1:48 Engine Room #3 Battleship USS New Jersey for Permanent Display on Board. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Builder 2010
- Start date
Great work so far!
- Thread starter
- #243
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Added lighting to the last support platform; the evaporator frame. I woke up thinking about how to neatly hide some of the wiring and came up with a scheme to use hollow columns with access ports for the wiring. This will at least hide the wires as they're running down to the deck below. I still have lighting to install on the big steam pipes to illuminate the two cutaway propulsion turbines. Getting wiries down from them won't be as easy, although I may run the circuit with the foil directly.
There is a side benefit in hollowing them out; they won't be as prone to warp. I have some warpage problems with the solid-printed columns. Tubes are always stiffer than solid rod. I may change out some of the others an replace with hollow ones.
I did a light test with the room lights on and the lighting works as designed in illuminating the equipement below. In this case, the lube purifier.
The upper electrical switchgear cleaned up nicely, but I lost one of the very find pull bars. I hope folks don't notice this… Ryan likes how they look. There will be a faux linoleum floor under this equipment. I honestly didn't expect all the details to reproduce as they did.
The weather was lovely today and I did get the hold floors painted. Not glued in place yet, but they will be shortly.
I placed the condenser on the floor just to see how it looked. Looks good… eh? To get this beast installed, I'm thinking that I'm going to have to assemble at least part of this structure in situ because I can't seem to get the two pipes into the flooring due to their opposing angularity.
I'm reaching the point quickly where I have to actually figure out how this 3D puzzle is not only going together, but in such a way as to stay together. I knew when I drew some of the more frail sub-frames. One in particular was the frame that holds the main gauge board. I had removed the inner two H-beam columns which were not clearing the #1 prop shaft. I had to devise a way to support this. The massive HP frame is sitting right there so all I had to do was devise a way to do it. A styrene plate will do the trick. In the 1:1 engine room this platform didn't have any columns so removing two of them wasn't to far fetched. In the 1:1, much of the outer load was supported by the side bulkheads which I'm not modeling. I checked level and it came out really close.
I then glued the light weight frame into the girder on the evapoator frame. I needed to do some minor trimming to give clearance for the H-beam mounting. I also had to set it back a bit so the columns on both platforms aligned and not extending past the model's edge. I added a cross bar between the H-beam columns. They were way too wiggly and weren't holding plumb. This is a result of the very scale-sized I-beams making up the structure.
Just for fun I sat the main gauge board in the approximate location. There will be floor grating coverings all of this area and beyond.
Finally, the next print completed on the Machine are the lower mezzanine elecrical cabinets. These are simpler than the ones above, but they came out as the photos showed. This is getting way too easy. The uncured resin on the surface hides a lot of the detailed beauty, especially that knob on a bracket that sticks out from each cabinet.
Right now I'm designing the escape trunk. There appears to be just one in this engine room. Strangely, the plans show it making a slight dogleg towards the ship's centerline. The bend occurs at the 2nd platform level in the engine room. The entry hatch is at the first platform level right off the lower mezzanine electrical deck. I have to start painting stuff really soon, which I'm looking forward to. The model really doesn't look 'real' until the paint goes on. I have to decide on what to do about the lube oil reservoirs. And I need to reprint the lube oil cooler with some piping going somewhere. And that's it for part creation. That said, I haven't actually counted the number of diamond plate and grating floor panels I will need. I produced some, but will simply create more as I need them. Ah… the benefits of creating your own, on-demand, parts.
There is a side benefit in hollowing them out; they won't be as prone to warp. I have some warpage problems with the solid-printed columns. Tubes are always stiffer than solid rod. I may change out some of the others an replace with hollow ones.
I did a light test with the room lights on and the lighting works as designed in illuminating the equipement below. In this case, the lube purifier.
The upper electrical switchgear cleaned up nicely, but I lost one of the very find pull bars. I hope folks don't notice this… Ryan likes how they look. There will be a faux linoleum floor under this equipment. I honestly didn't expect all the details to reproduce as they did.
The weather was lovely today and I did get the hold floors painted. Not glued in place yet, but they will be shortly.
