- Feb 17, 2010
Absorbent cotton also works well. Comes free in some pill bottles or you can buy large rolls of it cheap
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This and the wet towels are great ideas. Should have thought of that! Now if only there were some 'easy' canopy masking ideas? I have the Tamiya tape and will probably go that route. A bit skeptical on the liquid mask, that, I assume, would take a steady hand to keep it from coating the framework. Although trimming the tape is probably going to be as challenging. Not sure if I am in the 'class' of models that would justify (or would be able to find) the pre-cuts. As with anything, if it were EASY, everyone would be doing it!!Absorbent cotton also works well. Comes free in some pill bottles or you can buy large rolls of it cheap
You have to look at it as expanding your skills. Airbrush is not a skill to replace brush painting, but rather a new tool to use in addition to hand painting with a brush. What brand/model airbrush did you choose? Good luck with both!I would have posted a photo of me grinning, but I didn't want to have anyone having any problems unseeing it!
One of my motivations for 'crossing over' was to not have the disappointment on finishing the hull of a CV-63 USS Kitty Hawk with a brush finish. Just finished the below water line red coat. Amazing!! Anyone reading this that is on the fence about 'investing' in an airbrush, cross over! My satisfaction level of model building just went up a few notches.
I'm going to let it 'cure' for a day and then spray a coat of protective Krylon clear acrylic on it. The hull will be handled frequently while assembling the deck and components, so I want to have a hard finish to work with. I have not sprayed the upper section of the hull its gray color coat yet, but I sure am looking forward to it!
Thanks again to all who have been feeding me information.
You are absolutely correct. I would not look forward to painting the details in the cockpit, and/or the pilot with an airbrush! Each have their uses. When painting large areas, fuselages, wings and such, a brush just did not give me the finish that I wanted. Kind of got jealous after looking at the GBs!You have to look at it as expanding your skills. Airbrush is not a skill to replace brush painting, but rather a new tool to use in addition to hand painting with a brush. What brand/model airbrush did you choose? Good luck with both!
Thanks mikewint, I have an old Badger dual action but I have just never used it. Time to get it out! What is the flat clear you refer to ?A quality dual action airbrush is the best investment I have ever made and it will make a world of difference in the look of your models.
If you use a gloss color you can skip the Future step before decals but you will need to over coat the decals with a protective coat. I use 50-50 Future and flat clear. Bite the bullet you'll be glad you did.
Thanks mikewint, that's very informative! But, why don't we paint a tank using GLOSS olive drab, for instance, I should then be able to apply decals over the gloss paint, followed by a top coat of dull finish!? This would result in two coats of (something), rather than; 1st coat flat paint, 2nd coat Future, 3rd coat dulling finish. Less time, work and materials! No?What Wurger said. I use acrylic paints exclusively as I find the lacquer solvents to be very dangerous with many health/inhalation hazards. Enamels work well and I use a very few in colors that are not easy to find in acrylics. I use them (enamels) on small parts and use a brush. I don't spray them again because of the solvent. Though the mineral oils are fairly innocuous they are expensive compared to water/alcohol
Future Floor Wax (it is NOT a wax) is basically a clear acrylic paint. VARNISH is a somewhat nebulous term. Basically a resin mixed with a solvent. In my day (Ye Olde Days of Yore) the resin came from trees and was mixed with turpentine. In modern times the resins can be acrylic in nature and the solvent water/alcohols. Future is such a product. Now model paint manufactures like Vallejo do produce products which they term GLOSS VARNISH (70.510) in very small, 17ml bottles for about $5 USD. For the same price you can purchase a quart of Future. My bottle is about 2/3 full and is about 5 years old.
So in a somewhat redundant process we initially paint our models with flat military paints. The rough flat surface will not allow decals to settle in flush to the surface and the small amount of trapped air will give the decal a silvery look. SO before decaling we apply a coat or two of Future to make the model's surface smooth and shiny (so like I posted you could just paint with a gloss paint to begin with) so the decals will settle in flush to the surface with no trapped air. Products like MicroSET help the decal to adhere and products like MicroSOL literally dissolve the decal carrier in effect turning it into paint. Now we have a nice but shiny military model...SO...to remiltarize it we apply a flat clear paint.
Now I prefer my models to appear more worn. Flat paints with wear become somewhat shiny so I mix a Flat Clear acrylic paint with Future, roughly 50-50 and apply that over the entire model
Ahh!! I get it! Thanks mikewint!Yup that is correct just as I indicated in my earlier posts. Unfortunately paint manufacturers do not make military paint colors in gloss as military paints are invariably flats.
Now occasionally a military subject will be in a gloss available color. Night fighters, for example, are often black and Gloss Black is easily obtainable but, you are not going to find Olive Drab in a gloss (Mr. Color makes a semi-gloss) paint.
Now if your model has just a few decals it is not necessary to Future coat the entire model. Spray just the decal areas with Future. In addition I keep a 17ml bottle of gloss varnish for those occasions where decals (like instrument panel gauges) are to be placed on interior parts. Using a paint brush I'll paint the surface of the part with the varnish again to give the decal a nice smooth surface to adhere to.