<-- **** DONE: 1/48 P-38J Lightning - Twin Engined Aircraft of WWII

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It sounds like you figured it out but I noticed the angle of the radio rack to the headrest bulkhead seems to match the forward cant of the bulkhead. At least in the instructions.


The headrest plate on my Aires set has a forward angle too.
 
To be honest I have never seen a such mast there at any of P-38s. I would say it's the sprue remnant.
 
Yes, that's exactly what it is. Cut it off, and lightly sand the area to match the fin contours.
Just make sure you put plenty of weight in the nose, checking that it is enough by doing a balance test, before closing the nose, by balancing the model by the wing tips, on the tips of your fingers, if the nose doesn't drop, add more weight !
Also, do a test fit of the cockpit / radio assembly, to ensure that it all lines up correctly.
 
Just waiting for the radio to setup and then its going into the test fit as well. And thanks all the sprue mast is coming off. I have a ton of old fishing sinkers, the kind that you squeeze onto a line, so I have been mashing them into various size balls to offset the weight issue.
 
I was digging around and found my fathers old furnace that he used to melt linotype and lead car wheel weights in to then cast first into ingots and then into bullets for hand loading his target ammo. I remember spending hours watching him make an entire rifle, handgun, or shotgun shell. He still had the ingot molds and I found some various shaped molds at a yard sale (same one I got the mitre box at). Fired it up and dang if it does not still work. Smoked like crazy for awhile but there was about an inch of solidified lead still in it which melted and poured just fine! After adding a little flux.
 
I noticed when I painted the landing gear bay doors that I had some serious injector pin marks. At least thats what I think they are. These are on a convex surface so will be interesting to sand, but any advice on how best to fill them? I have attached pics below.




Also noticed the handy dandy copyright statement that I will have to sand off. Question there is how to recreate the raised detail?
 
The ejector pin marks have to be filled with some of a putty and then sanded in order to get the flat surface. If these aren't too deep you may use a scalpel blade and scratch them off.

As far as the copyright statement is concerned you can sand it down without destroying of the raised details.
 
I have several putty's so will try that, I think I am going to need a piece of dowel to wrap some sand paper on as I don't have any round files or sanding sticks. The raised copyright I am going to try and sand down with a small stick and see if I can avoid the raised detail.
 
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