the 7- and 14-day tapes being the most common. The longer-rated tapes are typically less adhesive, and are sold for use on smooth, delicate surfaces such as vinyl wallpaper and recently painted walls.
An alternative to Masking-type tapes is DRAFTING TAPE, it looks similar to ordinary household masking tape, but has a lower tack. It is intended to hold blueprints to a drawing board or light table, and to pull off easily without damaging the drawing.

 

[Airframes]

A quick tip to reduce the tackiness of Tamiya tape, and similar types of tape. Cut the length you need, and then run this between finger and thumb, with a little grip pressure, just enough to allow the tape to move between your finger and thumb.
I normally do this twice, lightly, but if I really want to reduce the tackiness, I do it three or four times.
The tape will still stick, and to remove it, lift an edge, and keep the tape between 45 degrees and vertical to the surface, peeling gently but in one single movement.
Before Tamiya tape came onto the market (similar, 'Kabuti' tapes were used in the graphic arts for many years before this), I used to use clear parcel tape (Sellotape in the UK, 3M Scotch in the USA), and did the same thing. I have very, very rarely experienced paint lifting with any of these tapes, when used as described.
I agree about the Rustoleum paints - they are designed for 'heavy duty' use on outdoor materials, such as metal gates, car wheels etc etc, and are an anti-rust protective coating, far too heavy for model use.

 

[mikewint]

A quick tip to reduce the tackiness of Tamiya tape

Thanks Terry, had not thought of that but will try in the future. I've also used Post-It notes and had some success on flat even surfaces but the adhesive is too low tack to work on curves. Been using Drafting tape lately and I find it works very nicely on painted surfaces.
Tamiya's white tape for curved surfaces also has a nice low tack and I've used it as well

 

[Justine]

Oh wow! Thank you so much for all the info. Yes I had huge gaps to fill. The Bondi putty was so hard to level out. I spent hours and hours putting and sanding .And still there where cracks when I primered .Then I would sand some more and add more primer. Rinse and repeat. Was a nightmare . Unfortunatly I just ordered Tamiya tape damnit . I really have no money left. I ordered a bunch of different sizes .Cost me $25.00 .That's allot for me since I'm unable to work at the moment and bairly have an income . Do you suggest anyway I can use Tamiya tape? If not. Maybe I can return it and get what you suggested

 

[Airframes]

No need to return the Tamiya tape - probably more than 95% of modellers use it, and similar tapes, probably from the same manufacturer, under a different brand name.
Drafting tape and other specialist tapes work fine, but it's extra expense, extra stock lying around, and not really needed.
Heck, I used the clear 'Sellotape' and ordinary decorators masking tape for around 30 years, before Tamiya were even started, without problems !
Use the tips posted above, and you shouldn't have a problem.
I use two sizes, in the 'refill packs', these being 10mm, and, very rarely, the 40mm, for wide areas only, with 10mm holding the edges.
The wide Taimya tapes are a slightly different material, less tack, and designed for covering large areas. If I need narrower lengths, then I lay a piece of 10mm tape on the cutting mat, and cut strips the required length and width.

 

[Justine]

Ok thanks I'll keep the tape lol

 

[Wurger]

Just to show you the process of assembling of cardboard modles. The building of cardboard models isn't very difficult but similar to other kinds of modelling requires some patience and accuracy. Depeding on a model constructiion ( eg. a plane ) it consists of reinforcing parts and covering we call meshes and those reinforcing parts just "skeleton". Actually the reinforcing is a set of bulkheads for a fuselage and aerofoils plus stringers for wings and tails. The meshes are printed as flat parts and need to be shaped and then wrapped around bulkheads ( skeleton ) making sections of the fuselage for example. Wings and tails of small wingspan can be made as one mesh while those of large one can be of two or more meshes. Here a couple of shots .. All reinforcing parts has to be backed with thick cardboard to make them stiff.

 

[Wurger]

The final effect you may see here...

Also you may add some details to the model interior or exterior. Just it is up to you only.

 

[Wurger]

Oh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.

OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.

 

[Justine]

Oh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.

OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.

This may be a stupid beginner question ....I paint the small parts while there still in the mold
But as you probably know when I cut them out there's no paint where it was attached. I usually just dab a lil paint in that area before I apply it. I don't know how else to do it. Also what do you guys use to hold you model up to work and paint..is there something I can buy?