I placed the condenser on the floor just to see how it looked. Looks good… eh? To get this beast installed, I'm thinking that I'm going to have to assemble at least part of this structure in situ because I can't seem to get the two pipes into the flooring due to their opposing angularity.
I'm reaching the point quickly where I have to actually figure out how this 3D puzzle is not only going together, but in such a way as to stay together. I knew when I drew some of the more frail sub-frames. One in particular was the frame that holds the main gauge board. I had removed the inner two H-beam columns which were not clearing the #1 prop shaft. I had to devise a way to support this. The massive HP frame is sitting right there so all I had to do was devise a way to do it. A styrene plate will do the trick. In the 1:1 engine room this platform didn't have any columns so removing two of them wasn't to far fetched. In the 1:1, much of the outer load was supported by the side bulkheads which I'm not modeling. I checked level and it came out really close.
I then glued the light weight frame into the girder on the evapoator frame. I needed to do some minor trimming to give clearance for the H-beam mounting. I also had to set it back a bit so the columns on both platforms aligned and not extending past the model's edge. I added a cross bar between the H-beam columns. They were way too wiggly and weren't holding plumb. This is a result of the very scale-sized I-beams making up the structure.
Just for fun I sat the main gauge board in the approximate location. There will be floor grating coverings all of this area and beyond.
Finally, the next print completed on the Machine are the lower mezzanine elecrical cabinets. These are simpler than the ones above, but they came out as the photos showed. This is getting way too easy. The uncured resin on the surface hides a lot of the detailed beauty, especially that knob on a bracket that sticks out from each cabinet.
Right now I'm designing the escape trunk. There appears to be just one in this engine room. Strangely, the plans show it making a slight dogleg towards the ship's centerline. The bend occurs at the 2nd platform level in the engine room. The entry hatch is at the first platform level right off the lower mezzanine electrical deck. I have to start painting stuff really soon, which I'm looking forward to. The model really doesn't look 'real' until the paint goes on. I have to decide on what to do about the lube oil reservoirs. And I need to reprint the lube oil cooler with some piping going somewhere. And that's it for part creation. That said, I haven't actually counted the number of diamond plate and grating floor panels I will need. I produced some, but will simply create more as I need them. Ah… the benefits of creating your own, on-demand, parts.
SaparotRob
Unter Gemeine Geschwader Murmeltier XIII
I can't even make my bed.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Magic! 
- Thread starter
- #247
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
I don't think Einstein could either.
The lower Mezzanine Electrical Cabinets came out well and are ready for paint. That handwheel at the bottom is delicate. I printed three units (need two), but broke one of those details in clean up. I have two good ones left and need to be careful with them.
While I was very anxious to get the floors glued down, I realized there's one other detail that's quite obvious when visiting the real space; the two duck unders that permit crew passage athwartship under the two spinning propeller shafts. In addition to the step down into the hull, there are two three-step ladders on each side and a railing system that protects the space. The railing will be the last things I add to the floor.
The starboard side duck under isn't straight. it bends 90º that complicated the build a bit. Using the floor plan I located each prop shaft and note its location on the floor, then I used a square to layout the cuts. While the shafts are traversing the space on an angle, the duck unders are square to the ships bulkheads. There was no floor under them on my model. In the real ship, the 2nd skin buried in the triple bottom probably suffices as the floor. I had to build (old school) styrene assemblies to add floor and, eventually, walls on all sides. I first tried to just wall in the parts that didn't have lattice framing surrounding the opening, but found it wanting. This image shows that problem clearly.
The initial box was only partial.
I went back and retrofitted sides—all reinforced with 0.188" Evergreen Styrene Angle—to fully enclose the space. Lots of precision cuts, but fun.
This view before full enclosure shows how the two steps align.
After enclosure, the space is now shipshape.
The second, Port-side, space was simpler, being straight and only four-sided. Took half the time to build it out.
And from above;
It was warm, not windy so I was able to get the paint back one without delay.
