Thinning Acrylics?

[jjp_nl]

I guess I just don't know under which brand-name it's being sold or perhaps it's just not available in my area rather then rules preventing it from being sold. Not sure what the deal is, but what matters is the fact that the Tamiya Thinner works wonders for me. They also sell it in bigger jars (250ml and maybe even bigger) in addition to the small typical Tamiya containers, so I don't have to go out and buy that every other day if I'm in the middle of a project

 

[mikewint]

Different countrys different rules. Around here they all say in large letters RUBBING ALCOHOL 70% BY VOLUME regardless of brand. In hardware, home improvement, paint stores the large cans 4 L probably should say ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL also regardless of brand. Ask someone. Why pay a premium price for the same exact substance?

 

[spanishbuddha]

I am a novice but here is what I have found in both my own experience and my exhaustive search across the web. So with that in mind, please disregard my post in the event of any discrepancies compared to the much more experienced master modelers around here.

I use acrylic paints exclusively. As many mentioned it depends on the brand of paint. Some, such as Vallejo, come ready to paint. Others, such as Tamiya and Model Masters may or may not need thinning. I use the brand name thinner that goes with its paint (i.e. Tamiya thinner for Tamiya paints, Model Masters thinner for Model Masters paints, etc.). I have found that, basically, these thinners are isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) which I suppose you could use as well. I have been admonished for considering using water but really, I don't know.

As for ratio. You typically want something like 50/50. The consistency of milk is what you are looking for. Often, the ratio is a lot less thinner to paint and I think it can even vary with shades. Seems like 'this' shade doesn't require much, if any, thinning compared to 'that' shade. But I also wonder if it has to do with how long the paint was on the shelf.

For me, I spend the few bucks on the appropriate brand thinner and use that for painting. Cleanup is done with rubbing alcohol. Works just as good but might take a hair bit longer and saves a lot of money. I have been using 90% alcohol but imagine lesser concentrations would work.

I know, I know new guy with no experience sure has a lot to say How to thin acrylic paint for airbrushing. I gotta learn to cut it down some........

I have been using a thinner I bought, but it goes pretty fast. What else can you use, can you use straight water?

 

[ThomasP]

FWIW I usually use isopropyl alcohol. The only cautions I would give are

1. Some acrylic blends are 'designed' to work better with a mix of water and alcohol or just plain water.

2. Experiment a lot with different mixes, both to see which mix thins the paint better and which mix works better for the application - ie air brush or bristle brush, spraying larger areas with higher/lower air pressures or fine detail using lower(usually) pressures, are you trying to get a really flat finish or a really high gloss finish, drying times, etc.

3. Some brands and/or specific colours within the brands use significantly different pigment types/materials which can make a big difference on surface textures and drying times.

 

[fubar57]

I found this seven years ago and it works for me. Vallejo Model Color; I've mixed 1:1 with water and it works very well

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Thanks George, this will be a great help.

 

[Wurger]

 

[fubar57]

I've only used the Gunze, Polly, Tamiya, and Vallejo ones so can't vouch for the others. Model Master I have only brush painted straight from the bottle