fubar57
General
Posted this in Andy's GB. I haven't gone through it yet but it may or may not help with their new fangled decals
Eduard's New Decals Tutorial
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Vic Balshaw
Major General
Thanks again George, hopefully a life saver for some. 
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- #3
fubar57
General
After reading the article and it says its ok not to peal, I'm ok with that
Crimea_River
Marshal
Having had some experience with these decals, I'll report on my observations here as they relate to the "quoted" parts of this document.
- "The key is to have an absolutely glossy surface where I will be applying the decal". I've always struggled to achieve the highly reflective surfaces that some of my colleagues on this forum get. It's not clear to what extent this affects the performance of these decals.
- "I use an eyedropper to transfer a few drops of the water I have soaked the decal in to the place on the model where I will apply the decal. It is important to keep the place very wet, because so the decal will literally rides on the surface and be easier to manipulate". I don't do this. The document says you can apply these decals "exactly the same as applying any other decal". I use Tamiya Mark Fit Strong setting solution which completely soaks the area that the decals is applied to and allows adjustment of position. Once positioned and pressed down onto the model, I apply more Mark Fit over the decal as per the product directions. For more stubborn areas, like the protruding aileron hinge fairings on a Mustang, I use Solvaset.
- "Peeling film requires skill, but also training and courage". TRAINING? By whom? I consider myself a skilled modeler and have struggled on two of three projects on which I tried to peel the film. The ease of peeling was inconsistent, ranging from pretty easy where the full film came off in one piece to very stubborn films that came off in tiny pieces that required lifting torn edges at the exposed decal surface which gets damaged very easily.
- "It is best to start peeling off after the decal topcoat has completely dried, at least 48 hours after application". I didn't do this as other forums I read said wait at least 12 hours. My drying time varied from about 16 to 24 hours.
So, is it worth doing? I would say that for a camouflaged scheme, no, as the film is indeed very thin. For a look at how the decals perform without removing the film, go here: GB-64 1/48 Mustang Mk.IV - One Trick Pony
The exception may be that removing the carrier film on decals applied to NMF surfaces might be more beneficial, though I've never had the need to do so as yet.
Look, despite what I've gone through, I have to say that the new Eduard decals are pretty damned nice. They are digitally printed so that alignment of the colours is perfect, unlike the mis-registered prints that you may see with silkscreened sheets. Ignore the peeling option. It's fine, really, and use them like you would any other decal. Enjoy.
- "The key is to have an absolutely glossy surface where I will be applying the decal". I've always struggled to achieve the highly reflective surfaces that some of my colleagues on this forum get. It's not clear to what extent this affects the performance of these decals.
- "I use an eyedropper to transfer a few drops of the water I have soaked the decal in to the place on the model where I will apply the decal. It is important to keep the place very wet, because so the decal will literally rides on the surface and be easier to manipulate". I don't do this. The document says you can apply these decals "exactly the same as applying any other decal". I use Tamiya Mark Fit Strong setting solution which completely soaks the area that the decals is applied to and allows adjustment of position. Once positioned and pressed down onto the model, I apply more Mark Fit over the decal as per the product directions. For more stubborn areas, like the protruding aileron hinge fairings on a Mustang, I use Solvaset.
- "Peeling film requires skill, but also training and courage". TRAINING? By whom? I consider myself a skilled modeler and have struggled on two of three projects on which I tried to peel the film. The ease of peeling was inconsistent, ranging from pretty easy where the full film came off in one piece to very stubborn films that came off in tiny pieces that required lifting torn edges at the exposed decal surface which gets damaged very easily.
- "It is best to start peeling off after the decal topcoat has completely dried, at least 48 hours after application". I didn't do this as other forums I read said wait at least 12 hours. My drying time varied from about 16 to 24 hours.
So, is it worth doing? I would say that for a camouflaged scheme, no, as the film is indeed very thin. For a look at how the decals perform without removing the film, go here: GB-64 1/48 Mustang Mk.IV - One Trick Pony
The exception may be that removing the carrier film on decals applied to NMF surfaces might be more beneficial, though I've never had the need to do so as yet.
Look, despite what I've gone through, I have to say that the new Eduard decals are pretty damned nice. They are digitally printed so that alignment of the colours is perfect, unlike the mis-registered prints that you may see with silkscreened sheets. Ignore the peeling option. It's fine, really, and use them like you would any other decal. Enjoy.
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- #5
fubar57
General
Thanks for that, Andy
Thanks Geo and Andy.
I have a few of the newish release of Bf109's from Eduard so guessing they will have these decals.
Glad to know i don't need to peel them
I have a few of the newish release of Bf109's from Eduard so guessing they will have these decals.
Glad to know i don't need to peel them
