Plz i need some help i ruined my b29 monogram

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Justine

Airman 1st Class
112
7
Feb 7, 2018
Ok. This is only my second plane .The first was b17. I didn't research how to build it right So I wanted to build the anola gay. I wanted to make it perfect .I followed a guy on YouTube that built the same model. Anyway everything was going good until I put the wings on and tried to sand in the gaps .I had trouble with this .I never did it before .I would sand then primer .The primer would show cracks that I missed when sanding .I went through this for hours trying to smooth out all the gabs .After my last primer I added the antenas and covered the canopy with clear elmers glue .Also did the same with mufflers. Then sprayed the entire plane chrome .That showed allot of flaws and finger prints .I had to sand some areas again and repaint. Then. For the gray strip area across the wings I painted gray .I did let it dry for 3 days .When I took the tape off around the gray it ripped off the chrome paint around it. So I waited another 3 days and taped the gray and repainted the chrome around it .Days later I peeled the tape off the gray and the tape ripped off the gray paint. It didn't trip it all off but you can see the shades marks .So .I ruined my plane. I did use the wrong shade of gray anyway. I also messed up the engine cover by trying to make paint dry faster by putting it to close to the heater and it melted. I put it on the plane anyway. I worked so hard on this plane. I don't think it can be repaired .It has allot of lawyers of paint. I let it dry for a week and still get finger prints on it .So I guess I used the wrong type of paint. Wrong tape .Wrong putty .Idk .So .Can someone give me a list of the correct items I need to build these models correctly. Maybe send me a link to a store .thank you
 

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What kind of the masking tape did you used? What brand of the chrome and grey colours? What putty?
 
What kind of the masking tape did you used? What brand of the chrome and grey colours? What putty?

I used rustolium chrome metallic. Same for gray primer .The tape I don't know .Its blue
 
OK. So you used the blue tape for painters didn't you. You need the Tamiya masking tape that is dedicated for modelling. The difference is the adhesive that is not so strong as the one of the blue tape. . As a putty I can recommend the Tamiya White Putty. For sanding you need sandpaper of two grades.The first one 800-900 and the second one of 1100-1200 for finishing.

Judging by your wards you followed the incorrect way for preparation and painting process. Also you shouldn't use the rustolium chrome metallic and the grey primer. The paints are offered as a spray in cans. Am I right? These may be good for cars but not models IMHO.
 
Also bondo putty
OK. So you used the blue tape for painters didn't you. You need the Tamiya masking tape that is dedicated for modelling. The difference is the adhesive that is not so strong as the one of the blue tape. . As a putty I can recommend the Tamiya White Putty. For sanding you need sandpaper of two grades.The first one 800-900 and the second one of 1100-1200 for finishing.

Judging by your wards you followed the incorrect way for preparation and painting process. Also you shouldn't use the rustolium chrome metallic and the grey primer. The paints are offered as a spray in cans. Am I right? These may be good for cars but not models IMHO.

Yes it was spray cans. Ok. Is there a way to fix my b29? Also I'm ordering another b17 .Can't afford another b29 yet . Can you tell me were to get those item's? There are no craft shops in my area. Guess I gotta order online ?
 
Looking at you IP I see you come from the USA right? If you do there shouldn't be any troble to find an online shop around. What is your area- town,if I may ask of course?
 
Looking at you IP I see you come from the USA right? If you do there shouldn't be any troble to find an online shop around. What is your area- town,if I may ask of course?

Yes.Thank you.
 
OK... threa are two ways to fix the model. The first one is to wash off the entire paint and the primer from the model. That's quite time consuming way but IMHO that's the best one. The second way I, would suggest , is to sand the model surfaces slightly with the fine sand paper in order to get it matt and smouth.. I mean the one of 1100-1200 grade to remove all these imperfections on there. If you need to use the putty to fill these gaps at the wing roots that's the moment..It seems you don't need to sand the entire model but the wing tops with the fuselage area with the grey only . When sanding is done the model has to be washed up with a soap and warm water to remove the dust and other crumbs. Then re-apply the grey colour. Instead of the rost olium paints I would suggest the Testors Spary cans. But if you want you may stay with these rust olium ones. The grey should be applied on the wing tops in the way it should cover the all wing surface from the leading edge to the trailing one. When cured you have to mask the grey areas there with the Tamiya tape. Having that done you may re-apply the chrome paint but with really very thin layer.. The masking should be removed carefully as soon as you apply the chrome. The reason the first attempt failed, is the thickness of the coat and the paint itself.
 
