1/48 A-20G Havoc

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

El Camino? As in the car? If so, what year, what model, and what engine? Also....sorry for the massive distance between the quote and where my reply is.

On a more related note, AWESOME A-20G!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you MacArther. The El Camino is a 86' with a 305 bore 40 over. If your interested send me a PM.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Well, I got the decal scanned, inverted the colors, painted the decal sheet last night and the printer does not like the decal paper and won't print on it.

 

[Airframes]

Have you got the correct decal paper Aaron? There are different papers for ink jet and laser printers. There are also solid white and clear sheets designed to be used as normal decals, without printing, where designs can be drawn and painted if required.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Yeah, I got the ink jet decal paper but where I shot the flat white on it the printer don't like it.

 

[Airframes]

Ah! Now I understand. Yes, the printer will not print onto the paint, which is the reason I mentioned earlier about doing the painting afterwards, not realising there were 100 small bombs to paint!
One way to do it then, although tedious, would be to paint strips of white (for the background) onto the model, add the red(?) decals, clear coat, then, when dry, mask and paint the camouflage colour in between each bomb, Could even be done free hand if the masking is tricky.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I had it backwards in my explanation . The box art shows the mission board properly, but the decal is opposite of the box art. I am looking for some white decal paper at the moment in between putting the other decals on. If I'm not able to get the white paper, I'll try the paint stripes

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Terry, I called Hobby Lobby and they have one pack of white testors decal paper left. I am on my way to get it as soon as I'm done putting the rest of these on.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

AND WE HAVE SUCCESS!!!!!!! Letting the decal ink dry and then I'll LIGHTLY cover it in decal bonder and let that dry. Hopefully the decals will be finished tomorrow.

 

[Airframes]

Good to hear Aaron !
Given that the printing is OK, then leave it a minimum of 15 minutes, until the ink is dry, then spray with a clear gloss. Allow this to dry/harden, for at least 1-3 hours, but preferably, for example, overnight, to be sure that the clear oat has fully cured.
Then, use as normal decals - but be aware that perhaps more attention may be required , watching the water/soaking time, and the application. They tend to be more sensitive, compared to commercial decals, and can curl an fold easily.
Hope this helps.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Terry, I remember now, someone else was saying something about this. I appreciate this very much sir. I will apply it tomorrow and take a photo of the model before applying the dull coat. I applied a light coat of decal bonder to protect the ink from the water also. It looks just like clear to me. Monday I will give it a dull coat and start weathering it Wed. I have a prior engagement on Tue.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Good luck Aaron!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Vic.In the process of putting it on now. Hope it separates like it's suppose to.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Well, it's on there. It's not the best in the world but it's on there, I'm content as long as the Micro Sol does it's job. I'll post some shots in the morning after they've settled out.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Got my fingers crossed for you!

 

[Wayne Little]

Hope it works out too Aaron....

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Pictures when I get back from breakfast.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

And we are a few steps closer yet.

 

[Airframes]

Good work Aaron, it's looking the part now.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Terry, the decal is a little stretched but it'll do.