Bucker Bü181 kit help

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Oh.. I have found it finally. Please have a look at my thread about how to make a pilot seat for a model. There is shown the way as well. The only difference is that I used a piece of white plastic for making of the chair. Of course the clear plastic has to be use for a cockpit conopy. But there wouldn't be any trouble with using a clear one too. Actually most of pilot's seats were painted .

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/bu...w-make-your-own-pilots-seat-models-26095.html
 
Thanks to all for the guidence. Ill get it built and painted and then get the canopy sorted.

Cheers Chris
 
Keep in mind i am still an airbrush virgin so it may turn out looking like a bit of a Picasso. The kit is pretty basic and requires a bit of tidying up but goes together well. The only part I think that really lacks detail is the fixed under carriage. I might have a play around and see what I can do.

Cheers Chris
 
It's better to dry-fit the fuselage, rather than building the kit, before making the male mould for the canopy. This will allow the mould to be checked against the fuselage opening, allowing for the thickness of the clear sheet.
Then mould the canopy, trim it, and check fit against the fuselage. Making the canopy first, ensures the model is not damaged whilst checking for fit, and if it has to be re-moulded, smaller or larger, no kit parts, or paintwork, will get damaged during the trial fitting period.
 
Hello, so there is no number system for the decals in the instructions.
There are three sets of crosses to be applied. Two sets the same size and one set smaller.
Which ones go where?



Cheers Chris
 
I would say, these two smallest on the fuselage. These two with the thin white lines on the wing top. And these two with thicker white lines on undersides.
 
Thanks Wojtec, I didn't even realise that the two larger ones were different. Saved the day.

Cheers Chris
 
The effort was in vein. The decals are at least ten years old and haven't survived the application process to tell the tale.
Well known auction site, here I come.

Cheers Chris
 
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Send me a Pm, I think I have decals for this bird (but they might be as old as those ones you have)
 
s1chris said:
The effort was in vein. The decals are at least ten years old and haven't survived the application process to tell the tale.
Well known auction site, here I come.

Cheers Chris
Click to expand...

It has been repeated so many times I was sure you knew about it. All old decal sheets have to be covered with a clear coat in order to prevent from cracking when soaking. Glad Igor can help.
 
Igor, thanks for the very kind offer. I have only managed to destroy one decal and I need a sheet of various sizes and colours anyway so will source locally and save you the hassle of posting. Thanks again.

Wojtec, I'm "new" so to speak to the adult world of building and this is the first non new kit I have had to build so didn't know about the clear coat on the decal sheets so thanks. That's saved me the same problem when I start my Wellington X this week as well.

The only other issue I have has is when I applied the Valejo Matt coat. The plane has gone a kind of frosty shade and then camouflage pattern has lost it's definition. Any tips, ideas? I used life colour paints for the colour though.

The underside (I'm quite happy with)-



Long distance shot (not happy)



First time with an airbrush as well so minus the Matt coat episode I'm confident I can churn out something that is presentable and resembles the real thing.

Cheers Chris
 
I understand you. To be honest I thought about it looking at the decal sheet. But.... so it's my fault as well. Sorry.

As far as the painting. It looks good. However it seems that the planes wore the standard LW two-tone camo scheme consisted of RLM70 and RLM71 on tops and the RLM65 or 76 on undersides. The demarcation lines were strightaways.

Regarding the frosty shade... you can try to apply the Valejo Gloss Coat. It should help and you will get a nice undercoat for decal markings. Then use a mix of the Matt and Gloss Coats ( 3/7 ratio) or just the semi-matt clear coat for the final touch.

BTW What for did you apply the matt coat when decals weren't put on the model yet?
 
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To answer the last question.... I was just to impatient to wait and see the finial result of my first airbrushed model lol.
It will be a few weeks before I get decals so it can stay on that base in the display room for now.

I had copied the box pattern but when I applied the darker colour it all seemed to blend into one as if it wasn't dark enough. I had even added a little black to try and make it stand out more - the masking -



I don't have any Valejo gloss but do have a Tamiya semi clear. Would these two mix together and have the desired result?

All critisim is taken constructively so please fire away.

Cheers Chris
 
The Tamiya semi-clear ?????? rather semi-matt or semi-gloss. If it is the semi-gloss clear you can use that. But it has to be of the same kind like the Valejo matt was. I mean acrylic one I think.

The masking is OK and looks very good. As far as colours are concerned... the RLM70 and the RLM71 weren't too contrastive. In some light conditions planes painted with them could look like being covered with a solid colour. The general rule for painting of models is that the smaller scale of a model the lighter colours should be. As a result we can add some of white to the basic paints. Not too much of course.....
 
You should have a direct 24hour crisis helpline. Premium rate calls and make yourself rich.
You can tell in a bit if a noob to the technical side.

Correct it's Tamiya acrylic semi gloss. I'll give it a little coat with that before applying decals.
What size airbrush so you use for giving an all over coat?

With the case of the colours then I suppose it's correct. The camo is visibly different but just not as obvious as I had expected. When applying the darker colour in future I might try and pre shade the outer edge and then filll in the colour.
I guess that may give me the separation In the colours but not alter the overall appearance of the colour.

They say Rome wasn't built in a day.
 
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Chris, the decals need a gloss coat in order to adhere properly, and prevent the carrier film showing, in the form of 'silvering'.
First, apply a clear gloss coat, and let it dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours. Then apply the decals. Leave them again about 12 to 24 hours, before cleaning off any decal residue, then apply the semi-matt clear coat.
Ensure this is stirred thoroughly before and during use!
The 'frosty' look already experienced is almost certainly due to the varnish not being properly stirred, where the matting agent has not mixed -in fully with the carrier solution, making it dry hazy.
 
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