Hello . You sent me a message about taking the paint off my plane. But I can't read the entire thing .Its not posted on website. It just came to my email . Weird
OK... threa are two ways to fix the model. The first one is to wash off the entire paint and the primer from the model. That's quite time consuming way but IMHO that's the best one. The second way I, would suggest , is to sand the model surfaces slightly with the fine sand paper in order to get it matt and smouth.. I mean the one of 1100-1200 grade to remove all these imperfections on there. If you need to use the putty to fill these gaps at the wing roots that's the moment..It seems you don't need to sand the entire model but the wing tops with the fuselage area with the grey only . When sanding is done the model has to be washed up with a soap and warm water to remove the dust and other crumbs. Then re-apply the grey colour. Instead of the rost olium paints I would suggest the Testors Spary cans. But if you want you may stay with these rust olium ones. The grey should be applied on the wing tops in the way it should cover the all wing surface from the leading edge to the trailing one. When cured you have to mask the grey areas there with the Tamiya tape. Having that done you may re-apply the chrome paint but with really very thin layer.. The masking should be removed carefully as soon as you paint the chrome. The reason you failed for the first attempt , is the thickness of the coat and the paint itself.
Ok thank you
 
Hello . You sent me a message about taking the paint off my plane. But I can't read the entire thing .Its not posted on website. It just came to my email . Weird

Ok thank you


Humm.. strange.. how about now? Can you see my post fully? The quotation in your post seems to be fine and the whole text is quoted.
 
Humm.. strange.. how about now? Can you see my post fully? The quotation in your post seems to be fine and the whole text is quoted.
Yes

Thank you for all your help. I just ordered Tamiya putty, tape and some sandpaper. I looked at the Tamiya paints but for now there to expensive for me at this time .I'm trying to save for airbrush. I do kinda like the rustolium metallic for the b29. Its the cheapest thing and closest I can get to look chrome . I ordered a b17 I'll probably use silver for that. As far as my b29 .I'm not giving up .There are way to many coats on it .I'm gonna first try to sand the imperfections and do more putty work. If I can't make it right that way I'll have to strip off all paint and primer as you suggested . That's not gonna be fun lol .I'll post as I go. I know I'll have more questions
 
OK. However it may be a trouble to remove the rustoilum paint. Usually modellers use different types of painteededs and their removing is more easier. Therefore I suggested the soft sanding. Using the way you don't need to sand down to the bare plastic. Just to make the coat matt and smooth without these imperfections. The kind of colours have to be sprayed with very thin layer. I would say sputtered only. This results in not peeling off. What is more the primer isn't needed. It is enough to wash a model up with the warm water and a dishwashing liquid for instance. This removes the dust , fingerprints etc... Instead of the primer you could spray the grey colour overall and then mask these needed grey areas with the masking tape and then apply the chrome coat. The way would let you save one or more layers of paint wouldn't it?
 
OK. However it may be a trouble to remove the rustoilum paint. Usually modellers use different types of painteededs and their removing is more easier. Therefore I suggested the soft sanding. Using the way you don't need to sand down to the bare plastic. Just to make the coat matt and smooth without these imperfections. The kind of colours have to be sprayed with very thin layer. I would say sputtered only. This results in not peeling off. What is more the primer isn't needed. It is enough to wash a model up with the warm water and a dishwashing liquid for instance. This removes the dust , fingerprints etc... Instead of the primer you could spray the grey colour overall and then mask these needed grey areas with the masking tape and then apply the chrome coat. The way would let you save one or more layers of paint wouldn't it?
Why yes it would ! Lol .I didn't think of it like that .I watched a guy on YouTube it looked like he sprayed it all first then the grey. Also .About liquid masking. I used clear elmers glue via toothpick and worked great. Took allot of time though .I then tried to use it on my exhausts cause I glued them on before painting .I did this cause a suck at glueing and didn't wanna mess up my paint. Well.... It kinda pedaled off but not really...ended up scratching the exhaust paint. Now they gotta be repainted. I can't find good liquid masking anywhere around here so was gonna order some online but Idk. I'm very low on funds since I'm not working right now . I'll just stick to the tape and just use the glue for the clear parts .I also just ordered the crawling on revell site .Thanks for suggestion .That's gonna take awhile to come in .On meantime though I'll resume to try my repairs. Thank you so much :)
 
I ment the helmed glue on the canopy via toothpick.
 
OK Grasped.

