1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Looking good John.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Ah, sorry John, must have missed that.
Wooden blades wouldn't normally show chipping. I'm not sure about German-made 'Jablo' type props, but certainly British examples had a thin membrane of rubber-like material covering the blade, to prevent moisture and / or rain damage. Any damage to the membrane was either repaired, or the prop replaced and the damaged one refurbished.
Wooden blades wouldn't normally show chipping. I'm not sure about German-made 'Jablo' type props, but certainly British examples had a thin membrane of rubber-like material covering the blade, to prevent moisture and / or rain damage. Any damage to the membrane was either repaired, or the prop replaced and the damaged one refurbished.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Very nicely done, did you freehand draw your spiral mask, or use a french curve?
- Thread starter
- #385
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Arguable. The pictures of wartime Doras that I've seen have shown wear on the prop blades. Whether or not this wear is chipping I cannot say but a little brown discoloration at the leading edge of the prop blades as I have done is a fair depiction in my estimation. I know many favor a paint-it-black-and-call-it done approach when it comes to props and wheels but I like to try go a little beyond that. I hope you don't mind!
Thank you Robert! I tried to use a french curve but wasn't very successful. So I ended up freehanding it instead. The drawn line doesn't have to be exact since it will be the knife cut that will determine the actual spiral edge.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nice work. When I cut my spirals using this method I actually used the French curve as the hard edge to guide the knife.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Of course I don't mind John !
It's your model, and whatever you think is best is therefore right !
As it happens, the brown tone would be about right, as what you see in B&W photos is more likely to be fading and dust wear which, when I've seen it on the real thing, appears as a slightly lighter shade of the base colour, often with a brownish or grey tinge.
Back in the 1980's, I used to sometimes get to fly a Stampe, which had a 'Jablo' prop with the black coating, and the leading edges exhibited similar 'marks' until cleaned. (the rear face of the trailing edges were normally worse, due to more abrasion).
It's your model, and whatever you think is best is therefore right !
As it happens, the brown tone would be about right, as what you see in B&W photos is more likely to be fading and dust wear which, when I've seen it on the real thing, appears as a slightly lighter shade of the base colour, often with a brownish or grey tinge.
Back in the 1980's, I used to sometimes get to fly a Stampe, which had a 'Jablo' prop with the black coating, and the leading edges exhibited similar 'marks' until cleaned. (the rear face of the trailing edges were normally worse, due to more abrasion).
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
What chair you offered us John, with the pros and cons of the spiral, ... that spinner looks great. I already took note for when I find myself with my first spinner with spirals.
Important news for me, to know that the blades of Dora are made of wood, thanks Terry for illustrating.
Todo muy interesante, saludos
Important news for me, to know that the blades of Dora are made of wood, thanks Terry for illustrating.
Todo muy interesante, saludos
- Thread starter
- #389
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
What chair you offered us John, with the pros and cons of the spiral, ... that spinner looks great. I already took note for when I find myself with my first spinner with spirals.
Important news for me, to know that the blades of Dora are made of wood, thanks Terry for illustrating.
Todo muy interesante, saludos
Well Luis, that great looking spinner is no more.
One step forward... two steps back. Or is it two steps forward and one step back? I decided to wipe the spinner clean and try a different style spiral. The tricky thing here is that you don't know how the mask will fit after you cut it. If you try to test it out and have to peel it off, you'll lose some precious adhesion from the tape. That's what happened to me here. The mask lifted in too many spots and the result wasn't very pretty. I didn't even bother trying to touch up this effort. Just wiped it again and stalked out of my work room with hot air coming out of my ears.
After I prepped the spinner for Try #3, I made some progress on the prop blades at least. I ended up giving these suckers THREE passes of salt chip weathering. I intended to do just two but the flat coat went frosty white on me. I saved it by quickly spraying a gloss coat and then a different type of flat (Testors Dullcote vs. Tamiya Clear Flat). It looked like the salt weathering effect was reduced by the gloss/flat routine so I did another round of salt chip weathering. But looking at it now, I think I can see all three layers... pretty cool effect.
I added some scratches using colored pencils to further weather the prop blades.
While the spinner flub was disappointing, I was surprised at how nicely the propeller blades turned out. Not so frustrated now that I've made progress on something.
Crimea_River
Marshal
They do look nice John.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
The props look great! Personally I am planning a trip back in time to meet with the guy that decided spinner stripes were a great idea... and stomp him flat!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Bring back some samples of RLM 81 , 82, and 83 while you're at it.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Shame about the spinner, but I'm sure you'll get it sorted. However, the prop blades look the biz !
Lovely work so far John!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
According to Terry, surely that spinner will be solved; The important thing and that I recognize you, John, is the tenacity and not to give up easily.
The learning here has been great, to face in the future a spinner with spirals, I´m sure that will be easy peasy for you and surely for several of us who follow you in this challenge.
Saludos amigo
The learning here has been great, to face in the future a spinner with spirals, I´m sure that will be easy peasy for you and surely for several of us who follow you in this challenge.
Saludos amigo
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Maybe time to set the spinner aside for a little while John and let the frustrations subside but the prop blades look great! 
- Thread starter
- #398
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments guys! I finally had a few big chunks of time in which I could work undisturbed. When I last left the spinner spiral, I had wiped off attempt #3 and was pretty frustrated. With a calmed mindset, I sat down and cut out another spiral mask.
When I removed the mask from the spinner, I was resigned to yet another failure... lots of overspray from the areas in which the tape lifted. But instead of starting over, I looked at it and decided that it could be cleaned up. It was left to dry overnight.
This morning, I was driven to complete the spinner. I started the corrections toward the base where masking is easier and worked my way toward the more complex curves.
You can see how I have attacked a small area of the spiral with white flexible tape. The smaller curves were masked using cut pieces of masking tape. Thinned white paint is carefully sprayed through the airbrush to the repair areas. It's delicate, subtle work but easier than getting the spiral done in one shot.
The tip of the spinner was worked on in multiple steps, slightly correcting the curvature of the spiral and toggling between white repairs and black repairs.
Finally... the repairs are complete. I think I'm going to stick with this one as I want to move on with this build. I'll give the spinner a coat of clear gloss and then start on the weathering process.
In the meantime, i have attached the spinner backplate onto the hub and have stuck on the propeller blades. They blades are a very tight fit and I may just leave them on without glue.
When I removed the mask from the spinner, I was resigned to yet another failure... lots of overspray from the areas in which the tape lifted. But instead of starting over, I looked at it and decided that it could be cleaned up. It was left to dry overnight.
This morning, I was driven to complete the spinner. I started the corrections toward the base where masking is easier and worked my way toward the more complex curves.
You can see how I have attacked a small area of the spiral with white flexible tape. The smaller curves were masked using cut pieces of masking tape. Thinned white paint is carefully sprayed through the airbrush to the repair areas. It's delicate, subtle work but easier than getting the spiral done in one shot.
The tip of the spinner was worked on in multiple steps, slightly correcting the curvature of the spiral and toggling between white repairs and black repairs.
Finally... the repairs are complete. I think I'm going to stick with this one as I want to move on with this build. I'll give the spinner a coat of clear gloss and then start on the weathering process.
In the meantime, i have attached the spinner backplate onto the hub and have stuck on the propeller blades. They blades are a very tight fit and I may just leave them on without glue.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Very nicely done! That thin bendy tape from Tamiya is very nice to use!