Meanwhile, underneath I was doing some surgery. At first I tried to be cute and just nip away at parts of the lattice that interfered with the duck under boxes,
But after fussing with the fits, I just removed those lattice pieces completely. It was more trouble that it was worth to try and trim it close and it was all invisible. I sprayed the underside of the floor box areas to keep white styrene from showing when folks peered down the holes in the lattice.
Finally, I laid down the copper foil circuit tracks for the main steam pipe LEDs. The current load of these LEDs so minuscule that i have no doubt that cutiing the foil width in half shouldn't affect performance and it enabled me to run the entire curcuit on the bottom of the pipe out of view. I using three LEDs placed in strategic locations over the turbines. With all this light, I better do a good paint job.
The lower Mezzanine Electrical Cabinets came out well and are ready for paint. That handwheel at the bottom is delicate. I printed three units (need two), but broke one of those details in clean up. I have two good ones left and need to be careful with them.
While I was very anxious to get the floors glued down, I realized there's one other detail that's quite obvious when visiting the real space; the two duck unders that permit crew passage athwartship under the two spinning propeller shafts. In addition to the step down into the hull, there are two three-step ladders on each side and a railing system that protects the space. The railing will be the last things I add to the floor.
The starboard side duck under isn't straight. it bends 90º that complicated the build a bit. Using the floor plan I located each prop shaft and note its location on the floor, then I used a square to layout the cuts. While the shafts are traversing the space on an angle, the duck unders are square to the ships bulkheads. There was no floor under them on my model. In the real ship, the 2nd skin buried in the triple bottom probably suffices as the floor. I had to build (old school) styrene assemblies to add floor and, eventually, walls on all sides. I first tried to just wall in the parts that didn't have lattice framing surrounding the opening, but found it wanting. This image shows that problem clearly.
The initial box was only partial.
I went back and retrofitted sides—all reinforced with 0.188" Evergreen Styrene Angle—to fully enclose the space. Lots of precision cuts, but fun.
This view before full enclosure shows how the two steps align.
After enclosure, the space is now shipshape.
The second, Port-side, space was simpler, being straight and only four-sided. Took half the time to build it out.
And from above;
It was warm, not windy so I was able to get the paint back one without delay.
Meanwhile, underneath I was doing some surgery. At first I tried to be cute and just nip away at parts of the lattice that interfered with the duck under boxes,
But after fussing with the fits, I just removed those lattice pieces completely. It was more trouble that it was worth to try and trim it close and it was all invisible. I sprayed the underside of the floor box areas to keep white styrene from showing when folks peered down the holes in the lattice.
Finally, I laid down the copper foil circuit tracks for the main steam pipe LEDs. The current load of these LEDs so minuscule that i have no doubt that cutiing the foil width in half shouldn't affect performance and it enabled me to run the entire curcuit on the bottom of the pipe out of view. I using three LEDs placed in strategic locations over the turbines. With all this light, I better do a good paint job.
Attachments
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Great stuff. These are certainly solid built stair wells.
- Thread starter
- #250
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Quick update: The tubular, resin-printed columns printed perfectly, but they won't work. There's just not enough structural stability in a 4mm resin tube. Good idea, but the wrong material. I just ordered 4mm thin wall brass tubing from Amazon that will work just fine. I'm going to eliminate those cute little gussets at the top. Folks won't notice them gone. If I wanted to be anal about it, I could solder brass gussets on them, but I'm not. I do have a soldering system that could do the job.... I have more important things to do.
Also, a couple of weeks ago I had an "event" in my right eye. It's called an Amaurosis Fugax. It's a transient stroke of the optic nerve that can cause partial blindness lasting a short time. In my case it appears as a small, black Roshach Inkblot Test. It was unnerving and lasted about 5 minutes. A week later I told my son, the ophthalmologist, about it and he named it for me and told me to get it checked immediately. He said it usually occurrs when there is plaque that breaks off from somewhere else and ends up in one of the retinal arteries. It often disappates shortly as mine did, but it portends bad things. It can be a harbinger of a bigger stroke waiting around the corner.
