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Thanks Terry, had not thought of that but will try in the future. I've also used Post-It notes and had some success on flat even surfaces but the adhesive is too low tack to work on curves. Been using Drafting tape lately and I find it works very nicely on painted surfaces.A quick tip to reduce the tackiness of Tamiya tape
This may be a stupid beginner question ....I paint the small parts while there still in the moldOh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.
OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.
The final effect you may see here...
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Also you may add some details to the model interior or exterior. Just it is up to you only.
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Omg That is so amazing! I never thought that much work went into those. I'm DEFINITELY going to try that. But I'll be here asking allot of questions for sure! Thank you for sharingOh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.
OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.
Oh wow. Thank you!OK. No problemo.
The painting of small parts in the way you follow is OK. but it is forgotten often that as other parts they may require of some work on. One of a such area is just the place where a part is attached to the sprue. When a part is painted like you said there is no paint when cutting off the part. Unfortunately not always it is possible to cut the part without the trace of the sprue. That's the reason for I don't follow the way. Always cut off parts that I need firstly , work on them ( removing of seams eg.. ) then check on fitting and fit tham to other parts. When it is done I use clothes pins and toothpiks for holding of parts while painting. These flat parts can be kept up with the masking tape. It is useful for painting with a brush, an airbrush or spray cans. The masking tape is just the one for painters.and is suitable for this greatly.. ALso you may use pieces of spongue or styrofoam and toothpick for keeping all parts that have holes eg wheels.
A couple of shots...
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Ohhhhh I see..ok but how do you paint underneath? You just flip it around? So you paint underneath first then do the top?A large piece of the styrofoam is a great base for holding models at all stages of the painting and decalling and varnishing processes. I use the skewers instead of the toothpick to set the entire model. Here the example.
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