Using of the stuff that ,not necessarily intended for modelling, isn't something wrong. Of course a couple of things has to be taken into consideration. For instance, the thickeness of a paint pigment ( granularity ), adhesion and many more. If you are going to use a glue that isn't dedicated for putting plastic parts together you have to check how it can affect the plastic surface. In other words what is the kind of the thinner there. I could mention much more but it would be enough for a quite thick book. :lol.
Also , using the YouTube films is useful or helpful but not always. What could work out for the author might not be successful for followers.
That's a pity you haven't came here and had started a thread before you started painting. It really would allow to avoid the problems you met. So if you are going to stay with the modelling for longer I suggest staying with us here on the forum. We would be happy if you could creat more thered for other models. There is a really nice gang of very skilled guys here you may get advice and help from.

BTW.. here is my old 1/72 scale model of a Tempest V. It was painted with the Humbrol enamels but the primer I used, was the rustoilum kind of paint in spray. I applied the rustoilum aluminium colour and waited two days for curing.Then I starte applying the camouflage. Unfortunately masking tape damaged the primer coat while trying to remove it. Just then entire layer peeled off at the fuselage D-day strips and the horizontal stabilizer.. To fix that I had to sand the damaged areas a little bit to eliminate the "step" between the remaining coat and the bare plastic there. Then I re-applied the aluminium at the damaged areas just sprying a very thin layer and then applied the Humbrol enamels. IMHO the surfaces look quite nice without any trace of the fixing.

Tempest_V_2.jpg


Tempest_MkV_3.jpg


Tempest_V_3a.jpg
 
Wow very nice! I wouldn't be able to do something like that yet...I don't think lol. I want to learn camouflage and weathering when I get more experience and airbrushed .I want to do the Memphis Belle at some point. Before I began my b29 I posted a thread about painting and got a ton of good advice .But I didn't do allot of what I was told mainly because of expense. I was trying to do the plane as cheap as possible .I had that damn blue tape laying around and that's what put the icing on the cake in ruining the plane. I continued do work on the plane without coming here to ask much needed questions. I really appreciate all your help .Since my crawling is not coming for about 4 weeks I'm just
Gonna put the b29 to the side for now. I will probably have more questions as I build the b17 . I should actually just do smaller planes till I get better but damn I really love the bombers. My mother wants me to build her a p51 redtail..I will do that to .But through all this .I'm having a blast! Lol. As far as masking I'll look for the correct stuff to get. Thank u! :)
 
I see and THX for kind words.Oh by the way.. you don't need to quote each my post. Just please post your without this. :)
Unfortunately not always you may avoid costs for the hobby. Most of guys including me keep looking for cheaper stuff e.g a thinner or just a masking tape. Of course there is a such stuff. Unfortunately it may be useful for different works but not for modelling. For instance you used the blue tape. But there is another one ( see the pic below ). It looks almost like the Tamiya tape but its adhesive is a little bit stronger. Additionally it may leave some of the adhesive deposit on a model surface and the tape is thicker what result in being more hard. The Tamiya tape is elastic what allows to string it to all kinds of surface. The same way a putty. if you want to save some money you may use a mix of a grey paint with some of talc powder.. The kind of a putty characterises by an ability of removing its excesses without sanding. It is enough to apply it and then gently clean with a soaked with the paint thinner , cloth leaving the putty in the filled gaps..

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The size of modells isn't a problem of skills but actually of the price.. There are kits of different scales offered. For instance 1/48, 1/32 , 1/24. But the cost may be the reason for giving then up . However for those who can't afford them I would suggest cardboard models. Could you imagine the B-17 or B-29 of the 1/33 scale? But these are offered too. I have seen a couple of them assembled. Really great view for these who like bombers. The cost of a such paper kit is abot 13.5-21 USD dollars. The main advantage is you don't need to paint and apply decals etc.. The main tool reqiured , are scissors. If you don't believe have a look here .. [G] BOEING B-17G Flying Fortress - Wersja do druku and a shot of ready model...

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Here is my 1/33 scale cardboard P-51 Mustang and Su-22M4 till under construction...

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IMG_0078a.jpg
 
Oh how beautiful .Yea I've seen those paper models .I've wondered how the he'll do ya do something like that. Certainly I would like to try sometime. Well now I ordered the right putty I would attempt what you sugested. I was absolutely not happy with the bondo putty. I can't wait to try my new found wisdom on my next plane lol :) I know I'll have more questions as I go. I'm not gonna go forth with something again that I'm not sure of .
 

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