Crimea_River
Marshal
That sucks. Some decals resist this treatment.
1/72Airfix B5N1 Kate torpedo bomber
- Thread starter fastmongrel
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
I nearly drowned the transfers in solvent and overnight they have sort of snugged down. They are just too thick and stiff to give that painted on look. I am thinking of stripping them off and buying some aftermarket products.
Very disappointed with Airfix I used some spare Airfix transfers on my Spitfire Gladiator mash up and they were fine. How can the same manufacturer give us something fine in one box yet so chunky in another box.
Very disappointed with Airfix I used some spare Airfix transfers on my Spitfire Gladiator mash up and they were fine. How can the same manufacturer give us something fine in one box yet so chunky in another box.
- Thread starter
- #43
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
The smaller transfers went on easily but they have lots of visible carrier film.
This orrible thing is one of the decals I didn't use. It seems to be similar material to those thin plastic film bags you get on a roll. It can be scrunched up it's tougher than a bullet proof vest.
This orrible thing is one of the decals I didn't use. It seems to be similar material to those thin plastic film bags you get on a roll. It can be scrunched up it's tougher than a bullet proof vest.
yep seen a few like that, carrier film is not exactly totally transparent either !
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, me too. I had similar decals on my 1/48th Airfix Mosquito XVI.
It will help tremendously, if the matt paint is given a good, gloss clear coat. This will not only improve adhesion of the decal, and allow them to 'bed down', but should eliminate the carrier film too.
The matt surface is trapping air between the surface and the underside of the decal, and hte clear carrier film is then also very visible.
A gloss clear coat will prevent this, and then, once the decals are fully set, a further clear coat will seal them, and a finish coat of the desired type can then be applied - matt, semi matt or whatever is required for the desired finish.
It will help tremendously, if the matt paint is given a good, gloss clear coat. This will not only improve adhesion of the decal, and allow them to 'bed down', but should eliminate the carrier film too.
The matt surface is trapping air between the surface and the underside of the decal, and hte clear carrier film is then also very visible.
A gloss clear coat will prevent this, and then, once the decals are fully set, a further clear coat will seal them, and a finish coat of the desired type can then be applied - matt, semi matt or whatever is required for the desired finish.
- Thread starter
- #46
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
Yes I think I have learnt a lesson today. I have glossed before applying decals before but they were old or short run kits.
I have just looked at the Airfix Zero I built last year and the decals look like they were painted on. I still have the remains of the sheet from the Zero and you can see the difference with the naked eye.
- Thread starter
- #47
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
- Thread starter
- #48
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
This morning I have cleaned off the dried Humbrol Decalfix solution and put a coat of Humbrol Clear on and the decals look a bit better. I will put 2 or 3 more coats on and hopefully the decals will sort of fade into the background.
just noticed your using Vallejo model air to brush paint rather than model colour, is air not a little thin for brush painting or is it ok ?
asking as i use model colour but find model air has more specific colours i could use rather than mixing or going with the closest match i can find.
asking as i use model colour but find model air has more specific colours i could use rather than mixing or going with the closest match i can find.
- Thread starter
- #50
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
Yes I am using Model Air to brush paint. I originally bought a selection of Model Air colours when I bought an airbrush but found when touching up I really liked to brush it. I never could get to liking the airbrush so I stopped using it (sold it on ebay for nearly what I paid) but I had about a dozen Air colours which I wasnt going to waste.
I find the consistency applied neat is about the same as I would thin down my previous Tamiya paints and the colour density is about the same. I much prefer to lay down 3 or 4 thin coats using the biggest brush I can get away with. Drying time is about 10 minutes but I prefer to leave it an hour between coats. You can push it to 20 mins between coats but whilst dry the coat is very soft. Metallics are good but they need 24 hours between coats as they are very soft.
I am finding them very economical to use I put about 4 drops in the paint pan then top up a couple of drops at a time as I use it. Theres virtualy no waste unlike using Tamiya which I always seem to mix up too much. I have a bottle of RAF Dark Earth which so far has been used on 3 fighters and a twin engine bomber/transport theres still about a quarter bottle left.
Might not suit all but I am loving them its a real pleasure to get the magnifying goggles on and grab a hairy stick.
might get a bottle of a suitable colour i need to give them a go.
i love Vallejo model colour and like you could not get away with an airbrush when i tried, much prefere the old fashioned way
thanks
- Thread starter
- #52
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
might get a bottle of a suitable colour i need to give them a go.
i love Vallejo model colour and like you could not get away with an airbrush when i tried, much prefere the old fashioned way
thanks
Hairy sticks of the world unite you have nothing to lose but hours of cleaning an airbrush.
My hairy stick collection
Nice work so far!
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- #55
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
Done but I was a bag of nerves when it came to fix the folding wings. One slip and I would screw up hours of work.
Really nice
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- #58
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
Thanks but next time I do an Airfix kit I will be buying aftermarket transfers.
Lovely work!
fubar57
General
Looks great and happy the decals finally settled down. I've had some luck with stubborn decals using a fine cloth soaked in very hot water and then gently pressed onto the decals