To that end, today I had an echo cardiogram and bi-lateral carotid ultrasound. The result was good for the heart, but my right carotid does have plague, but it is less than 50% occuluded. They don't attempt surgery unless it's above 50%. I will discuss the results with my internist to see what the next steps are. He did double my lipid meds and put me on an 81mg aspirin. I'm already on a blood thinner for AFib. The AFib has nothing to do with this situation. It was good to find the source. Once you know where it is you can do something about it. My son had much more urgency than the ophthalmologist that I saw last week. My internist, on the other hand, was as concerned as my son and was glad I had already seen my cardiologist. Needless to say, it could have been a lot worse.
Have a good weekend. We're expecting a serious line of thunderstorms within the next couple of hours with large hail and tornadoes possible. Wish us luck.
Also, a couple of weeks ago I had an "event" in my right eye. It's called an Amaurosis Fugax. It's a transient stroke of the optic nerve that can cause partial blindness lasting a short time. In my case it appears as a small, black Roshach Inkblot Test. It was unnerving and lasted about 5 minutes. A week later I told my son, the ophthalmologist, about it and he named it for me and told me to get it checked immediately. He said it usually occurrs when there is plaque that breaks off from somewhere else and ends up in one of the retinal arteries. It often disappates shortly as mine did, but it portends bad things. It can be a harbinger of a bigger stroke waiting around the corner.
To that end, today I had an echo cardiogram and bi-lateral carotid ultrasound. The result was good for the heart, but my right carotid does have plague, but it is less than 50% occuluded. They don't attempt surgery unless it's above 50%. I will discuss the results with my internist to see what the next steps are. He did double my lipid meds and put me on an 81mg aspirin. I'm already on a blood thinner for AFib. The AFib has nothing to do with this situation. It was good to find the source. Once you know where it is you can do something about it. My son had much more urgency than the ophthalmologist that I saw last week. My internist, on the other hand, was as concerned as my son and was glad I had already seen my cardiologist. Needless to say, it could have been a lot worse.
Have a good weekend. We're expecting a serious line of thunderstorms within the next couple of hours with large hail and tornadoes possible. Wish us luck.
Excellent work so far!
- Thread starter
- #252
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
So with all the work to do those duck unders, they are completely WRONG! They're on the wrong level. The duck unders are on the 4 foot elevated crew floor, not the hold floor. And they have no walls, just a floor. I travesed those steps, but didn't pay attention to their construction. I asked Ryan the other day to tell me their construction and he told me about no walls. While the construction is now easier by far, it's complicated by having to deal with the flooring while doing it. All the catwalks and flooring represents the most craft intensive aspect of this build and and also the most ambiguous. We're making a visit back to Philly at the end of June and I may take another shot at visiting the engine room to clarify any of the outstanding issues. The model, as best as i can project, won't be done until sometime in the Fall. I was thinking about filling in the openings in the hold floor, but you won't see it so I'm going to leave it alone.
This is how it should look. When you walk down the short ladder you will see the supporting structures holding up the crew floor.
I finished wiring the main steam pipe's LEDs.
I received my micro-LEDs and tried it on the scrap control panel. I figured a way to fish the wires through the slots and out the bottom. That said, I'm rethinking doing on the good one. There right hand slot is very narrow and the wires may not fit. I thought about removing the top, wiring it up and then gluing on a flat piece of styrene. It would be very bright with three LEDs. I may just light up the central fixture and it will light the whole face. That's doable.
I'm also modifying the upper framing that's going to hold up the entry stair. That 3D printed frame is very flimsy and bendy. I was going to solder up a new frame out of brass angle, but reconsidered after finding that it was $8.00 USD for just 12" of the size I needed AND there's only one vendor who makes model-sized brass shapes. There used to be a company in Chicago called Special Shapes, but the're no longer in business. Instead, I have a piece of brazing rod (Sil-fos) that's just the right size to epoxy to the existing frame to reinforce it AND it will provide a solid base to solder the suspension wires that will hold up the catwalk. In the #2 ER, the stairs come down right over the Main Reduction Gear. They don't fasten the catwalk to it, but hang it from the ceiling. I did the callout before changing to reinforcing the existing frame.
