- Jan 16, 2016
Get your coat Terry
This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
What the other guys said. In particular, I'm with Andy in that the best thing you can do to get yourself up and running is to experiment with different thinning ratios and compressor pressures while practicing on various media. As Andy mentioned, the spray pattern and characteristics of spraying will be different on styrene than paper and other media, so graduate to practicing on old models or left over parts as soon as you can.
I'm one of the people Andy mentioned who loves spraying Gunze acrylics, but I'm aware they're not easily available in some countries. Don't worry too much about pre-thinned paints, you'll find eventually you'll want to adjust the thinning ratio depending on the task at hand anyway.
As for primers and varnishes, there are a multitude of options out there. I consider a primer coat a must when spraying acrylics otherwise you are likely to experience paint wear and lifting during handling and masking. Here's an issue I had on my current build because I missed spraying primer on the wing leading edges.
View attachment 489308
I just decant Tamiya surface primer right out of the rattle can and spray it through my airbrush. Most manufacturers make varnishes of different finishes and you can even use acrylic floor polish for gloss coats (which is what I still do!).
Hope this helps and good luck!
That’s kinda what I thought. I’ve never used an airbrush but watched a lot of videos and spray patterns seem much more controllable. I appreciate all your great advice!Bob, the spray pattern from an aerosol can is often too 'heavy' and 'aggressive' for a relatively small model, and can leave a 'textured' surface, with uneven coverage, very often far too heavy in areas.
Accurate control of spraying is also more difficult, therefore many modellers decant the paint, and use their airbrush for for more precise control and even application.
I will try airbrushing soon, especially since I like 1/144 scale and it’s too easy to obscure detail with paint that’s too thick. Thanks again!That’s kinda what I thought. I’ve never used an airbrush but watched a lot of videos and spray patterns seem much more controllable. I appreciate all your great advice!
Hi Turbo, I am also going to try airbrushing for the first time. But I am wondering why you decant Tamiya primer from a rattle can?! Can’t you just prime with the rattle can? After all, spray paint is more expensive than bottled paint?!
Or is it that you thin it further in the airbrush so as not to cover detail with a thicker paint?
Thanks for all your advice!
I agree! Especially in my favorite scale 1/144! But I also wondered why decant a spray can for paint to use in a airbrush, which is another “spray can”?Using a rattle can on a small model is kinda like lighting a cigarette with a blow torch.
I agree! Especially in my favorite scale 1/144! But I also wondered why decant a spray can for paint to use in a airbrush, which is another “spray can”?
Why not buy a bottle of that paint and thin it for your airbrush? Certainly cheaper!?
I look forward to your progress with your air brush, and would love to see photos!I was finally able to open my airbrush shipment, and try some practice runs. Wow! all of those frustrating sessions with the hairy brush! I should have re-started my model building with this. I have tried the .3 and the .2 needles. Not to sure if the .5 will be useful yet; my truck still dosen't need repainting. I was able to create file lines and dots. Amazing. That, and with the aid of some food coloring, was able to broad spray the BW daily paper comic section into a color version. Thanks for all the input and help. I'm hopeful,l that sometime in the future, I will fee confident enough of my finished model to share some photos.
The down side to this is that I will now be buying some 'replacement' models. My favorites are brushed and would look SO MUCH nicer sprayed!
But I'll have to un-learn some assembly and painting sequences. Not quite sure yet where the horse is relative to the cart in regards to when to assemble and when to paint. Before I would paint all the internal (wheel recesses, cockpit, etc.) and the landing gear assemblies, and then assemble (glue). Then do the finish color. Looking at some of the images provided by the airbrush users, with or without primer, it seems that their models are assembled and then masked and painted in various steps? The cockpit and internals already painted, masking these. I'm probably making this way more complicated that it should be, but that's the bane of being an engineer. Overthinking!I look forward to your progress with your air brush, and would love to see photos!
Good luck with the airbrush Ralph, you’ll never look back!
Being an engineer, the painting and construction sequences should come fairly easily to you. In general, I prepaint cockpits, wheel wells, and any other visible internal areas as they will be difficult to access with the airbrush after construction. I then tend to prepaint parts and sub-assemblies that are liable to get broken off or interfere with airbrush access during painting of the main airframe such as landing gear, pitot tubes, antennae, props, control surfaces, open canopies, etc. They are then attached as one of the last steps in the project.
My yet untested skills are the masking of (if there are any) the openings such as the already painted bomb bays and detail parts (as on a B25 - B29), as well as fixing, and masking, the clear plastic parts such as the canopy and the side windows before the final painting. I can spread paint around these with a brush. Not so much with an airbrush (yet). It will just be an adjustment. One that I believe will be rewarding.