Nice John.
I have the same cap as the one your wearing
I have the same cap as the one your wearing
1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #602
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Nice! I bought it when we dropped my daughter off at school this summer!Nice John.
I have the same cap as the one your wearing
- Thread starter
- #603
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Here is an update from last week that I forgot to post...
Just trying to wrap up the decaling and some small details before the next big step of weathering. The welle marking and the Werk Number have been added to the port side.
I like how even the small stencils are legible.
The walkway stripe decal has been layed down on top of the wing. Starting to accumulate dust and fingerprints on the surface.
These little things are the landing gear indicators that go on top of the wing. These served as visual confirmation to the pilot that the landing gear was locked in the down position, ready for landing. These were simply cut from a spare PE fret.
I fashioned a couple of tensioners for the aerial. They are wound from thin gauge electrical wire. The pin vise in the background was used to hold the smallest micro drill-bit that I have to serve as the form. I made the spare since they are easily lost. I actually made three but yup, one of them went springing into the twilight zone.
Just trying to wrap up the decaling and some small details before the next big step of weathering. The welle marking and the Werk Number have been added to the port side.
I like how even the small stencils are legible.
The walkway stripe decal has been layed down on top of the wing. Starting to accumulate dust and fingerprints on the surface.
These little things are the landing gear indicators that go on top of the wing. These served as visual confirmation to the pilot that the landing gear was locked in the down position, ready for landing. These were simply cut from a spare PE fret.
I fashioned a couple of tensioners for the aerial. They are wound from thin gauge electrical wire. The pin vise in the background was used to hold the smallest micro drill-bit that I have to serve as the form. I made the spare since they are easily lost. I actually made three but yup, one of them went springing into the twilight zone.
Got mine about 15 years ago in San Francisco when staying with my best friend who lives in Santa Rosa, i have a yellow one with blue writing too
Good stuff John.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Very nice detail work John, love the tensioners! 
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Me too. If I tried that, I'd end up with a cat's cradle of wire, wrapped around my fingers !!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking very good.
- Thread starter
- #610
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys!
Here are some paints that I ordered a while ago that arrived when I was fishing. I wanted to compare them to the older Gunze-Sangyo acrylics that are similar to the Tamiya acrylics that I normally use. Hopefully, they are similar and they also give me another take on the Luftwaffe colors that I can compare to my Tamiya mixes.
I had a small window of opportunity yesterday after dinner so I decided to see if I could address the paint lift issue on the tail ID band. From this angle, you can make out the edges of the removed paint that is bothering me.
I sprayed the port side with Tamiya Clear Flat and determined that the flaws on that side are small enough that they are not noticeable. I have decided to leave this side alone.
On the starboard side, I ratcheted up the removals. The decal was pulled off by masking tape. And then the area was sanded until the edges of the transition were feathered enough not to be noticeable.
The limits of the ID band were masked off. Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner was sprayed onto the repair area. I kept the mix a little thicker than normal so that it would serve as a filler. When dry, I sanded the area again to make sure that no edges were present.
The white area of the band was sprayed on first, followed by the black. After the first coat of white and black, this side was buffed with Micromesh to ensure flatness of the whole area.
The band was given a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss in preparation for the welle decal. This area looks much better now. I'll try and remember to get a shot with a glare reflection to show how smooth it is now. It feels good to have addressed this niggling issue once and for all!
Here are some paints that I ordered a while ago that arrived when I was fishing. I wanted to compare them to the older Gunze-Sangyo acrylics that are similar to the Tamiya acrylics that I normally use. Hopefully, they are similar and they also give me another take on the Luftwaffe colors that I can compare to my Tamiya mixes.
I had a small window of opportunity yesterday after dinner so I decided to see if I could address the paint lift issue on the tail ID band. From this angle, you can make out the edges of the removed paint that is bothering me.
I sprayed the port side with Tamiya Clear Flat and determined that the flaws on that side are small enough that they are not noticeable. I have decided to leave this side alone.
On the starboard side, I ratcheted up the removals. The decal was pulled off by masking tape. And then the area was sanded until the edges of the transition were feathered enough not to be noticeable.
The limits of the ID band were masked off. Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner was sprayed onto the repair area. I kept the mix a little thicker than normal so that it would serve as a filler. When dry, I sanded the area again to make sure that no edges were present.
The white area of the band was sprayed on first, followed by the black. After the first coat of white and black, this side was buffed with Micromesh to ensure flatness of the whole area.
The band was given a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss in preparation for the welle decal. This area looks much better now. I'll try and remember to get a shot with a glare reflection to show how smooth it is now. It feels good to have addressed this niggling issue once and for all!
Lovely work so far John!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Impressive and very didactic example of how to make this type of corrections to errors or defects when painting! 
One question John: that decal that you removed, could you save it? ... If so, what was the procedure you used?
Wow, that would be a very good tip to deal with such situations on our models.
Thanks in advance.
Saludos compadre!!
One question John: that decal that you removed, could you save it? ... If so, what was the procedure you used?
Wow, that would be a very good tip to deal with such situations on our models.
Thanks in advance.
Saludos compadre!!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good work on the repair John.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Yep.
- Thread starter
- #616
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments! Luis: No saving the decal. It had already been secured using the Microsol/Microset process. I used a piece of sticky masking tape and dabbed it onto the decal repeatedly and it came off in lots of little pieces along with the underlying paint. I have spares of this decal so that was also a consideration when I decided to fix this area.
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Well, ... cautious man is worth two!
I'm glad to know and I have my notepad with my sharp pencil, to continue with the lessons.
Saludos al gran pescador
I'm glad to know and I have my notepad with my sharp pencil, to continue with the lessons.
Saludos al gran pescador
- Thread starter
- #618
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I am finishing up the repair area. Here is another view of the repaired area to show how the edges of the former repair are now gone.
I have an extra set of Welle decals ready to go.
The white Welle decal is applied and Microsol is applied. Notice the wrinkling on the edges of the decal as Microsol temporarily softens and distorts the decal. It is important not to touch the decal at this stage and let Microsol do it thing.
After the white Welle is set, I put on the black decal. The decal broke on me during application and drifted apart during the Microsol stage so there is a paint repair that I must perform. It's always SOMETHING! The white around the circular port is just glare and not a decal mishap.
After a bit of careful masking and a well-focused shot with the airbrush, the starboard Welle marking is finished. Hmmm... I still need to add the Hier Aufbocken stencil. Instead of the whole stencil, I've decided to put on just a half to indicate that the black and white ID band was sprayed over the stencil. You can see that on the port side a few posts back.
That pretty much concludes this stage of the build. Finally. Now I can start weathering Black 1.
I have an extra set of Welle decals ready to go.
The white Welle decal is applied and Microsol is applied. Notice the wrinkling on the edges of the decal as Microsol temporarily softens and distorts the decal. It is important not to touch the decal at this stage and let Microsol do it thing.
After the white Welle is set, I put on the black decal. The decal broke on me during application and drifted apart during the Microsol stage so there is a paint repair that I must perform. It's always SOMETHING! The white around the circular port is just glare and not a decal mishap.
After a bit of careful masking and a well-focused shot with the airbrush, the starboard Welle marking is finished. Hmmm... I still need to add the Hier Aufbocken stencil. Instead of the whole stencil, I've decided to put on just a half to indicate that the black and white ID band was sprayed over the stencil. You can see that on the port side a few posts back.
That pretty much concludes this stage of the build. Finally. Now I can start weathering Black 1.
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Es una gran reparación Juan!!, está padrísimo!!
