Can you melt clear styrene and then form it?

[GrauGeist]

Doesn't have to be clear styrene, though.

Like I mentioned earlier, there's all sorts of things found throughout the home that can provide perfect material.

The thick plastic used as "see through" packaging for merchandise boxes would be a good candidate - it's thin and crystal clear. There's also CD and cassette tape cases, which happens to be styrene.

I know that electronic devices (CD players, clocks, etc.) have compatible plastic covers over their displays (sometimes clear, sometimes smoked or off-color) that I've salvaged before junking them out. Small plastic containers sometimes used for holding small hardware, sewing or safety pins and such are also workable...

The list goes on, but you get the idea

 

[Wurger]

Also you may check on my thread about how to make a pilot's seat. Tha way is the same you can use for making clear parts. It is just a matter of the kind of plastic you need to use.

How to make your own pilot's seat for models.

 

[vikingBerserker]

There is also something I bought from my local hobby shop, it was a clear liquid you could brush that dried clear and IIRC could be wet sanded into shape if you built it up enough. Crystal something?

 

[Robert Porter]

You could, of course, mould a lamp cover, using the heat and 'plunge' method, with clear sheet.
It's fairly simple, but the preparation is a bit involved.
The PDF below, which I recently prepared for one of our members for moulding canopy blisters for a large-scale PR Spitfire, shows how it's done.
The balsa wood male mould could be replaced by a mould formed from Milliput, which could be shaped on the wing of the kit, then removed before fully set, an polished when hard.

I love it! Thanks! Have added this PDF to my growing collection of good to know things!

 

[Robert Porter]

Also you may check on my thread about how to make a pilot's seat. Tha way is the same you can use for making clear parts. It is just a matter of the kind of plastic you need to use.

How to make your own pilot's seat for models.

Great info! Thank you. I actually looked at that thread early on when I first joined. Now I see the applicability!

 

[Robert Porter]

There is also something I bought from my local hobby shop, it was a clear liquid you could brush that dried clear and IIRC could be wet sanded into shape if you built it up enough. Crystal something?

I will ask for info next time I am in my LHS, they may know exactly what you are talking about.

 

[Robert Porter]

Have any of you seen and used this? I ordered some to try.

 

[mikewint]

I've used the clear epoxy casting method in the past though not for aircraft parts. We used to pour the material around dead spiders, scorpions, ect. to make displays of the critter that could be viewed from any angle. I was very simple and worked quite well though like all epoxies there is quite an odor involved.
If your going to experiment try the acetone melt and see if the plastic remains clear. Once in the goo stage you've got hours to work it as the acetone slowly evaporates. In about 24hrs there will be a hard outer crust formed.

 

[stona]

It might be possible to form one from clear sheet, or, alternatively, if you have a piece of clear sprue that is thick enough, this can be glued into the recess using poly cement, and then filed and sanded to shape. It can then be polished to a high shine

I understand that the part in question is clear, but for coloured lenses, as in identification or navigation lights, the plastic from coloured toothbrush handles can be used in the same way.
Cheers
Steve

 

[mikewint]

Bondic is just one brand. I've used these UV "glues" for almost a year now. They work great IF you can get the UV light to the "glue".
I've never thought to use it to make small lenses as in the video. I've used it to fix small parts instantly in place without having to clamp, hold in place, etc. while you wait for CA to harden or glues/adhesives to dry. The biggest drawback is getting to the glue with the light so it will not harden under something opaque. I've used it it hold canopies in place as well as canopies with panels that open and in one case hold an entire canopy in the open position.
You can easily find these almost anywhere, such as Walmart in 3sec and 5sec varieties. Also in any "As-Seen-On-TV" store/display

 

[Builder 2010]

Interesting thread! On my Eduard ABM exterior PE fret there are little molds for exterior running lights. You're supposed to heat the clear styrene and push it into the mold, thus creating the landing light lens. The Bondic could be used also, but it would create a flat-topped lens whereas the styrene sprue would probably have a naturally formed curved if you didn't push it in too deeply. I'm interested in that Bondic demo. There are applications for it and I may spring for it.

 

[Robert Porter]

Interesting thread! On my Eduard ABM exterior PE fret there are little molds for exterior running lights. You're supposed to heat the clear styrene and push it into the mold, thus creating the landing light lens. The Bondic could be used also, but it would create a flat-topped lens whereas the styrene sprue would probably have a naturally formed curved if you didn't push it in too deeply. I'm interested in that Bondic demo. There are applications for it and I may spring for it.

According to what I have read, surface tension, depending on the size of course, will naturally dome the Bondic when sparingly applied. Mine has shipped and should be here soon! I will give it a try and see how it goes. That is the specific purpose I bought it for, not as a bonding agent.

