T Bolt's 1:1 P-47 Cockpit

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Thanks guys. It feels good to be working on this again.

I started another sub assembly. The Curtis electric propeller control box.

Pictures 12 shows the real thing first from the Thunderbolt manual and then from a cockpit shot I found in the internet

Picture 3 shows the material I had to work with. The box its self looks pretty much like a standard electrical box so that's what I'm using. I made the cover plate out of my stock of scrap aluminum. The breaker is real, and the propeller control switch is a real control switch for a Curtis electric propeller I bought when I bought the windscreen.

Picture 4 shows the whole thing test fitted. It will be painted black with white lettering made from decals. Most of the box won't be visible, but the round knock-outs that show will be smoothed flat with Bondo before painting.

Picture 5 shows the position it will be in on the left cockpit side wall.

 
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Here I am on your forum T-Bolt!

It has been a long time since I wanted to come but my bad English made me hesitate
Finally! I found a translator and here I am thus to say to you how much I find your fantastic work!
We have in common it seems to me the love of it legendary P47 Thunderbolt aircraft... The "big ass" of the USAF World war two !

My approach consists in reproducing the cockpit of P47, most faithfully possible, to fly in computerized simulation of flight.
My means are limited enough (a woman, two children and a house to be paid )
then I use at most the "french-D system" which consists in making the maximum with not enough means
I am filled with admiration for the original parts of your cockpit.
As mine is intended for the simulation I try to imitate the real parts to put on them easily in the simulator.

Here is! If you allows it I would from time to time come to make you one hello on your forum.

I would also like to greet the wonderful work of your friends fascinated by warbirds!





 
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Great work again Glenn. Looks like the unit on the airworthy P47 (note modern radio) is a custom-made part too, looking at it's shape. Yours should look the biz once installed.
And welcome to the forum, C6 Pat.
 
More work on the switch panel that ended in disaster.

Picture 1 The aluminum panel sanded smooth and ready for paint.

Picture 2 Painted with white yesterday and the white lines masked.

Picture 3 After spraying the black paint which had a reaction with the white paint acting like paint remover at the top of the panel. I don't know why it happened, both paints were enamel although different manufactures, and the rest of the panel didn't seem to be affected. I am going to attempt to save it by trying another coat of black after the black from tonight has fully cured in a few days. If it doesn't turn out I'll have to strip the whole thing down and start over.

 
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Looking good Glenn. If you want to hook up an amp meter, make sure you hook it up in series, meaning it has be be in line with the circuit. If you hook up an amp meter in parallel, you create a short which can damage the meter, or the power supply, or the stuff you are testing. The very least is that it will trip a breaker, which is the best case scenario, but it's best to be safe with amp meters. If you need clarification, drop me a PM.
 

Thanks Eric, That's exactly what I needed to know!
 
very nice so far, but just 1 question what would happen if you opened the cowl flaps above 225 mph?.
 
Picture of the Switch/Breaker Panel after repainting and removal of masks.
I think I can live with it. There is a line visible at the edge of where the paint lifted off, but after I get all the decals on and the whole thing sprayed with Dull Coat I think most of that won't be noticeable.

 
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Looks great Glenn. If you use a polyurethane 'household' varnish, probably in satin finish, it'll not only give an authentic appearance, but be more scratch-resistant too. You could also apply this via a'full-size' spray gun, if you have access to one.
 
I made up the decal sheet for the switch panel. I have at least 2 of everything in case of mishaps. I still need to clear coat it a couple of times, then comes the tedious job of cutting them all out and applying them to the panel.

 
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Airframes said:
I notice one marked 'Alcohol' - didn't know the P had a drinks dispenser !
Click to expand...
For those long boring escort missions.... Actually it was better known as water injection. There was a tank of a water/alcohol mixture that could be injected into the engine to give something like ten minutes if extra power if the pilot needed it in a dogfight. Weather or not the ground used it for some other purpose beforehand I can't comment on.
 
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