 

[Justine]

The final effect you may see here...

View attachment 485275
View attachment 485276

Also you may add some details to the model interior or exterior. Just it is up to you only.

View attachment 485277

 

[Justine]

Oh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.

OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.

Omg That is so amazing! I never thought that much work went into those. I'm DEFINITELY going to try that. But I'll be here asking allot of questions for sure! Thank you for sharing

 

[Justine]

Oh if you got a reply from me it was ment for another guy. I edited the post .

 

[Wurger]

OK. No problemo.

The painting of small parts in the way you follow is OK. but it is forgotten often that as other parts they may require of some work on. One of a such area is just the place where a part is attached to the sprue. When a part is painted like you said there is no paint when cutting off the part. Unfortunately not always it is possible to cut the part without the trace of the sprue. That's the reason for I don't follow the way. Always cut off parts that I need firstly , work on them ( removing of seams eg.. ) then check on fitting and fit tham to other parts. When it is done I use clothes pins and toothpiks for holding of parts while painting. These flat parts can be kept up with the masking tape. It is useful for painting with a brush, an airbrush or spray cans. The masking tape is just the one for painters.and is suitable for this greatly.. Also you may use pieces of spongue or styrofoam and toothpicks for keeping all parts that have holes eg wheels.

A couple of shots...

 

[Justine]

OK. No problemo.

The painting of small parts in the way you follow is OK. but it is forgotten often that as other parts they may require of some work on. One of a such area is just the place where a part is attached to the sprue. When a part is painted like you said there is no paint when cutting off the part. Unfortunately not always it is possible to cut the part without the trace of the sprue. That's the reason for I don't follow the way. Always cut off parts that I need firstly , work on them ( removing of seams eg.. ) then check on fitting and fit tham to other parts. When it is done I use clothes pins and toothpiks for holding of parts while painting. These flat parts can be kept up with the masking tape. It is useful for painting with a brush, an airbrush or spray cans. The masking tape is just the one for painters.and is suitable for this greatly.. ALso you may use pieces of spongue or styrofoam and toothpick for keeping all parts that have holes eg wheels.

A couple of shots...

View attachment 485291

View attachment 485292

View attachment 485293

View attachment 485294

Oh wow. Thank you!

 

[Wurger]

A large piece of the styrofoam is a great base for holding models at all stages of the painting and decalling and varnishing processes. I use the skewers instead of the toothpick to set the entire model. Here the example.

 

[Justine]

A large piece of the styrofoam is a great base for holding models at all stages of the painting and decalling and varnishing processes. I use the skewers instead of the toothpick to set the entire model. Here the example.

View attachment 485299

View attachment 485300

View attachment 485301

View attachment 485302

Ohhhhh I see..ok but how do you paint underneath? You just flip it around? So you paint underneath first then do the top?

 

[Wurger]

The model is of 1/24 scale and I was forced to use another way to paint the undersides. As you may notice the model was painted overall with the light blue colour firstly. The paint is not only the primer but also the colour of undersides .So my first step was to attach the skwers at the main landing gear slots and the tail one. And then I pressed them into the styrofoam at correct places making the correct setting. Now I could take the model with my hand leaving the wooden sticks pressed into the styrofoam..Then holding the model nose masked with the tape I applied the paint on the undesides and sides partially. Then I put the model on the skwers and finished applying on tops. The first pic in the post #36 is that moment. Then I waited to next day when the paint was cured and applied the another colour of the camo of course masking firstly.

If you would like you may go through my thread for Bf 109E building. I'm sure you can find there someting interesting for you. Here the link...

Airfix 1/24 scale Bf109E.....or a bed of thorns

As you may find the large piece of the styrofoam with a couple of the toothpicks is also good base for transportation of a model.

Btw.. small parts can also be holding while painting with some of plasticine...

Additinally .. there are offered special stands for painting of models but these are the additional costs of course.

 

[Justine]

Thank you so much for helping me. I will definitely check out your link. The plane is beautiful .

 

[Wurger]

Thank you . My pleasure. Here the next modelling stand offered by shops... and for small 1/72 scale models I use a wooden stick or my round jeweller's file put into the hole in the model nose where the prop rotation shaft is attached. It allows me to flip the model around and put away if needed. So I don't need to buy these stands.