Cement? Brand and type
- Thread starter Ralph Haus
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onetenor
Recruit
For plastics I use Plastic Magic. It is a liquid adhesive which sticks any plastic I've tried it on .Even the slightly soft to the touch but is really hard stuff. I can't really describe it or name it.It is often used on switches etc used in equipment used in kitchens and bathrooms. odd stuff but PM is the only glue that will stick it I use PVA and aliphatic on woods of all types.Lately started using Gorilla Glue which is great at gap filling but care is needed it doesn't push apart the joint as it expands.Also a contact adhesive that was/is in a huge screw capped tube called Flash Bonder.Must get a new one this one almost finished.And i still use balsa cement.
TheRealMrEd
Airman 1st Class
- 114
- Aug 2, 2017
I use an old standby, Weld-On #3. used to be the go to liquid cement before Abroid. Available on-line thru Amazon (and elsewhere cheaper), a quart or pint size will save a lot of money over the 2-oz bottle hobby sizes. Try it, you';; like it!
Ed
Ed
onetenor
Recruit
Did I mention E6000. Looks .smells,and strings exactly like balsa cement. Dries like it too. "If it looks like a duck --- Etc etc"
onetenor
Recruit
Mr Ed did you mean AMBROID ?
TheRealMrEd
Airman 1st Class
- 114
- Aug 2, 2017
Yes, Ambroid made a dynamite liquid glue for a while, called "Ambroid Pro Weld" -- not to be confused with the old Ambroid orange cement that everyone used to use for Balsa stick and tissue models.
Ed
N4521U
Colonel
I've just come back to these threads.
I've made a complete turnaround on glues.
Revell Contacta Professional, boy does it grip!!!!!! Big sections, wings fuselage.
Tamiya Extra Thin in the green labeled bottle. Seeps into seams you don't want large amounts of surface cement oosing out on to. Hold them together, drop some on the seam with the brush, sets in just a few minuts. Bonds like the devil himself!!!!
I've made a complete turnaround on glues.
Revell Contacta Professional, boy does it grip!!!!!! Big sections, wings fuselage.
Tamiya Extra Thin in the green labeled bottle. Seeps into seams you don't want large amounts of surface cement oosing out on to. Hold them together, drop some on the seam with the brush, sets in just a few minuts. Bonds like the devil himself!!!!
MIflyer
1st Lieutenant
Oh, I have had a real time with finding suitable cement building a Squadron Haunebu II. Testors tube cement simply did not hack it. It does NOT dissolve the plastic like the old stuff used to - it just glues it together. And then it pops loose. I mainly used gel type Superglue - the only thing that would work well on that plastic. I bought some Testors liquid glue
E6000 is good for some things. I used it a bit and in one case was relieved that I was able to cut it loose and then grind it down with a Dremal sanding wheel. BUT do not try to use it to glue the soles back on your tennis shoes - it will not last.
E6000 is good for some things. I used it a bit and in one case was relieved that I was able to cut it loose and then grind it down with a Dremal sanding wheel. BUT do not try to use it to glue the soles back on your tennis shoes - it will not last.
mikewint
Captain
YES, YES, and YES again. Fantastic stuff and a plastic melter beyond compare. So your parts are welded together. Only drawback is the high vapor pressure so does not work well as the parts get larger.
Other than that I can't remember the last time I used tube-type glues. After all the anti-sniffing formula changes it became terrible stuff to work with. I use Insta-cure Gap-filling medium cyanoacrylate. Supposed to cure in 10-15 sec but takes longer so plenty of open time to make adjustments if necessary. Buy small (1 oz) bottles because it will gel over time. The Super-thin variety works well but is VERY VERY thin and runny so a very tiny opening in the tip and very careful application along the seam between two parts. Capillary action will draw it right in and it will hold after a minute or so. It is not a plastic melter like the Tamiya. Full strength after a hour. You just cannot put it on one part and then put the two parts together it's just too runny
N4521U
Colonel
So using Revelle, the bloody tube sits at an angle is I find difficult to open and closing the sheeth.
So I came up with my own holder, to stand upright.
Easier to remove and return to the stand and replace the cover.
As supplied by Revelle! ACK...
My wife makes our own Cambucha, uses teabags from a plastic bottle.
Used one of the tops, and a plastic lid from somewhere.
Cut a piece out of this to make the Revelle stand in one place.
Used double stick thick tape to hold it in place in the lid.
And Bob's your uncle.
Never have to search or fumble opening or closing!
So I came up with my own holder, to stand upright.
Easier to remove and return to the stand and replace the cover.
As supplied by Revelle! ACK...
My wife makes our own Cambucha, uses teabags from a plastic bottle.
