TheRealMrEd
Airman 1st Class
- 118
- Aug 2, 2017
Hi, just a few suggestions:
First, look in your area for a 1" wide roll of yellow Shurtape #CP-60 (which stands for 60-day release) masking tape . This is very close to the same type as Tamiya Tape, but much cheaper. Even so, before putting it on the model, rub the tape across your forehead; this will add a touch of skin oil to make the tape even less sticky. The Shurtape also comes in wider rolls, but is more expensive. Usually available through hardware as well as big box stores.
Next, you need to make certain that ALL your materials are compatible. You can intermingle lacquer, enamel and acrylic paints, but you have to know how to do it. I pretty much use only Model Master enamels and Alclad II paints, because they play nice together. I PRIME EVERYTHING, except the clear parts...
I start with Alclad II grey primer, unless I'm looking to paint a natural metal surface, then generally, I'll use a black primer or gloss enamel. I then paint the metallics, let them dry, mask them off, then overshoot the other colors, usually enamel. I use an acrylic topcoat -- usually some sort of Alclad topcoat. With proper drying times, etc. I rarely ever have any paint lift while masking.
I usually hear this problem mentioned more frequently when acrylics are used throughout, but many modelers have overcome these issues. You'll just have to search a while on-line for others' experiences, then pick your options.
As far as putty goes, you may have bought the wrong kind of Bondo. If yours requires mixing a hardener with the base product, you bought the wrong kind for plastic modeling. You want "Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty", used to fill pinholes in regular Bondo, when used for automotive repairs. The correct stuff requires no hardener, and is much easier to sand. and it's much cheaper than Tamiya, on a per-ounce basis! Available at auto parts houses -- an industry standard in the U.S.
I recommend that you just bite the bullet, and start buying the correct items, one thing at a time, as you can afford it; add it to the stash and then store or take care of it properly. Eventually, you'll have what you need, and remember, it will never be cheaper than it is right now! Everything eventually rises in price, so eventually, you'll be modeling for a lot cheaper than younger modelers, at that time. For example, I still have some paints and even decals that I bought in the early 1970's, that I still use from time to time. It always makes me chuckle when I see the old price tags of $.79 - $1.29 on the bottles.
Modeling is a lifetime experience, and while it doesn't hurt at all to experiment, start building for the future.
One more thing, if you screw up a model beyond repair, save all the parts. One day, you'll need that spare engine or wheel for something. I never throw away anything that comes in a model box, INCLUDING the sprues of plastic!
Good luck from a close to ancient modeler...
Ed
First, look in your area for a 1" wide roll of yellow Shurtape #CP-60 (which stands for 60-day release) masking tape . This is very close to the same type as Tamiya Tape, but much cheaper. Even so, before putting it on the model, rub the tape across your forehead; this will add a touch of skin oil to make the tape even less sticky. The Shurtape also comes in wider rolls, but is more expensive. Usually available through hardware as well as big box stores.
Next, you need to make certain that ALL your materials are compatible. You can intermingle lacquer, enamel and acrylic paints, but you have to know how to do it. I pretty much use only Model Master enamels and Alclad II paints, because they play nice together. I PRIME EVERYTHING, except the clear parts...
I start with Alclad II grey primer, unless I'm looking to paint a natural metal surface, then generally, I'll use a black primer or gloss enamel. I then paint the metallics, let them dry, mask them off, then overshoot the other colors, usually enamel. I use an acrylic topcoat -- usually some sort of Alclad topcoat. With proper drying times, etc. I rarely ever have any paint lift while masking.
I usually hear this problem mentioned more frequently when acrylics are used throughout, but many modelers have overcome these issues. You'll just have to search a while on-line for others' experiences, then pick your options.
As far as putty goes, you may have bought the wrong kind of Bondo. If yours requires mixing a hardener with the base product, you bought the wrong kind for plastic modeling. You want "Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty", used to fill pinholes in regular Bondo, when used for automotive repairs. The correct stuff requires no hardener, and is much easier to sand. and it's much cheaper than Tamiya, on a per-ounce basis! Available at auto parts houses -- an industry standard in the U.S.
I recommend that you just bite the bullet, and start buying the correct items, one thing at a time, as you can afford it; add it to the stash and then store or take care of it properly. Eventually, you'll have what you need, and remember, it will never be cheaper than it is right now! Everything eventually rises in price, so eventually, you'll be modeling for a lot cheaper than younger modelers, at that time. For example, I still have some paints and even decals that I bought in the early 1970's, that I still use from time to time. It always makes me chuckle when I see the old price tags of $.79 - $1.29 on the bottles.
Modeling is a lifetime experience, and while it doesn't hurt at all to experiment, start building for the future.
One more thing, if you screw up a model beyond repair, save all the parts. One day, you'll need that spare engine or wheel for something. I never throw away anything that comes in a model box, INCLUDING the sprues of plastic!
Good luck from a close to ancient modeler...
Ed
