bdefen
Senior Airman
Got a BMW motorcycle kit with lots of chrome parts. Want to do a concept build in WW2 Wehrmacht colors.
Any easy way to remove chrome plating from styrene plastic model parts?
- Thread starter bdefen
- Start date
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Use this, shown below ( or similar model paint remover)
I've just stripped the chrome plating from some old model car wheels, and it worked very well.
I posted a thread a few days ago, showing an "in use" review, with some advice and tips, but it seems to have disappeared !
However, here's a brief description.
This particular paint remover is a non-toxic, water based gel, easy and safe to use. The instructions suggest leaving it in place for one hour, then scrape / lift the dissolved paint using a scraper.
However, I found that, if left for an hour, the dissolved paint tends to go rather sticky, making it more difficult to remove easily, although it still comes off., and the plastic beneath might be slightly affected too. ( If this happens, let it all "set", and then lightly sand back.).
I found it best to treat small areas, and leave it between 15 to 30 minutes before removing the paint / chrome. The stripper can be "agitated" when on the surface, using an old paint brush to wipe over, lifting the dissolving paint, and this will also show how far the stripper has progressed doing its job.
When done, wipe over with a tissue or old rag, and brush off any flakes, then wash under the tap.
If required, the process can be repeated.
The 1/24th scale wheels I stripped had been painted over the chrome plating, around 40 years ago and the enamel paint, and chrome, came off easily.
I'll try to post some pics a little later, to show the wheels before and after stripping.
EDIT;- I found the "in use" review thread - I posted in the wrong section, it's in the "Weathering Questions and Tutorials" threads.
I've just stripped the chrome plating from some old model car wheels, and it worked very well.
I posted a thread a few days ago, showing an "in use" review, with some advice and tips, but it seems to have disappeared !
However, here's a brief description.
This particular paint remover is a non-toxic, water based gel, easy and safe to use. The instructions suggest leaving it in place for one hour, then scrape / lift the dissolved paint using a scraper.
However, I found that, if left for an hour, the dissolved paint tends to go rather sticky, making it more difficult to remove easily, although it still comes off., and the plastic beneath might be slightly affected too. ( If this happens, let it all "set", and then lightly sand back.).
I found it best to treat small areas, and leave it between 15 to 30 minutes before removing the paint / chrome. The stripper can be "agitated" when on the surface, using an old paint brush to wipe over, lifting the dissolving paint, and this will also show how far the stripper has progressed doing its job.
When done, wipe over with a tissue or old rag, and brush off any flakes, then wash under the tap.
If required, the process can be repeated.
The 1/24th scale wheels I stripped had been painted over the chrome plating, around 40 years ago and the enamel paint, and chrome, came off easily.
I'll try to post some pics a little later, to show the wheels before and after stripping.
EDIT;- I found the "in use" review thread - I posted in the wrong section, it's in the "Weathering Questions and Tutorials" threads.
Last edited:
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Would it not just be easier to paint it with a good primer or will the paint still fleck off?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
As promised, here's the pic of the wheels.
On the left is a wheel that had the spoked hub painted in matt black enamel, over 40 years ago !
On the right, another of the same type of wheel, after using the "Expo" paint remover. The paint and chrome plating was easily removed, even from the recessed moulding of the spokes.
Note that I was more concerned with removing the black paint and the chrome beneath, not being too concerned about the chrome rim, as it was intended to re-paint this chrome anyway. A further, light application of the gel would easily remove this if desired, although the surface is smooth enough to receive paint.
I'm not sure of your location, but I bought this paint remover from Model Hobbies in the UK (around £4.50 for a 50ml bottle), and it's probably available in the USA and Europe. Alternatively there are other strippers, such as that from Revell (four times the price !! ), although some can be rather volatile.
Brake fluid can also be used, although it can be messy and, as with any paint stripper, it's best to test small areas before committing to a "full strip".
The "Expo" product does not produce fumes, does not irritate or burn bare skin, is water based and free of VOC's, so safe and clean to use.
Hope this helps.
On the left is a wheel that had the spoked hub painted in matt black enamel, over 40 years ago !
On the right, another of the same type of wheel, after using the "Expo" paint remover. The paint and chrome plating was easily removed, even from the recessed moulding of the spokes.
Note that I was more concerned with removing the black paint and the chrome beneath, not being too concerned about the chrome rim, as it was intended to re-paint this chrome anyway. A further, light application of the gel would easily remove this if desired, although the surface is smooth enough to receive paint.
I'm not sure of your location, but I bought this paint remover from Model Hobbies in the UK (around £4.50 for a 50ml bottle), and it's probably available in the USA and Europe. Alternatively there are other strippers, such as that from Revell (four times the price !! ), although some can be rather volatile.
