woljags
Staff Sergeant
hi all i have a frog vampire part built that has been i've had kicking about for a while but its missing its canopy,does anyone know where i might get a replacement please,the kit is 1/72nd
cheers bob
cheers bob
d/h vampire frog
- Thread starter woljags
- Start date
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Or check if there's a vac form canopy available - there might be, for more current kits.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Out with the balsa and clear sheet then !
- Thread starter
- #7
woljags
Staff Sergeant
thanks chaps,as its my 1st time making any parts like this expect a few mistakes
- Thread starter
- #9
woljags
Staff Sergeant
no as per your suggestions i was going to try to make one
- Thread starter
- #11
woljags
Staff Sergeant
I thought that if i made a forma out of Balsa to shape and then cut some clear plastic to place over this popped in the oven when chris wasn't looking that i might end up with a canopy i could use,or a lot of explaining to do
A4K
Brigadier General
Might be enough to heat the plastic over the mould with a hair dryer, or hot air blower used for soldering? (Just an idea, don't know if it'd work).
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Make a female mould too, using a thick(ish) sheet of balsa. Fasten the clear sheet firmly to this female mould, and hold about six inches above your cooker hob, keeping the sheet moving in a circular motion. As soon as the clear sheet just starts to go 'floppy', push the male (canopy shape) mould through the clear sheet and profile 'hole', all the way. Allow to cool, and then trim with a new scalpel blade, with the male mould still inside the moulded form.
When you make the balsa male mould, seal the grain with a coat of talcum powder mixed with clear enamel gloss varnish. When fully hardened, sand lightly, clean off the dust, and seal again with another coat of clear varnish, and polish when fully hardened.
ANY imperfections in the male mould will be reproduced in the moulded part, but this can be advantageous, as tape can be used, sealed under the aforementioned coatings, to reproduce frames etc.
Be prepared to have more than one attempt, as the 'knack' is to do the actual moulding in one swift movement, before the heated plastic cools.
When you make the balsa male mould, seal the grain with a coat of talcum powder mixed with clear enamel gloss varnish. When fully hardened, sand lightly, clean off the dust, and seal again with another coat of clear varnish, and polish when fully hardened.
ANY imperfections in the male mould will be reproduced in the moulded part, but this can be advantageous, as tape can be used, sealed under the aforementioned coatings, to reproduce frames etc.
Be prepared to have more than one attempt, as the 'knack' is to do the actual moulding in one swift movement, before the heated plastic cools.
- Thread starter
- #14
woljags
Staff Sergeant
cheers Terry good tip
Yep... I agree with Terry. Also you can follow the way I used for making a pilot's seat in the thread...
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/bu...w-make-your-own-pilots-seat-models-26095.html
It is exactly the same way for making conopies. The difference is to use a clear sheet of styrene instead of the white one I used for the chair.. For the clear plastic you can use a piece of any transparent part of boxes that goods are wrapped. One thing more yuo have to pay attention to , is that if the clear plastic becomes "milky" when worming up, it means it isn't good for that purpose. Of course, check if the clear plastic can be fixed with the glue you have ,firstly. If it can't, the CA glue ( the Superglue for instance) can be needed.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/bu...w-make-your-own-pilots-seat-models-26095.html
It is exactly the same way for making conopies. The difference is to use a clear sheet of styrene instead of the white one I used for the chair.. For the clear plastic you can use a piece of any transparent part of boxes that goods are wrapped. One thing more yuo have to pay attention to , is that if the clear plastic becomes "milky" when worming up, it means it isn't good for that purpose. Of course, check if the clear plastic can be fixed with the glue you have ,firstly. If it can't, the CA glue ( the Superglue for instance) can be needed.
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- Thread starter
- #16
woljags
Staff Sergeant
can anyone help with a spare canopy for this please as i'm not having much luck trying to make one
- Thread starter
- #18
woljags
Staff Sergeant
cheers for that i will try to order one
