Question on the use of Pre-Printed PE parts.

[Airframes]

I've rarely used PE parts, and have yet to use the pre-printed instrument panels from Eduard.
The sets I've recently bought were shown as self-adhesive, but they're not !

Just wondering on the best way to fit the outer dials facia panels to the main instrument panel.
The 'outer' panels are shown as '2' and '4' in the pic below, with the main panel shown as '1'.
I was thinking of using Humbrol Clear Gloss acrylic varnish as an adhesive, as there is no way a tiny spot of CA could fit onto the flat surfaces, without impinging onto the dials.
Also, the clear film, shown as '3', to be sandwiched between the outer and main panels, has the instruments printed onto it, which seems to me, to negate the printing on the main panel, and I think would be a b*gger to line up !
I think I'd rather just assemble the panels, and then use spots of clear in the instrument faces.

Any suggestions, advice or tips gratefully accepted.

 

[fubar57]

Humbrol should work Terry. I've read about and used Future which worked. If I recall, I ran a thin bead of superglue around the edges once everything had dried
Tech Tip: Another Way to Glue Photo-Etched Parts

This article mentions white glue, about half way down...
Best glue for Photo etch? and handling supersmall PE parts. - FineScale Modeler - Essential magazine for scale model builders, model kit reviews, how-to scale modeling, and scale modeling products

 

[mikewint]

Terry don't know about your side of the pond but I've started to use ZAP's Formula 560 Canopy glue and I really like it. It's clear, flexible, fast drying and cleans up with water
In the past I've used Future and also Tamiya's Ultra thin but don't think it would work here

 

[Airframes]

Thanks very much, Geo and Mike.
The Humbrol Clear Fix is similar to the Zap canopy glue, and might work if it can be applied only at the edges, without migrating into the printed areas. It's a touch on the 'heavy' side for such tiny, thin parts, but, if applied thinly, would probably do the job.
PVA might do the trick too, as it dries clear. I'll experiment first, on a part that won't be used on the model.
EDIT:- Forgot to mention, Humbrol Gloss Clear is very similar to the original Johnson's Klear - Future in the USA - so judging by the article posted by Geo, and other info I've seen, it looks like it should work.
Again, I'll experiment before committing anything to the Instrument Panels,

 

[Crimea_River]

Terry, I've used the Future method and it works well. It has 2 advantages: 1 it acts as an adhesive and 2, it creates a seal that enables more Future (or Klear in your case) to be dropped into the dials for the glass. I have managed to use tiny drops of CA applied with a toothpick to attach the parts but without that seal you may lose your instrument glazing attempts as the Klear will seep into the spaces by capillary action and disappear. PVA is actually my preferred method of creating the glass instrument faces as it's thicker and can be built up better than Future or Klear.

The acetate parts are optional if you want to use parts 2 and 4 over the kit supplied panel. In this case you'd attach the acetate to the kit part, previously filed smooth, and cement the PE face over it. I've never used these.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks very much Andy, that clarifies things, and answers the question regarding the clear file too.

 

[Robert Porter]

Cool! I have a similar kit for an upcoming build and this answers all of my, as yet, unasked questions as well!

 

[SANCER]

Very interesting subject, some of the kits that I have in my stock have pieces of PE prepainted. I have not yet armed some with PE like that.
Question: What do the acronyms PVA mean?
I have usually used cyanoacrylate to attach PE parts to plastic, I have not done with future; But it is always good to know options and comments of connoisseurs.
Thank you for such interesting topics, doubts, recommendations and applied experience.

Greetings Friends

 

[Crimea_River]

Polyvinyl Acetate - basically white wood/craft glue like Elmer's, LePages. Note, PVA is NOT good for bonding PE parts to plastic. I suggested it be used to create the glass instrument covers.

 

[SANCER]

Thanks for that quick reply Andy !!
I understand, it's the common white glue. Here I also find the brand Elmer's, I used a brand very popular in Mexico since always !, is RESISTOL and has a variety of types according to the needs, from school to industrial.
The wood target is Resistol 850.
Then I share a photo.

 

[SANCER]

As you mentioned, this one does not work for PE, but in joining transparent parts, dials and details like landing lights, etc., is a good choice.