1/48 Revell Ju-87D...1st build after 30+ years

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The last time I built a model, the hobby was all about clean, crisp, perfect finishes. All the modeling magazines were showing off models that looked fresh off the show room floor. I'd never heard of pre-shading, post-shading, bleaching, etc. and the only people doing weathering were the armor guys building dioramas. Techniques have come and gone, materials have come and gone, as have tools, and even model companies. Things I read about and thought, "Hey, that'd be cool to try!" have long since passed into history...or now there's a specific paint, putty, glue, or aftermarket piece or product that does it instead.

I am pretty happy that most of the "firsts" I'm trying have so far produced good results. Of course that's in large part due to the tools and products now available...even the inexpensive stuff because I've by no means gone out and sunk a ton of money into this (yet!!). I was just happy back in the day if I could get the paint to stick without being too fragile. Using the old Testors 1/4 oz. enamel paints in a Badger 200 siphon feed with mineral spirits as the thinner didn't give the most consistent results. Any time you had to mask a camo pattern or something it was an even bet that most of your previous work would come up with the tape and I was only vaguely aware that you should put a gloss coat down before you put the decals on.

So thanks for the support and kind comments. I'm having fun and hope to continue doing so.​
 
It is good to know of another colleague who returns to the hobby.

You have achieved a very good job so far; We can see that you have the necessary skills and it is a matter of practice to be surprised at what you will be able to do!
You have (we have) a formidable group of advisers and experts that will enjoy with you the trip in your projects. (I say this from experience)
As you say, it is endless the amount of things to practice modeling these days, but little by little you will discover what is going to be useful. The key is to not stop asking whatever it is, you will always have a reply.

Pending what follows.

Saludos desde México
Luis Carlos
 
I have two quick questions. First, is the wheel hub for the tailwheel also gloss black? And second, does anyone have a picture of a D-5 MG-17s in the wings? As I noted, I broke the pieces off the model...and
I'm not going to get fancy replacing them but I figure the least I can do is make them the right length. ​
If the ones on the model are to scale they would have been about 3' long on the real aircraft so I'm wondering if that was more or less accurate. I've looked online and the only place I actually see the MG-17s sticking out is on models...haven't found a picture of an actual Stuka with them.
 
Awesome...thanks George! I'd read it was a 20mm cannon on the D-5 but it seemed too skinny based on the model, especially compared to the 7.92mm mgs I've seen. But I guess those have cooling jackets that make them look fatter. Eyeballing it, it looks like the part of the barrel that shows on the MG151/20 is about 2' long (assuming the mechanic is 5' 6"-ish)...so in 1/48 that's about 1/2", give or take.
 
Actually, those photos raise another question...what color are those bombs?
 
Yep.. here is another diagram.. going from the top ...
1. The Dark Grey bomb for the standard climate before the 1942
2. The Silver bomb for the tropical climate before the 1942.
3. The Sky Blue bomb for the tropical climate after 1942.
4. The Grey-Beige bomb for the standard climate after 1942.

 
So...since the kit is technically a 1943 D-5 version not in the tropics or desert, and the bombs are the 500kg in the center and 50kg on the wings, the color for all 5 should be the Grey-Beige RAL 7027?
 
I think you may follow the colour. I have a look at a couple of pics with the Ju-87 bombs seen. And I have to say that many of them look like the Dark Grey painted ones. I would say that's because most of the pics were takne here in Europe where the climate could be called the standard one. However it is not a rule. Many of the bomb , especially these SC 1000 and SC 1800 seem to be of the Light Blue Sky colours. But if you are going to use the SC 500 and 50 you can use the suggested colour. Here is a nice shot of the SC 500 bomb for a Ju-87D. IMHO the bomb was just of the Grey-Beige colour.



However if you want to be exception in painting you may paint the small 50kg bombs with the Dark Grey colour while the SC 500 you can paint of the Grey-Beige one. But if you are going to be a little bit more exceptional you may paint the SC 500 bomb with two colours. The main bomb body can be of the Dark Grey while the tail can be either of the Blue Sky or Grey-Beige colour. It appears that a such mixture of colours could be because both the main bomb bodies and bomb tails were supplied separately and could be put together later. The colour of the parts depended on the factories where these pieces were made and paints they just had available at that time.. Here is a shot of a such painted SC 500 bomb. Can you see?



To sum up... the colours of the bombs depend on you only.
 
fubar57 said:
Is Grey-Beige RAL 7027 similar to RLM02 Wojtek? They look very close to me
Click to expand...

That's true. Both colours can be found under the name Grau- grey But there is a difference though. The RLM 02 is a grey colour of greenish tinge while the RAL 7027 was called the Snadgrau - sandgrey of the beige hue. The equivalent for the RLM02 in RAL palette could be the RAL 7002.

RAL 7027


RLM 02


RLM02- RAL7002
 
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