Hasegawa 1/32 Fw190D-9

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Thank you sirs!

Before adding the brake lines, I've weathered the wheel wells slightly using different brown shades on the airbrush.


Small pieces of lead wire are used to extend the brake lines up into the fuselage instead of unrealistically ending at the edge of the wheel well.


It's a small modification but I like that it adds one more layer of credibility to the undersides.


Now I'm working towards attachment of the wings to the fuselage so I need to get the brass flaps situated correctly. The flap interior is glued into the upper wings.


The actual flaps are folded per instructions.


The flaps won't be glued until the end of the build but you can see the cool complexity that this set adds to the Dora.


Here is my first stab at the painting of the tires. There is some subtlety here that the photo doesn't show as I used a lot of different shades of browns, greys and khaki to get this effect. The main idea was to try and break the monolithic tube of the tire. I'll probably see what it looks like with the wheel painted and hopefully, I can take better photos. Jury is still out on whether or not I go with this approach.
 
Thanks Chad! I think tires and wheels are often treated as an afterthought so I wanted to bring them to life at least a little bit. The hubs were painted very dark grey with some highlights in black.


The tires were treated with a bit of dry pastels along the contact patch. The wheels have not been weathered yet... I'm waiting to play around with the oils that I ordered off of Ebay.


The interior of the upper flaps were painted RLM02 over a base coat of black.


The interior of the flaps were painted RLM02 over a base of Aclad Aluminum. I decided to have a two-tone finish on the flap interiors... metal background and RLM02 foreground. Since the RLM02 were sprayed over different colored bases, the upper and lower colors don't match and that's something that I'll have to adjust.


My first attempt at dipping the clear parts in Future weren't successful. I'm not sure what happened here but Future can be easily removed with Windex with no ill effects.


So I wiped the clear parts clean and did the dip again. Dipping in Future makes clear parts clearer and has the added advantage of protecting the clear parts from the frosting of CA glue.


The head armor and support were painted. I took the liberty of streaking a slightly lighter shade of RLM66 along the top edge to simulate some fading.


That's all for now!
 
Dip without fear Andy... Future is so easy to remove with Windex that you can always revert back to original condition.
 
On my last Dora build, I put a base coat of uniform brown on the prop blades under the RLM 70 Dark Green. On this one, I'm going to go one little step further and put some wood grain on the props. Chipping will be relatively light so you probably won't be able to make out any of the grain but hey, what's a little over-obsessiveness among modeling friends?

The props were sprayed with a yellow earth color. I used my cheapo children's oil paints to simulate the wood grain.


It took me a couple of tries before I got something that could pass for wood grain. Honestly, not very convincing in my opinion and I would work harder if this wood pattern were any more visible but in the context of serving as a chipping base, I'm going to move on. Oil paints dry slow so I'm going to give these at least a couple of days to dry and then I'll seal it with a clear coat before putting a strip of metal color along the leading edge.


I wanted to give the red and white underside pattern a try so I used the landing gear covers as a test mule. For this test, I'm using my normal mottle pre-shading routine.


Tamiya X-1 White goes over the pre-shade.


Tamiya X-7 Red goes over the white.


It's workable but I'm not 100% happy with the tone of the red. It's a little bit too orangeish. I'll have to play around with base color or maybe try to find another shade of red to use.
 
I looked into my paint shelf and found a couple of red alternatives to Tamiya X-7. The Gunze Red is a super old bottle... 30 years old at least. But it was still viable and looked to be what I was looking for.


Test shot. I have a feeling I'd get similar results if I had layed the white and red heavier the first time with the original paints.


The canopies were masked. I used the Montex masks for the windscreen but cut my own for the sliding canopy as I do not trust Montex masks to stay put over curved surfaces.


The upper wings have been glued into place. I lost the most recently added brake lines due to handling. I'll replace them when it comes time to glue to wings onto the fuselage.


I'm trying to make the cannon wing openings and camera port round. The camera port turned out a little ragged.


So I drilled it out and replaced it with a piece of brass tubing.


After cleaning up the wing seams and re-establishing the panel lines and rivets, I'll be ready to glue the wings into place.
 
The only paints I can find that are a "match" for RLM 23 are Polly Scale 505020 (Red RLM 23)(Oh how I miss you Polly Scale!!) and Testors Model Master Acril 4772. Knowing that you can't rely on computer images, your Tamiya looks closer to this...

 

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