Used one of the tops, and a plastic lid from somewhere.
Cut a piece out of this to make the Revelle stand in one place.
Used double stick thick tape to hold it in place in the lid.
And Bob's your uncle.
Never have to search or fumble opening or closing!
Donivanp
Captain
But Bob's not my uncle. Bud is!
N4521U
Colonel
Well Doni, that is unfortunate!
Donivanp
Captain
Yes Bill it is but nice work on the glue holder.
mikewint
Captain
fubar57
General
What's the difference between the Tamiya Orange and Green caps John? I saw the Orange this weekend and almost bought it. For my CA needs I use these,
Crimea_River
Marshal
I use the thin exclusively. Never used the orange.
N4521U
Colonel
I've got to apply a heap of Screen to my Helo build and find CA glue clogs all the openings.
Found this used in a Youtube tutorial.
Anyone have experience using it???
VMS FLEXY 5K SLOW flexible super glue for scale models 0.8 oz CA Cyanoacrylate | eBay
Found this used in a Youtube tutorial.
Anyone have experience using it???
VMS FLEXY 5K SLOW flexible super glue for scale models 0.8 oz CA Cyanoacrylate | eBay
Here are some of my observationd and recommendations after suffering from hobby glue fumes recently, note that I'm in Spain so some brands such as the Testors Limonene are impossible to find in Europe but we have our own thing and Amazon US often allows us to import easily, also note that I am more of a 'Warhammer' game miniatures hobbyist:
After 3 years of using an acetone based plastic glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement) and CA SuperGlue (Bob Smith Industires Insta Cure+), I developed an allegery to both of them roughly at the same time with couging the next day and runny nose sometimes and the occasional sneezing, flu like symptoms essentially. You can feel the irritation in the lungs. If I don't use them and days pass then the symptons go away. I tried a full face mask 3M 6800, big ventilation fans right next to me with their own floor stands and 3M 6098 filters which are meant to filter out organic acids such as acetone but still somehow the vapors affected me (less than before) if say the mask was not fitted perfectly or I walked past the hobby area without a mask after I had been gluing just before.
So I discovered "LESS" toxic alternatives ... for the plastic glue, I used less toxic "Tamiya Limonene" (orange cap, not to be confused with the 'other' Tamiya orange cap variant) which is a natural citric acid (orange peel concentrate) which works really well on warhammer grey plastics, it doesn't affect me and only takes 20% longer to melt the plastic compared to acetone glues which kill me.
As a replacement for CA glue, I used Bob Smith Industries 5 min Quik Cure Epoxy, it's a two part epoxy glue, far less toxic that CA SuperGlue and the 5 min version can be used on FineCast (not the 15/30 miin versions I think). You have to mix it which is painful but it bonds stronger than superglue, and is liquid enough to say stick magnets in tiny holes on plastic Warhammer miniatures. So epoxy glue is great as a less toxic alternative to CA Superglue. Also u have to be better organized and fast with epoxy as it has a 5 minute work time and in 15 minutes it gets hard and then in one hour it is fully hardened.
After 3 years of using an acetone based plastic glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement) and CA SuperGlue (Bob Smith Industires Insta Cure+), I developed an allegery to both of them roughly at the same time with couging the next day and runny nose sometimes and the occasional sneezing, flu like symptoms essentially. You can feel the irritation in the lungs. If I don't use them and days pass then the symptons go away. I tried a full face mask 3M 6800, big ventilation fans right next to me with their own floor stands and 3M 6098 filters which are meant to filter out organic acids such as acetone but still somehow the vapors affected me (less than before) if say the mask was not fitted perfectly or I walked past the hobby area without a mask after I had been gluing just before.
So I discovered "LESS" toxic alternatives ... for the plastic glue, I used less toxic "Tamiya Limonene" (orange cap, not to be confused with the 'other' Tamiya orange cap variant) which is a natural citric acid (orange peel concentrate) which works really well on warhammer grey plastics, it doesn't affect me and only takes 20% longer to melt the plastic compared to acetone glues which kill me.
As a replacement for CA glue, I used Bob Smith Industries 5 min Quik Cure Epoxy, it's a two part epoxy glue, far less toxic that CA SuperGlue and the 5 min version can be used on FineCast (not the 15/30 miin versions I think). You have to mix it which is painful but it bonds stronger than superglue, and is liquid enough to say stick magnets in tiny holes on plastic Warhammer miniatures. So epoxy glue is great as a less toxic alternative to CA Superglue. Also u have to be better organized and fast with epoxy as it has a 5 minute work time and in 15 minutes it gets hard and then in one hour it is fully hardened.