Brake fluid can also be used, although it can be messy and, as with any paint stripper, it's best to test small areas before committing to a "full strip".
The "Expo" product does not produce fumes, does not irritate or burn bare skin, is water based and free of VOC's, so safe and clean to use.
Hope this helps.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Just responding to Dave's question.
Painting over chrome plated parts can work to an extent. However, paint adherence is not good, and the surface would need to be lightly sanded and a primer applied first. This can result in the sanded surface showing through, and the plating can, and probably will, flake and crack during sanding.
Being a vet smooth, shiny metal surface, paint is likely to crack and flake off very easily, and it is best to remove the plating.
Attempting to scrape off the chrome invariably leads to a very uneven, patchy surface, with scrape marks both on the remaining chrome, and on the plastic beneath. Therefore, total removal is required, before painting, and using an effective stripper is the best solution.
Painting over chrome plated parts can work to an extent. However, paint adherence is not good, and the surface would need to be lightly sanded and a primer applied first. This can result in the sanded surface showing through, and the plating can, and probably will, flake and crack during sanding.
Being a vet smooth, shiny metal surface, paint is likely to crack and flake off very easily, and it is best to remove the plating.
Attempting to scrape off the chrome invariably leads to a very uneven, patchy surface, with scrape marks both on the remaining chrome, and on the plastic beneath. Therefore, total removal is required, before painting, and using an effective stripper is the best solution.
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Great info! I had not idea you could remove the chrome plating.
- Thread starter
- #7
bdefen
Senior Airman
Thanks to all. I'm in the Western U.S. I thought I had seen something about a homemade chrome remover.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
OK.
The "Expo" paint remover shown is made in the UK, but I'm fairly sure there are outlets in the USA.
If you can't find it, then there will be similar products, and any paint remover that is designed for use on plastic models, particularly for removing enamel paint, should work.
Whatever you finally use though, make sure you test it, and time the "exposure" to the stripper, by trying it on a small, unobtrusive area first. For example, on your subject, perhaps the underside of the motor bike mudguard, which won't be seen under normal viewing conditions
Have a look at on-line model supplies outlets, and I'm sure you'll find something suitable. Some may cost more, but if they do the job, then it's justified.
As we used to say in the photographic trade (before digital photography), "Don't worry about using lots of film if you want a proper job done - it's the cheapest part of the whole process", and the same goes for our hobby. The cost of the kit, accessories and, above all, time and effort, far outweigh any extra needed to be spent on getting the job done right.
If all else fails, normal car brake fluid will work, but again, test it first, checking times and the amount used (only small amounts, applied sparingly, should be used, repeated as needed, rather than "flooding" an area before you have time to peel or scrape off the paint / chrome).
Obviously, this is not designed as a paint stripper, and therefore it is imperative that it is tested, cautiously, on a small, unimportant area (for example, the chrome on the parts sprue), to ascertain how long it takes to work, how much fluid may be needed, and to see what, if any, reaction has with the plastic.
It's possible that, if left too long, brake fluid (and some "safe paint strippers" ) will start to attack the plastic surface. Most of this is superficial, rather like over-sanding, and can be saved by rubbing down with fine wet and dry, used wet. However, it depends on the "strength" of the particular brand of fluid or stripper, and the action it has on a particular coated surface, hence the need for testing.
It's much better to have to repeat the process, removing small areas or layers at a time, than to "overdo" things, removing all the coating in one go, quickly, but also affecting the plastic surface.
The "Expo" paint remover shown is made in the UK, but I'm fairly sure there are outlets in the USA.
If you can't find it, then there will be similar products, and any paint remover that is designed for use on plastic models, particularly for removing enamel paint, should work.
Whatever you finally use though, make sure you test it, and time the "exposure" to the stripper, by trying it on a small, unobtrusive area first. For example, on your subject, perhaps the underside of the motor bike mudguard, which won't be seen under normal viewing conditions
Have a look at on-line model supplies outlets, and I'm sure you'll find something suitable. Some may cost more, but if they do the job, then it's justified.
As we used to say in the photographic trade (before digital photography), "Don't worry about using lots of film if you want a proper job done - it's the cheapest part of the whole process", and the same goes for our hobby. The cost of the kit, accessories and, above all, time and effort, far outweigh any extra needed to be spent on getting the job done right.
If all else fails, normal car brake fluid will work, but again, test it first, checking times and the amount used (only small amounts, applied sparingly, should be used, repeated as needed, rather than "flooding" an area before you have time to peel or scrape off the paint / chrome).