This is how it should look. When you walk down the short ladder you will see the supporting structures holding up the crew floor.
I finished wiring the main steam pipe's LEDs.
I received my micro-LEDs and tried it on the scrap control panel. I figured a way to fish the wires through the slots and out the bottom. That said, I'm rethinking doing on the good one. There right hand slot is very narrow and the wires may not fit. I thought about removing the top, wiring it up and then gluing on a flat piece of styrene. It would be very bright with three LEDs. I may just light up the central fixture and it will light the whole face. That's doable.
I'm also modifying the upper framing that's going to hold up the entry stair. That 3D printed frame is very flimsy and bendy. I was going to solder up a new frame out of brass angle, but reconsidered after finding that it was $8.00 USD for just 12" of the size I needed AND there's only one vendor who makes model-sized brass shapes. There used to be a company in Chicago called Special Shapes, but the're no longer in business. Instead, I have a piece of brazing rod (Sil-fos) that's just the right size to epoxy to the existing frame to reinforce it AND it will provide a solid base to solder the suspension wires that will hold up the catwalk. In the #2 ER, the stairs come down right over the Main Reduction Gear. They don't fasten the catwalk to it, but hang it from the ceiling. I did the callout before changing to reinforcing the existing frame.
- Thread starter
- #254
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Instead of building the entire frame out of brass with materials I did not have, I chose to build a sub-frame out of some flat brazing rod stock that was close to the width of the resin i-beams. I have two tools that facilitate these kinds of projects: a fireproof soldering pad that easily accepts pins to hold parts, and an American Beauty Resistence Soldering Unit (RSU) that heats the soldering zone using low voltage/high current to heat just the spot between the electrodes. With it I can solder literally next to a previously soldered joint without re-melting that joint. It is what's used in manufacturing those fancy brass model locomotives.
I also have a MicroMark miniature chop saw with an abrasice cutoff blade that made quick work of cutting the bronze rod with nice square ends.
I used the resin part to position the parts as I pinned them to the solder pad. This image is near the end of the job.
I have the Tweezers handpiece and the single electrode. I have never used the single electrode. It has a carbon contact point and then a large spring clip on the other lead. It's supposed to be used to solder heavier parts, but my unit doesn't have the amperage to really make use of it. The tweezers, on the other hand, are fantastic. You can use them as the two legs of the circuit, as I did when soldering these parts, or as a clamp to hold the parts together while applying current to create the heat. The real benefit is you clamp the parts, hit the trigger, heat and solder, and then release the foot switch while still holding the parts in the tweezers until the solder cools. It does with one hand what three would be needed with a traditional soldering iron. This is the most expensive tool I own, but it's irreplaceable in solding difficult-to-solder asseblies. It came in very handy to solder the power leads to the tracks on my model railroad.
After it was all soldered and cleaned up—sanded some of the high solder joints—I epoxied the frame to the resin frame. It provided the strength I was seeking. It's not perfect, but I was more concerned with strength and a good structure upon which to solder the catwalk hangers.
Underside:
Other odds and ends:
I had to make the PCVC water pipe that I'm using to look like the actual prop shafts. The 1:1 shafts are 32" solid steel with an 8"bore to lighten them a bit. I printed some plugs, epoxied them in place and will sand them off flush with the pipe. I will then fill any remaining gaps and sand again. The shafts will then match the shaft eminating from the main reduction gear.
The last thing I did today was attach the separately printed valve wheels onto the main air ejector print. I realized that I didn't print the steam lines that run to this appliance. I will do that shortly.
I'm designing the entry hatch now that I have the framing on which to fasten it. I'm not sure about the hinging since my photos don't show it.
I also have a MicroMark miniature chop saw with an abrasice cutoff blade that made quick work of cutting the bronze rod with nice square ends.
I used the resin part to position the parts as I pinned them to the solder pad. This image is near the end of the job.
