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Maty12

Senior Airman
337
369
Nov 6, 2019
Hi y'all,

I've been on this forum for a while and started having a lot of free time over the summer, so I finally bit the bullet and decided to try building model kits in real life after years of making liveries and 3d models.

Previous attempts/Not super relevant stuff
Now, this isn't technically my first time modeling. My dad and I (by which I mean my dad did like 90% of the work) built two kits when I was around 5 or 6; a Gee Bee R1 and a B-17F. We never painted them or added decals and I don't really know where they are now, I think they were tossed in the garbage years back. The hobby shop we bought them in is long gone now, but we're still friends with the owner and he has a tiny little baked goods shop that we visit every now and then. My dad isn't big on planes, but has told me many times that he used to build kits and quit because of a particularly frustrating F4U kit. He still dislikes the Corsair.

Getting Started
I decided to start modeling again because I wanted a short wing B-26, and by all accounts Monogram's snap-tite kit in 1/72 would be the best option. I bought it in early February used on ebay. Of course, it required painting and decals and I'd have to decide on a livery. Eventually I decided that given how much I spent on the model and how important it was to me, that I should get some practice first instead of making it my first kit. We'll circle back to the Marauder later.

Airfix Hurricane Mk. I Starter Set (1/72)
Hurricane 1.jpgHurricane 2.jpg
Well if I'm getting started, why not go with a starter set? I don't really remember why I picked the Hurricane in particular, but I wanted to go with a starter set so that I wouldn't need to buy paints or a brush. That turned out to be a bad plan. I don't know if it was due to shipping or if this is a common issue, but three of the kit's four paints (Humbrol 29, 30 and 33) arrived solid. I watered them down a bit and managed to get them usable, but that left me with very runny colored water and clumps. Parts of the model are quite lumpy because the latter. Humbrol 90 came in good condition and its tiny container seemed to have a different design for the lid. Perhaps it was better sealed? I decided to paint the smaller parts while they were on the sprue and I think that ended up being a good approach, though I watered down the Humbrol 90 too much initially. Luckily I remembered to use a different container before adding water, meaning the rest of the paint was fine.

Onto construction and the issues started immediately. The first step in the Hurricane kit is building the wheel wells, and I struggled a lot with that. The main reason for that is quite obvious in hindsight: I hadn't bought any tweezers, thinking I wouldn't need them. I did need them. Eventually I got them on well enough, but then I couldn't get the wing halves to close. I don't know if this was a manufacturing issue or (most likely) a mistake on my part, but the wing would not sit flush with the small wheel well parts attached. I tossed the two sidewalls in the trash and got the wings to close. This turned out to also be a mistake, as those side walls were very important for properly mounting the landing gear, which I later glued on quite crooked. I pressed on and built the cockpit. I loved how detailed it looked and managed to do a decent job with the black and light green on the joystick. I decided I'd glue the canopy open so that my hard work was easier to see, though sadly I couldn't get my camera to focus when taking photos, so I don't have any.

By the time I painted the camouflage I was quite excited and happy with the results. Sure, it was messy, but it looked like an airplane and I couldn't believe that I had managed to paint that camouflage. The process itself was a handful, and I found myself in a cycle of accidentally painting past where I intended, changing colors to fix that and going past the boundary again, but that was a good learning experience and lesson: buy masking tape. This was my first time using decals, and I managed to get all of them on except for the walkways on the wings, which I accidentally crumpled up trying to line them up. I wanted to see if I'd really need decal solutions or not. The decals on the Hurricane immediately silvered, so the answer was a clear yes. That's three things I need for next time then.

The entire process took me roughly 20 hours spread over two days. I originally walked away very frustrated and had decided to build no further models, as I didn't enjoy the process. But I was also very proud of how the Hurricane turned out and felt an urge to get better at modeling, so within a few days I was buying paints, brushes, decal solution, masking tape, tweezers and my next project. I learned a lot from this kit, mainly what not to do, and still think the result looks quite nice other than the landing gear, especially given that it was my first kit. I might go back and try to fix the crooked landing gear at some point, as I think it's the only thing I'd really consider bad about my model. I did manage to keep the propeller free from glue, so it can spin!

