How to get started?

[Airframes]

No problem mate. It just saves members repeating themselves describing something already covered. Some of the hints and tips might be in actual build threads - some of those by B17 Engineer, who is also relatively new to modelling, have received a lot of help, advice, and 'how to' guides, which might help.

 

[looney]

Crap more reading to do

I got the undercarriage mounted, damn that was hard work.
Tried some painting of the lightblue underside... woswers mixing colors is hard to do nicely

P.s. I got the cable to connect the photocamera to the PC. What is an easy site to uplaod multiple pictures?

 

[mikewint]

i just upload to my computer and use photoshop to do any adjusting

 

[looney]

I mean imageshack and similar to put the photos on the web. imageshack isn't to user friendly for multiple photos

P.s. I now understand why ppl paint 1st assemble 2nd A well I'll get there.

 

[Airframes]

It's best ti upload your pictures direct to the forum, re-sized no bigger than around 800 x 600 px. Use the 'Go Advanced' button at the bottom of the Reply or New Postage, and the Attachments button. Much easier, quicker, and saves 'space' on the forum, rather than using those annoying systems such as Photobucket etc.

 

[looney]

Sigh sometimes I wish my dad had a better understanding of pc's he gave me the wrong cable

Bottom side painted, now gonna need to paint the topside. Now figure out how to mask he plane.. more reading and trying

 

[N4521U]

I have just used some cheap electricians tape, the soft rubber type. The one I got from the 2 dollar shop, discount store, is yellow, soft enough to cut easily with the pointed exacto knife. Just make sure after you pull the tape from the roll you let it relax a minute or so, it stretches a bit when taking off roll. I stick it on an old credit card to cut strips. The adhesive is not so aggresive to take paint off, if good and dry. And easy to cut into curvey shapes. just push the edges down lightly with the prong of tweezers to seal. Paint won't creep under even from a brush. You'll be right. Bill

 

[mikewint]

N4521U, never tried that, i use an airbrush and seldom mask anything, when i do i use painters masking tape, the green or blue paper stuff, or sometimes i just hold a file card with my other hand

 

[looney]

Found me a review of the kit.
Revell 1/72 Focke Wulf FW 190F-8/R-14

it even mentions the gap of the wing to fuselage so not my mistake.

Sprues look the same allthough mine has a different bomb.

 

[N4521U]

Mike, you must have done T shirts to know the file card trick!
I found masking with the tape pretty easy and worked magic.

 

[mikewint]

nope, I'm brand new to air brushing but i found that if i wanted to have decent looking military models i had to. cammo looks like cr*p with a brush. so i bought an aztec double action and a set of nozzles and started practicing. I'm not good yet but i can do a decent looking cammo. I'm going to try that electrical tape. the flexibility should make curves a lot easier

 

[looney]

Haven't done much last 2 weeks, was a weekend at a holiday park.

I did however buy 6 other models for €25,- and some putty . If I can find the time I'll do the hardest part during the week. Paint the top with a sand color(Revell woodbrown and yellow mix color )

The filler I used (correction fluid) cracked on the bigger gaps, I removed that yesterday. now I need to remask the model and start mixing.

P.s. the models I purcased:
Encore:
YAK-9 DD/T/K
Italeri:
Spitfire MkIX
Messerschmitt Bf-109G6

Revell
Sea Hurricane mk. IIc
Messerschmitt BF109 G10
Fw190A8/R11

 

[JohnAnthony]

The filler I used (correction fluid) cracked on the bigger gaps, I removed that yesterday. now I need to remask the model and start mixing.

I had the same issue when I tried to go cheap and use vinyl spackling as a filler. It worked great but then it started cracking a few months after the model had been completed! Ugh. There's no substitue for bona fide modeling putty.

 

[looney]

I bought autofiller I heard good stories bout it. bought terpentine (no idea how it's called in english) to dilute it.

Question: I bought a bottle of future, to seal in the paint and decals can one paint over the future? Cause I need to paint over decals.

 

[JohnAnthony]

I bought autofiller I heard good stories bout it. bought terpentine (no idea how it's called in english) to dilute it.

Question: I bought a bottle of future, to seal in the paint and decals can one paint over the future? Cause I need to paint over decals.

You can paint over Future, like applying a wash etc., but make sure you DON'T use an acrylic-based wash. Use oil or enamel. Future is acrylic-based (meant to dissolve in water) so if you apply an acrylic wash it will start dissolving the Future.

 

[looney]

hmm I paint with acrylics... I reckon I have to dry the model at leat 24hours then. After the future has cured it's water resistent I believe.

 

[JohnAnthony]

After the future has cured it's water resistent I believe.

Yeah, theoretically. A lot depends on your climate - humidity, temp etc. I would recommend getting some ProModeler washes, they have great weathering stuff and advice...

- Promodeller Home

 

[mikewint]

acrylics don't really dry in that sense, any more than concrete "drys". chemical reactions occur which bind the pigments in a polymer lattice. if you paint your house with an acrylic paint, it does not wash off in the rain any more than concrete sidewalks dissolve in rain. once the acrylic is set water based anything will no longer affect it. however organic solvents like those used in lacquers can affect the polymer lattice. best rule is to not mix solvent types

 

[looney]

Pinted the plane.. and applied Parket Plus (=future).. gonna apply the decals this week. then apply the green mottling.

oh and camera died on me.

 

[looney]

any ideas how to apply mottling with a brush?