I have the Tweezers handpiece and the single electrode. I have never used the single electrode. It has a carbon contact point and then a large spring clip on the other lead. It's supposed to be used to solder heavier parts, but my unit doesn't have the amperage to really make use of it. The tweezers, on the other hand, are fantastic. You can use them as the two legs of the circuit, as I did when soldering these parts, or as a clamp to hold the parts together while applying current to create the heat. The real benefit is you clamp the parts, hit the trigger, heat and solder, and then release the foot switch while still holding the parts in the tweezers until the solder cools. It does with one hand what three would be needed with a traditional soldering iron. This is the most expensive tool I own, but it's irreplaceable in solding difficult-to-solder asseblies. It came in very handy to solder the power leads to the tracks on my model railroad.
After it was all soldered and cleaned up—sanded some of the high solder joints—I epoxied the frame to the resin frame. It provided the strength I was seeking. It's not perfect, but I was more concerned with strength and a good structure upon which to solder the catwalk hangers.
Underside:
Other odds and ends:
I had to make the PCVC water pipe that I'm using to look like the actual prop shafts. The 1:1 shafts are 32" solid steel with an 8"bore to lighten them a bit. I printed some plugs, epoxied them in place and will sand them off flush with the pipe. I will then fill any remaining gaps and sand again. The shafts will then match the shaft eminating from the main reduction gear.
The last thing I did today was attach the separately printed valve wheels onto the main air ejector print. I realized that I didn't print the steam lines that run to this appliance. I will do that shortly.
I'm designing the entry hatch now that I have the framing on which to fasten it. I'm not sure about the hinging since my photos don't show it.
Excellent work so far!
- Thread starter
- #257
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Had a follow up appointment with my ophthalmologist from the Amaurosis Fugax. Everything looked good. Tomorrow, however, my internist has ordered an angiogram CatScan of my head and neck just to make sure that the plaque in my right carotid is the only thing to worry about. Never had one of these, and I don't know what to think about it. I have no cerebral symptoms at all, and cognitively, as can be seen by what I do in my retirement, isn't showing any signs of trouble either. I'll keey you all informed.
So without any shop work I finished the design of the entry hatch, and sent it to the printer. Right now the printer is making the main steam pipes to the turbo-generators and the main air ejector. The former was a print failure that didn't get redone, and the latter I missed printing at all.
I'm choosing to include more flooring of deck 3 that surrounds the hatch. It lends more context for it and further stiffens that cantilevered system.
Till tomorrow….
So without any shop work I finished the design of the entry hatch, and sent it to the printer. Right now the printer is making the main steam pipes to the turbo-generators and the main air ejector. The former was a print failure that didn't get redone, and the latter I missed printing at all.
I'm choosing to include more flooring of deck 3 that surrounds the hatch. It lends more context for it and further stiffens that cantilevered system.
Till tomorrow….
- Thread starter
- #259
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
The hatch prints came out perfectly. I will have to either cut the girder structure or some of the counter-balance spring so the hatch can settle down. I can cut the girder without problem if I don't cut through the metal sub-structure. My girder structure and the real one are not the same.
If you look closely, the spring is actually fully formed.
I spent some time today replicating the hand-drawn graphic on the main reduction gear. I have to wait until I paint the gray base paint to match that for the decal's background. Other wise I would have to hand trim all the lettering out of the white decal paper. Not going to do that…
The photo shows the first line wrapping over the curve of the housing making it very distorted so I couldn't draw directly over it. I cropped out that part and adjusted its perspective and then drew over that part.
That gray is just an approximation for purposes of this post. When I mix the real gray, I'll finish up the decals. There's also another label on the HP and LP turbines.
If you look closely, the spring is actually fully formed.
I spent some time today replicating the hand-drawn graphic on the main reduction gear. I have to wait until I paint the gray base paint to match that for the decal's background. Other wise I would have to hand trim all the lettering out of the white decal paper. Not going to do that…
The photo shows the first line wrapping over the curve of the housing making it very distorted so I couldn't draw directly over it. I cropped out that part and adjusted its perspective and then drew over that part.
That gray is just an approximation for purposes of this post. When I mix the real gray, I'll finish up the decals. There's also another label on the HP and LP turbines.
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