Livery:
As close as I could get it to the one on the box, LI592 from No. 615 Squadron, August 1940. Used only the paints included in the kit (Humbrol 29, 30, 33 and 90). I did no research on this aircraft.


Airfix P-40B Warhawk (1/72)
P-40 1.jpgP-40 2.jpgP-40 3.jpgP-40 4.jpg

At this point it was very clear to me that I should not buy starter sets and would indeed need to buy paints, so I opted to buy another aircraft I liked and one that used paints the Marauder would also need, in order to minimize leftovers. The P-40B met both of these criteria. My supplies arrived piecemeal, the P-40 kit itself being one of the last items to do so. I did research beforehand on the proper color of the propeller blades as I was confused by the bare aluminum on one side and black on the other, and found that at the time propellers were to be left mostly unpainted but painted maroon on the side facing the pilot to eliminate glare, starting at the tip and ending at either the 18" or 24" mark from the hub. I couldn't find any maroon so I bought dark red and figured I'd see how well that turned out. I found the P-40 kit far less difficult to build.

My mistakes:
-I did not check whether the paints I bought were for paintbrushes or airbrushes beforehand, buying the cheapest and smallest bottles I could find. I ended up with three airbrush paints: Mission Models Olive Drab 41 and Interior Green, and Vallejo White. The white wasn't relevant for this kit, so I'll save it for the Marauder section. The Olive Drab caused 90% of my problems with this model, as it would not dry even when left for 24 hours. It was also too runny to use on the canopy properly, going everywhere except the struts. I finished the canopy mainly using dry bits of paint from the lid applied via a modified paperclip that I had been using to apply polycement. The Interior Green also took long to dry but it looked damn good if I dare say so myself, so no complaints there.

-I bought Vallejo silvergrey thinking that it would be a great color for the propellers and oleo struts, only to find that it is not shiny at all. Apparently I should have purchased a different color instead. I didn't notice until just now that the bottle even said silvergrey instead of silver!

-The Vallejo dark red was not even close to maroon. I'm quite new to acrylic paints, so maybe there's a better way to do this, but my attempt to fix this was to add a layer of very watered-down Humbrol 29 Dark Earth on top. It did not work, the propeller just looked brown, so I wiped it off before it could dry.

-I used scissors and a nail clipper to break the parts from the sprue, using the clipper's file to clean up the resulting bumps. Neither was a good option, I ended up cutting of chunks of the plane, and left an ugly large scar on one of the propeller blades.

Livery:
My multiple coats of OD 41 without giving them proper time to dry ended up giving a very weathered look, which I quite like despite it being entirely unintentional. I used Tamiya masking tape to paint the wing walkways and am quite happy with them. I painted the kit to match the livery on the box, 41-13297 from the 18th Pursuit Group, December 1941. I looked up some photos as reference instead of using the boxart. Happy with how the kit came out with the exception of the damaged non-shiny propellers. Colors used were Mission Models Olive Drab 41 & Interior Green (cockpit, inside of doors and wheel wells), Vallejo Black, Dark Red (propeller anti-glare), Gunmetal Grey (for the exhaust stacks and all 6 machine guns), Neutral Grey and Silvergrey (oleo struts, propeller). I used the kit's decals as best I could, but quite a few of them were too small for me. This was also my first time using Microsol + Microset. I think the results were quite good, but whenever I applied it to the model the never-drying Olive Drab would rub off. Could also have been the water from the decals. Like I said, the Olive Drab was the cause of almost all my problems. I really need to read the labels before buying next time.