 

[Airframes]

'Domed' lamps can also be made using PVA adhesive, or the same stuff in small bottles, sold as Micro Kristal Klear.
Pour a small drop onto grease-proof baking paper and allow to set. It will set clear, in a slight dome shape, depending on the 'depth' of the drop poured.
Controlling the dimensions only takes a few attempts, and it's fairly quick and easy.
Once set, lift it off the paper carefully, with the edge of a scalpel blade, and place into the lamp recess. Add a tiny amount of PVA around the edge, to hold it, applied off the tip of a needle or pin. This may cloud the 'lens' initially, but, once set, it will clear again.
Of course, the PVA can be used directly in recessed 'lamp housings', such as those drilled shallowly into plastic. Just place a drop into the recess, again off the tip of a cocktail stick, needle or pin, and then tease the drop upwards. As it sets, it'll shrink back, creating a shallow dome.

 

[mikewint]

Just a quick note on Terry's post: PVA or PolyVinyl Acetate is better known here in the colonies as ELMER'S GLUE ALL. Technically, Elmer's Glue-All is a "PVA-based glue", but it's basically like all regular PVA glues. There isn't much difference between Elmer's and the regular PVA adhesives. Elmer's Glue-All was probably modified from regular PVA glues to enhance its properties , i.e.: strength, tackiness, viscosity, odor, ease of use, and safety. Elmer's was made mildly acidic to enable it to bond strongly with cellulose (paper). Elmer's Glue-All is opaque white in liquid form, but it's ~99% clear when dry. The clouding is barely noticeable when completely dry.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks Mike, I couldn't remember the name of the popular brand in the USA, so you've answered that one.

 

[mikewint]

Elmer's is probably the most recognized brand and it's been around forever. It tends to be thought of as a "kiddies" glue because of its non-toxic, non-harmful fumes, clean-up-able with water non-messyness. The only drawback is the long dry times. Deep layers take a long time as the water has to make it through the dry upper layers so in effect the longer it dries the longer it takes to dry.
ALSO, as I found out the hard way (I made a balsa wood BOAT!! using Elmers) it is not waterproof even when dry.
The long string-like PVA molecules can be cross-linked together with BORAX (the laundry stuff). PVA (Elmer's glue) plus Borax equals SLIME. The stuff they used to sell in little plastic eggs (for the oldtimers)

 

[Robert Porter]

So, I wanted to share my experiments and results. I can say that it is easily possible to melt and reform styrene into useful shapes etc. I tried three different methods.

Method One, slowly heating the styrene in water on the stove, checking frequently to see if it was "soft" once it did reach that point I reduced the heat and let it continue to warm. I melted the sprue trees from 2 kits into a soft blob that stayed malleable for about 5 or 6 minutes before hardening too much to work. Could be great for creating smaller pieces to fill gaps act as shims etc.

Method Two, I placed a couple of sprue trees into a jar filled with full strength acetone I acquired from the hardware store. Not a good idea, the styrene basically dissolved. I left the jar open overnight and added water to tone it down and most of the styrene did precipitate but it was pretty messy.

Method Three, I repeated method two but with nail polish remover acetone. This worked really well but took about 8 hours to render the sprue trees into a runny blob on the bottom of the jar. However that blob remained workable for over an hour. In fact it took almost 24 hours for the blob to harden back up completely.

I did try clear styrene and it did not remain clear. It crazed and clouded almost immediately in all 3 methods and it remained translucent but not transparent.

So in short, yes you can melt and reform styrene in a number of ways, but clear styrene will not stay clear in any method I have found. That said it certainly shows you can use the "melted" styrene particularly when using nail polish remover, to shape new parts or fill gaps and seams etc. I made a mold of a horizontal stabilizer off my B-17G and was able to press the melted styrene into it and create a duplicate piece with most of the detail of the original. However it sure looked funny compared to the pieces in the kit.

 

[Wurger]

Therefore niether the acetone nor the hot water should be use for melting of the clear styrene. These agents always make it a little bit "milky". If you want to shape a such clear part you have to use either the hot air stream or hot oil ( it can be a cooking oil ).

 

[Airframes]

Yep, or, as described in the PDF on moulding clear sheet, use a heat source, such as a cooker grill or hob.

 

[Robert Porter]

Planning on trying the hot oil method next but remember my goal was not to use sheet but to recycle clear sprue into sheet or other shapes and retain the clear nature. Which from all that I have read is just not possible as the process of melting and then reforming clear sprue renders it less than clear. However I am sure there is some way to do it short of the same methods used in the original injection molding process. But several folks on here have pointed out there are other sources of moldable clear product that are available for a reasonable cost.