Obviously, this is not designed as a paint stripper, and therefore it is imperative that it is tested, cautiously, on a small, unimportant area (for example, the chrome on the parts sprue), to ascertain how long it takes to work, how much fluid may be needed, and to see what, if any, reaction has with the plastic.
It's possible that, if left too long, brake fluid (and some "safe paint strippers" ) will start to attack the plastic surface. Most of this is superficial, rather like over-sanding, and can be saved by rubbing down with fine wet and dry, used wet. However, it depends on the "strength" of the particular brand of fluid or stripper, and the action it has on a particular coated surface, hence the need for testing.
It's much better to have to repeat the process, removing small areas or layers at a time, than to "overdo" things, removing all the coating in one go, quickly, but also affecting the plastic surface.
I have heard oven cleaner
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, that can work, but not nice to use - look, no paint ........ er, and no skin on my hands either !
The ends justify the means Terry
- Thread starter
- #12
bdefen
Senior Airman
Again, thanks to all.
fubar57
General
Might be useful
- Thread starter
- #14
bdefen
Senior Airman
Great minds think alike!! I had spotted that video just a moment ago. Also others using ordinary 5% household bleach. Thank you, Mr. Fubar57.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Interesting, and works quickly and very efficiently. I'll look out for a similar product here in the UK, as I may have some more chrome parts to strip.
( He could have reduced that video to about three minutes though, if all the unnecessary "waffle" about going to the movies etc was omitted ! ).
( He could have reduced that video to about three minutes though, if all the unnecessary "waffle" about going to the movies etc was omitted ! ).
special ed
2nd Lieutenant
- 5,662
- May 13, 2018
His mother was a woman, therefore he is long winded.
- Thread starter
- #17
bdefen
Senior Airman
I tried the household bleach method this afternoon. Worked great. See photos.
Tools used:
Dr. Frankenstein protective gloves; soaking tray (obtained at local thrift store for $1 - best not to use our kitchen stuff); toothbrush; done in laundry sink to prevent spills, etc.
Bleach is standard Clorox household product sold in U.S.A. grocery stores. 4.5% sodium hypochlorite. Has some kind of thickener added to prevent splashing. I recall bleach in the past was 5.0% sodium hypochlorite.
Before photo shows the chromed parts. Engine is already assembled. A buddy gave me this model kit, along with some other nice 1/9 scale kits: a Kettendrad, a WW2 USA Harley-Davidson, a WW2 Wehrmacht Zundapp sidecar bike; and a WW2 Triumph British Army thumper. The Beemer model is 1/8 scale, and he had assembled the engine before quitting.
After photo shows the now de-chromed parts. The chrome removal took less than five minutes of soaking. I agitated the soaking parts a bit with the toothbrush but no scrubbing was needed. Gave all the parts a good rinsing and they are air-drying now. Some excess glue on the assembled engine appears to have protected a couple small spots of chrome which were not removed. Shouldn't be a problem.
I haven't tested, but one of the YouTube guys said that the bleach doesn't appear to harm or weaken the styrene plastic.
Tools used:
Dr. Frankenstein protective gloves; soaking tray (obtained at local thrift store for $1 - best not to use our kitchen stuff); toothbrush; done in laundry sink to prevent spills, etc.
Bleach is standard Clorox household product sold in U.S.A. grocery stores. 4.5% sodium hypochlorite. Has some kind of thickener added to prevent splashing. I recall bleach in the past was 5.0% sodium hypochlorite.
Before photo shows the chromed parts. Engine is already assembled. A buddy gave me this model kit, along with some other nice 1/9 scale kits: a Kettendrad, a WW2 USA Harley-Davidson, a WW2 Wehrmacht Zundapp sidecar bike; and a WW2 Triumph British Army thumper. The Beemer model is 1/8 scale, and he had assembled the engine before quitting.
After photo shows the now de-chromed parts. The chrome removal took less than five minutes of soaking. I agitated the soaking parts a bit with the toothbrush but no scrubbing was needed. Gave all the parts a good rinsing and they are air-drying now. Some excess glue on the assembled engine appears to have protected a couple small spots of chrome which were not removed. Shouldn't be a problem.
I haven't tested, but one of the YouTube guys said that the bleach doesn't appear to harm or weaken the styrene plastic.
Attachments
fubar57
General
Well done and good to know
- Thread starter
- #19
bdefen
Senior Airman
Thank you. I hope it helps others. Been modeling (this time) for a couple years. Did it as a kid. Now I'm a retired kid of 67, still learning. Discovering the history of my build subjects is as much fun for me as the build itself. Incidentally, I have a BMW R1200 GS motorcycle, as does my buddy who gave me the kit.
fubar57
General
Feel free to post your progress in a Start to Finish thread