Thoughts on the kit:
I enjoyed the P-40 much more than the Hurricane, partly because I had better supplies and more practice, but also because the kit itself was easier. It was very difficult to misalign any parts due to long square pins and holes. That being said, the instructions were a bit confusing when it came to one item: the small inboard landing gear doors. it's very hard to tell which side of them is the outside and which is the inside, or which is the top and which is the bottom. I glued them on upside down at first, and after fixing that I still think I might have accidentally put them in each other's location. My only other complaint is that the main landing gear are attached to the sprue by the same pins that are used to attach them to the airplane, meaning that a mistake when cutting out the parts can ruin their attachment. Thankfully their shape and length still lines them up 100% correctly as long as you add enough glue to compensate.
 
Monogram B-26B-2 Marauder (1/72 Snap-Tite)
B-26 1.jpgB-26 3.jpgB-26 2.jpg
As a Snap-Tite kit, construction on this one was quite easy, but I took an extremely long time deciding on a livery. I had no interest in using the kit's own decals as they were rather low quality, used the stars and bars roundels that I don't find very aesthetically pleasing, and were so old they had yellowed with time (The kit is from 1978). The early B-26Bs are a great version of the B-26, but not my favorite. However, the only B-26/B-26A kit in 1/72 is the Valom kit which is extremely inaccurate. I went back and forth on whether I should try a conversion or not. If I was going to keep it as a B-26B-2, then I wanted to portray an aircraft that was actually a B-26B-2 or close enough to it. I didn't want to use pin-ups, so I had decided on either Klondike II, Say Uncle or Fuzzy Baby from the 442nd squadron. The problem was that I couldn't find decals for any of these. Printscale does produce decals for some aircraft from that squadron, and that set includes one Donald Duck insignia like the one all three aircraft used, but only one, whereas my references show the real aircraft as having mirrored versions of it on both sides. Not confident in my ability to reproduce that noseart by hand, I shelved the idea.

I then found Squadron's conversion kit, which comes with a B-26/B-26A tail canopy among other items, and purchased it. I could find no decals for the B-26/B-26A except for one livery: FK375 Dominion Revenge, an RAF Marauder I. Throughout its life FK375 wore a very appealing desert camouflage, which was then repainted into an equally appealing Temperate Sea camouflage. I decided to go for the latter. At this point the Hurricane had yet to arrive, and I thought of buying Airfix's Mustang IV starter kit so that I could further refine my modeling skills, test decal solutions, and reuse its paints for the Marauder. My experience with the Hurricane kit promptly put a stop to that idea. I gave up on FK375 for good after failing to find spinners and after the vacuform tail canopy arrived. To put it politely, my skills were simply not sufficient to cleanly cut it out of the mold. The kit also came with landing lights, which the model lacked, and my attempt at cutting up the Monogram kit for them was very unsuccessful and messy. The tail canopy itself was serviceable, but then I ran into a limitation of the Squadron conversion itself: It did not line up with the kit's rudder, despite being made for it, and don't even attempt to reach the horizontal stabilizer. I suspect the latter is due to an oddly prevalent misconception about the B-26/B-26A's tail position, which the Valom kit also possesses. I suspect an experienced modeler could very easily solve these issues, as well as modify the kit's tail cone to match, but that is well above my skill level. Out of the window goes FK375 or any plans of a B-26/B-26A conversion.

I eventually settled on a trainer B-26 that I liked the look of, B-26B-2 41-17904. I purchased the aforementioned Vallejo white for the prop hubs, cowl rings and fuselage numbering. I still could not find suitable decals, however, and just purchased the also previously mentioned Printscale set. However I somehow failed to notice that even if I cut up the serial numbers there was no way to paint 117904 on the fuselage, because none of the liveries on the decal sheet had a yellow number 4! I later noticed that the decals included in the kit itself were only one serial off from the number I wanted, but as I said before they were yellowed and of low quality, plus they also didn't have a 4!
B-26B-2 41-17904 1183.jpg

