- Thread starter
- #21
Still no adapter, being shipped from California. Anyway, here is a question: Should I go straight to the double-action or start first with the single action airbrush? While you ponder that here is a picture of my Talon.
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
General practice with the single action could be useful, to get used to actually spraying, and becoming familiar with grip, and keeping the 'brush 'square on' to the surface being sprayed, rather than 'twisting the wrist', which causes 'feathering' and possibly an uneven finish.
However, the sooner you become accustomed to the 'feel' of the double-action, the sooner you can use it 'live'. It doesn't take long to 'get the hang' of the trigger pressure, spray pattern etc, and the double will allow much more precise control and a smoother spraying action, resulting in a good, clean, even finish.
Get some paper (copier paper or decorator's 'lining' paper, on long rolls, is ideal), and some kiddies liquid water colour paints, and practice the spraying actions, especially fine-line work, when you can then sign your name and draw straight, curved and looped fine lines.
Progress to curved surfaces, using disposable coffee cups, and then repeat this practice with the chosen paint types.
Also, become accustomed to part-stripping and cleaning the 'brush after each use, ensuring any paint is thoroughly rinsed out, and the needle and nozzle are clean and free from any dried pigment.
Keep the 'brush clean and paint/pigment free at all times, and it should last you many years.
However, the sooner you become accustomed to the 'feel' of the double-action, the sooner you can use it 'live'. It doesn't take long to 'get the hang' of the trigger pressure, spray pattern etc, and the double will allow much more precise control and a smoother spraying action, resulting in a good, clean, even finish.
Get some paper (copier paper or decorator's 'lining' paper, on long rolls, is ideal), and some kiddies liquid water colour paints, and practice the spraying actions, especially fine-line work, when you can then sign your name and draw straight, curved and looped fine lines.
Progress to curved surfaces, using disposable coffee cups, and then repeat this practice with the chosen paint types.
Also, become accustomed to part-stripping and cleaning the 'brush after each use, ensuring any paint is thoroughly rinsed out, and the needle and nozzle are clean and free from any dried pigment.
Keep the 'brush clean and paint/pigment free at all times, and it should last you many years.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks Terry!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
You're welcome my friend.
fubar57
General
Nice Jim, can't wait to get started myself. Good tips there Terry.
Geo
Geo
- Thread starter
- #26
Me and you Geo
Good work so far!
- Thread starter
- #28
Adaptors are on Long Island! I expect them at my house either later today or tomorrow the latest. Yeah!
On the down side I think I might have found a potential problem with gluing the Sharpie colored framing to the painted walls. I believe that as the glue spreads when I press them together it MAY transport some of the red dye out with it. Not a good look. May have to seal (with a clearcoat?) at least one side of the frame before gluing it to the wall.
Stay tuned! Things are going to pickup!
On the down side I think I might have found a potential problem with gluing the Sharpie colored framing to the painted walls. I believe that as the glue spreads when I press them together it MAY transport some of the red dye out with it. Not a good look. May have to seal (with a clearcoat?) at least one side of the frame before gluing it to the wall.
Stay tuned! Things are going to pickup!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looking forward to seeing the erection .... er ..... well, you know what I mean !
I've always wanted to build a small section of an airfield, but only got as far as modifying the old Airfix Control Tower to a more authentic appearance. Space considerations have shelved the idea for many years !
I've always wanted to build a small section of an airfield, but only got as far as modifying the old Airfix Control Tower to a more authentic appearance. Space considerations have shelved the idea for many years !
Dogsbody, tut, tut !
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Sorry old chap, it just came out that way, and .. er... well .............
- Thread starter
- #32
Nice! 
Have already started modifying the Airfix Control Tower as well my friend. Got rid of the 1st floor "bump-out" under the balcony and bought a set of HO (1/87) scale stairs. Then like everything else it...just...stopped...
Have already started modifying the Airfix Control Tower as well my friend. Got rid of the 1st floor "bump-out" under the balcony and bought a set of HO (1/87) scale stairs. Then like everything else it...just...stopped...
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, same here. I made an 'overhanging' balcony, and extended the front wall of the upper floor outwards, level with the ground floor. The 'radio shack' on the roof was omitted, and I even fully-fitted out the interior, and opened a couple of windows .... then stopped !
I keep intending to use it in the background of model photos, but that would also mean building the rest of the 'set' to look right. One of these days maybe .....
I keep intending to use it in the background of model photos, but that would also mean building the rest of the 'set' to look right. One of these days maybe .....
- Thread starter
- #34
Adaptor arrived today. A little Teflon tape on the compressor side, tighten the new little do - hickey with an adjustable wrench and bingo! No more excuses for not using my airbrush! (damn)
As a side note, this little attachment (along with one that came with the Bagder) now allows me to use either airbrush at will. (crap)
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
No stopping you now then !
- Thread starter
- #37
Internal frames are all finished. There is none for the front wall. Next up, the actual walls.
fubar57
General
Looking good Jim.
Geo
Geo
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks Geo!
- Thread starter
- #40
Was all set to spray some paint yesterday when two problems popped up. Both of them having to do with the compressor. The first was that the compressor was pumping out air at 15 PSI max no matter how long I let it run! Long story short I ended up removing both fittings between the regulator and the airbrush and re-applied a generous amount of Teflon tape to both of the threads. Problem solved! Needle on gauge was on its way north of 50 PSI before I turned her off! The next problem appears to be a little more nuanced and it has to do with the pressure regulator. For the life of me I can't get the damn thing to set a constant working pressure of 30 PSI. I turn it right, I turn it left, but I see no discernable change in either direction. What the heck am I doing wrong. The instructions that I have from the unit are supper vague, but I managed to find a PDF copy for the updated version of my compressor and it had this to say about the pressure regulator:
"To adjust the output pressure to the airbrush, grasp the black knob on the top of the regulator/water trap and pull up. It will make a click and rise approximately 1/8". The knob will now turn with little resistance. To raise the output pressure, turn the knob clockwise. There is an arrow on the top of the knob indicating direction. To lower the output pressure, turn the knob counter-clockwise. NOTE: If the airbrush is attached to the compressor, the trigger of the airbrush MUST be depressed to bleed off the air in the regulator. Failure to do this will result in the air gauge reading too high until the airbrush trigger is finally depressed. For best results, adjust the final pressure with the airbrush trigger fully depressed. Once the desired reading is attained, push the knob down until it clicks, and locks in place. When you release the airbrush trigger, the needle on the gauge will rise slightly and will return to the correct pressure when the trigger is again depressed."
The regulator in question
Will attempt to try this tonight (if time permits) but I'm not entirely sure I follow. Anyone care to dumb it down for me?
"To adjust the output pressure to the airbrush, grasp the black knob on the top of the regulator/water trap and pull up. It will make a click and rise approximately 1/8". The knob will now turn with little resistance. To raise the output pressure, turn the knob clockwise. There is an arrow on the top of the knob indicating direction. To lower the output pressure, turn the knob counter-clockwise. NOTE: If the airbrush is attached to the compressor, the trigger of the airbrush MUST be depressed to bleed off the air in the regulator. Failure to do this will result in the air gauge reading too high until the airbrush trigger is finally depressed. For best results, adjust the final pressure with the airbrush trigger fully depressed. Once the desired reading is attained, push the knob down until it clicks, and locks in place. When you release the airbrush trigger, the needle on the gauge will rise slightly and will return to the correct pressure when the trigger is again depressed."
The regulator in question
Will attempt to try this tonight (if time permits) but I'm not entirely sure I follow. Anyone care to dumb it down for me?
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