When it came time to paint the model I just gave up on modifying the serial at all, having no confidence that I'd be able to paint a 04 that small by hand. I was also in a rush because I had to pack my things and go home, so I wanted to finish painting as soon as possible. I used masking tape with mixed effectiveness, and then did a lot of freehanding as well. I bought Tamiya's curving 3 mm masking tape in order to make the fuselage's wavy demarcation line, but struggled a lot with it. I did manage to use it on one side of the fuselage, but not the other. The two sides did not end up matching, but I figured it looked good enough. The cowl rings were very difficult to paint, as their irregular shape makes the masking tape hard to apply, and the overly thin white and olive drab both had a habit of slipping under the tape. I also used masks to paint on the de-icer boots. I used Interior Green for some of the interior, but black for the cockpit and neutral grey for the wheel wells as per Martin practice at the time. I painted the seats and propeller tips yellow. Neutral Grey went on the landing gear struts, with Silvergrey on the oleo. I then used some of that Vallejo Dark Red to pick out the fuel caps and one of the bombing lights on the engine nacelle, then the white for the other one. I used white for the large 1183 painted on the fuselage, and am happy enough with it. I don't really think I could do much better and anytime I tried to improve the markings would start a cycle of white, too much white, clean brush, use olive drab to fix the problem, too much, clean the brush, get more white.

I purchased Montex Masks to paint the canopy and wheels, and I've very glad I did. the originally inscribed lines on the cockpit piece in the Monogram kit are very incorrect and one of the only two problems with the kit, the Montex Masks allowed me to paint the cockpit much more accurately, since they weren't made for this kit. My process for painting the canopy was... unorthodox, shall we say. Remembering the Olive Drab's tendency to go everywhere except where I wanted it to go, I placed all the masks on the part and then poured a large amount of paint from the bottle until the canopy was absolutely covered in it. This was a huge gamble and thankfully it payed off. I let it set for an hour without touching it, then removed the masks. There was very little leakage and I picked it off using the tip of my tweezers. I couldn't be happier with how the canopy turned out. I don't remember how I painted the tail canopy, but it also turned out quite well.
B-26 4.jpgB-26 5.jpg

Building Process:
The Snap-Tite works very well, and I suspect that all my issues with parts come from the fact that it's from 1978 and I purchased it used. Mine came with a broken propeller shaft, was missing the radio antenna mast, and the mount for the top turret had broken off, the components for it not being in the box. Some of the snap-tite pins were also broken. I made a new turret mount using a paperclip I cut in half. The kit is meant to be assembled in such a way that all wheels, both propellers, and the top turret can spin, and the top and tail turret's guns can raise or lower in elevation, were it brand new. I built the model out of the box with no paint, managed to glue the broken propeller in a way that allowed it to spin, then bumped into it a few weeks later breaking it again. I figured there was no point in gluing it back on until I had painted everything, since that would've made the propeller and engine difficult to paint.

I disassembled the kit and put it back in its box. The other propeller's shaft had broken by the next time I picked the kit up. In my attempt to remove the main wheels from their struts I broke one of their axles. The kit went back into the box. The other axle broke somehow. I managed to glue one back on and keep the wheel spinning. I thought I had fixed the other axle as well, only to realize that what I had glued on there was one of the propeller shafts. I have no idea what happened to the axle and never found it. I tried to fabricate a new axle, but with my limited skills I just couldn't. I gave up on having the wheels spin, deciding it was more important for the propellers to do so, and butchered one of the main wheels until its hole was big enough to fit some bit of sprue I had attached to the landing gear strut, then glued the whole thing together. I didn't need to glue many of the other parts, and in fact I didn't glue most of them. The only parts glued together were the fuselage halves and wing halves, because the broken snap-tite pins resulted in the two wing halves separating at the tips otherwise.

I never glued the propellers back on, because as I had to pack up my things and go home, and they would be very likely to break while in storage. This unintentionally makes the kit almost historically accurate in its present condition, as for a period Martin was producing Marauders faster than Curtiss could make propellers for them, so several aircraft sat parked outside the factory without propellers for days. I say almost because those were not B-26B-2s, and because my model already has unit markings. I'll put the propellers on when I get back to the US, as well as paint the exhaust stacks gunmetal grey as I forgot to in my rush.

Thoughts on the kit:
This is the best early B-26 kit currently available in 1/72 and it does an impressive job at matching the real aircraft. Its only inaccuracies are that the kit's nose mount for the .30 Browning is mounted below the nose centerline instead of above it, that the cockpit's struts are very incorrect, that the navigator's hatch/astrodome, the landing lights and the right wing's pitot tube are missing, and the simplified landing gear. These can be easily fixed even by a moderately skilled model, and a beginner like me is able to fix at least the cockpit since it only requires painting. Eduard's many detail sets can also be used to decorate the empty wheel wells. It's worth noting that the kit features the B-26B-2's original small air intakes, and no B-26B or B-26B-2 that went into combat in the MTO or ETO retained these. So what can you make with this kit? Quite a lot of aircraft, actually:
To make a B-26/B-26A, make spinners, purchase the Squadron tail conversion and modify it.
To make a Marauder Mk. I, make spinners, Squadron tail, then modify (or buy new) engine cowlings with the larger air intakes.
To make a factory-fresh B-26B, make spinners.
To make an ETO/MTO B-26B, B-26B-2 or B-26B-3, replace the nose cone with one that has a centerline-mounted gun and the additional bracing, replace the air intakes.
To make a B-26B-4, replace the nosecone, air intakes, and modify the nose landing gear and its landing gear doors to add the new downlock's "bump" and reflect the aircraft's nose-high attitude.

So yeah, that's what I've built so far. Hope this is interesting. I'll post more once I've built more, or once I'm back in the US and able to put the props back on the B-26. For now, have some photos of my Hurricane and Spitfire next to my Albatross D V, which is almost in scale with them (it's in roughly 1/69 based on my measurements).
Hurricane and P-40 1.jpgHurricane and P-40 2.jpg
 
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I agree with at6. There are areas that would need some of touch but not bad. Nice job. :thumbright:

A tip though ... if you use the acrylic paints , please buy a retarder and add some of it with a thinner to paints before applying. If you know the trade mark of the colours you may check if the firm offers a dedicated one for the paints.
 
I agree with at6. There are areas that would need some of touch but not bad. Nice job. :thumbright:

A tip though ... if you use the acrylic paints , please buy a retarder and add some of it with a thinner to paints before applying. If you know the trade mark of the colours you may check if the firm offers a dedicated one for the paints.
Thanks for the kind words and the advice. I've heard of thinner before, but hadn't heard of retarders. Seems like they could come in handy.
 
Quite a long account of your experiences but excellent for people in the same boat as you who are just starting out. I would encourage you to tap into the expertise here and ask lots of questions. In return, I will be coming to you for any advice on the B-26 if and when I get around to building one. I do 1/48 scale exclusively and am aware that the ancient Monogram kit is the only one around and that it has lots of challenges.

I'm not sure if you happened to buy acrylic paints out of choice or just as the first thing you saw. It's one of the fundamental decisions you'll need to make as to whether to use acrylics (typically fast drying but not very durable) or enamels (slow drying, stinky, but more durable and forgiving). As Wojtek says, retarders for acrylics are more for airbrushing and are meant to reduce the chance of acrylic paints drying in the air before they hit the model and so won't be necessary for you if you are using a hairy stick. Looks like you had an unusually long time for your acrylic paint to dry anyway. Something is not right there as they should dry in less than an hour.
 
Quite a long account of your experiences but excellent for people in the same boat as you who are just starting out. I would encourage you to tap into the expertise here and ask lots of questions. In return, I will be coming to you for any advice on the B-26 if and when I get around to building one. I do 1/48 scale exclusively and am aware that the ancient Monogram kit is the only one around and that it has lots of challenges.

I'm not sure if you happened to buy acrylic paints out of choice or just as the first thing you saw. It's one of the fundamental decisions you'll need to make as to whether to use acrylics (typically fast drying but not very durable) or enamels (slow drying, stinky, but more durable and forgiving). As Wojtek says, retarders for acrylics are more for airbrushing and are meant to reduce the chance of acrylic paints drying in the air before they hit the model and so won't be necessary for you if you are using a hairy stick. Looks like you had an unusually long time for your acrylic paint to dry anyway. Something is not right there as they should dry in less than an hour.
I definitely should be asking more questions here, will try to do so for future builds. I've watched a few youtube videos about modeling, but that's about it. I've learned quite a bit, but have a lot left to learn.

Regarding the B-26, the only short-wing kits I'm aware of are Valom and Monogram's offerings in 1/72, but Lone Star and Hypercat produce excellent conversion kits in 1/48 for the more experienced modelers willing to chop off a late B-26B's wings and tail. If you do decide to build one by all means feel free to message me, I've got an extensive library of photographs and diagrams, and can also take a look at what would be needed to represent specific models. There's a surprising lack of early B-26B builds out there, everyone who goes for the early models seems to build B-26-MA Susie-Q, with a few notable exceptions like this silver-prop beauty and Tony O'Toole's beautiful Temperate Sea RAF Marauder Is. That's not to say Susie-Q isn't also lovely, I'm quite fond of it and the original Marauder is my favorite, just stating that it seems to be the one most people go for, and the B-26As and B through B-4s are very much underrepresented.

With regards to acrylic vs enamels or lacquers I really didn't put much thought into it, my only decision was to go for paintbrushes instead of airbrushes due to my university dorm's non-opening windows/lack of ventilation. I'd like something fast-drying and easy to use, as I tend to make these models in sort of marathon sessions. I might look into changing that approach in the future, all three of the models in this thread were certainly quite rushed.

With the Olive Drab 41 I genuinely don't know what the issue is. It's the only color that gave me issues, I even tried leaving the pot open for an entire night to see if dried somewhat since it was extremely liquid, but it did nothing. The P-40 model was still leaving OD on my hands when I put it away for storage, and that was a week after I had applied the decals. Perhaps my hands just get too sweaty and that rubs the paint off. I didn't have any varnish, but will be buying some and coating the models with it when I'm reunited with them. Also buying a hobby knife so that I stop cutting chunks of the model off with the sprue.
 
You OD maybe could have settled badly and needed a good 5 minute stir.
Hadn't thought of that, will try stirring it with a toothpick. Don't currently have any kits on me to test it on, should pick one up soon. The joys of being back in Brazil involve being reminded of just how little our currency is worth, how heavily these kits are often taxed, and having far fewer kits to choose from.
 
You don't need a kit to test it. Just load the brush and paint a stripe on any disposable plastic container and see what happens.
Update: tested on a plastic cup after stirring for several minutes. After one hour some of it was dry and some wet, after two hours everything's dry and not rubbing off, seems like the stirring did the trick. Thanks for the tip!
 
Thanks for the kind words, everyone!

Good start and welcome back to the world of four letter words, self inflicted scalpel wounds and CA attached to everything but the photo-etched part. If in doubt ask first and commit later. Everyone here will be more than happy to help but you might get five different opinions
Thanks! I look forward to being more active here.
 
Back in the US as of a few weeks ago, so the Marauder has finally received its props.
5513C1D0-B9BB-4D5D-AD22-32A78FD5E148.jpeg8710C8ED-0805-4FD0-95E8-F87051E447CC.jpeg
Also have two kits in the mail: the Airfix B-25B, which I'll paint up as 40-2303 "Whirling Dervish", and the Academy B-17C/D, which I will probably build in using markings supplied in the kit or as another NMF B-17C/D.
 
Back in the US as of a few weeks ago, so the Marauder has finally received its props.
View attachment 642129View attachment 642131
Also have two kits in the mail: the Airfix B-25B, which I'll paint up as 40-2303 "Whirling Dervish", and the Academy B-17C/D, which I will probably build in using markings supplied in the kit or as another NMF B-17C/D.
Looking forward to see the B-17C/D build!
 

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