Airframes
Benevolens Magister
When you can post pics, I'm sure one of us can offer suggestions.
Junkers 88A-4 Markings
- Thread starter mandoman
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- Thread starter
- #22
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Ok, this is where I'm at, so far. I wanted to finish the wing puttying before posting, but the bottom, and top are pretty good examples of what I mean. You may notice that I have a problem with the etched lines already in place. While trying to get rid of the joint lines, I end up sanding off part of the etched lines. Also, when I glue two sides of any part of the plane together, it usually comes down to the choice of matching the ends, or making the etched lines on either side match. Any suggestions would help. Thanks. 
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The model looks nice.
Concerning these engraved panel lines and their matching the ends.The main rule of modelling says "fit three times but glue once".Hadn't you noticed it before you put these fuselage halves together?Why I asked about.... because it is much easier to re-engrave these lines correctly before these halves are glued together.Now it is a little bit harder but possible.You will need a needle or scalpel razor and a strip of metal which is flexible ( a can of beer is a of straight and oval edges).Then try to fit the "ruler" to the fuselage curve in order to get a right line position.You can fix the strip to the fuselage with masking tape for instance.Then use a needle to engrave the line going along the "ruler" edge.
BTW There are offered special line engraver knives by Trumpeter.These are a very useful tool.
Concerning these engraved panel lines and their matching the ends.The main rule of modelling says "fit three times but glue once".Hadn't you noticed it before you put these fuselage halves together?Why I asked about.... because it is much easier to re-engrave these lines correctly before these halves are glued together.Now it is a little bit harder but possible.You will need a needle or scalpel razor and a strip of metal which is flexible ( a can of beer is a of straight and oval edges).Then try to fit the "ruler" to the fuselage curve in order to get a right line position.You can fix the strip to the fuselage with masking tape for instance.Then use a needle to engrave the line going along the "ruler" edge.
BTW There are offered special line engraver knives by Trumpeter.These are a very useful tool.
109ROAMING
2nd Lieutenant
Nice progress anyway!
- Thread starter
- #25
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Cool, I have tried to engrave those lines with a sharp razor knife, but the metal "ruler" is a great idea. In fact, it is a very simple answer to the problem, which is why I didn't think of it.
I'll look into that engraver knife by Trumpeter. I appreciate all of your suggestions.
Oh, I have never heard of that rule you quoted above, but it makes sense. Why is it easier to fix the engraving before the gluing?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
There's also a new set of individual engraving tools, including a rivet 'punch', from Tamiya. You can also use label tape, like the 'DYMO' labelling system, as a ruler.
I noticed you are using a lot of what appears to be rather messy putty for a fairly small joint. Have you considered using a 2-part epoxy putty, such as 'Milliput'? You can also do as Wayne and I do, by filling the joint only with Superglue, then rubbing down that area, avoiding most of the surrounding areas and, if it's a small joint, mix talcum powder with gloss varnish, until it's a gooey paste, and brush that into the joint. It will find its own level, and dry hard, needing very little, if any, sanding.
But the main thing is what Wurger pointed out. Test fit, test fit and test fit! If you think there is going to be a mis-match in the joint, glue it in stages, rather than in one go, and always try to keep the parts clamped whilst setting; you can use masking tape, pulled tight around the joint, to achieve this. It's normally during the setting period when joints tend to 'spring'. Or, if the parts are not fully set and you recommence work, it's very easy for what was a nice neat joint to become misaligned. If in doubt, leave it - overnight if neccessary, until you know it has set properly.
I noticed you are using a lot of what appears to be rather messy putty for a fairly small joint. Have you considered using a 2-part epoxy putty, such as 'Milliput'? You can also do as Wayne and I do, by filling the joint only with Superglue, then rubbing down that area, avoiding most of the surrounding areas and, if it's a small joint, mix talcum powder with gloss varnish, until it's a gooey paste, and brush that into the joint. It will find its own level, and dry hard, needing very little, if any, sanding.
But the main thing is what Wurger pointed out. Test fit, test fit and test fit! If you think there is going to be a mis-match in the joint, glue it in stages, rather than in one go, and always try to keep the parts clamped whilst setting; you can use masking tape, pulled tight around the joint, to achieve this. It's normally during the setting period when joints tend to 'spring'. Or, if the parts are not fully set and you recommence work, it's very easy for what was a nice neat joint to become misaligned. If in doubt, leave it - overnight if neccessary, until you know it has set properly.
- Thread starter
- #27
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Fantastic ideas! I have considered super glue before, but never really tried it. I really like the talcum powder with gloss varnish mix, though.
I see now what you are saying about the gluing/fitting process, and once again it never occurred to me. So you glue the body halves a little at a time, making sure that the etched sections match before gluing and moving on after it dries. Have I got that right? You guys are raising me to a new level of modeling building, and I can't thank you enough.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, you've about got it there! Of course, if the fuselage, wing or whatever, will go together in one go, fine; but if it's a big area, like the fuselage on a 1/48th JU88, it's probably better to do it in stages. You can use poly liquid cement as you 'move down' the fuselage, by using the brush that normally comes as part of the bottle, and CAREFULLY inserting it into the gap, running it along for a given length (up to you to decide, depending on any problems etc.), then clamping that section with tape, before moving on, and so on.
If in doubt, get ahold of a cheap model, and have a practice, to perfect your techniques. The main thing is DON'T RUSH! Don't be tempted to start on the next part fitting if what you are going to fit to isn't set; it'll only mean more work in the long run, and possibly a less than 'acceptable' model.
Good luck, Terry.
If in doubt, get ahold of a cheap model, and have a practice, to perfect your techniques. The main thing is DON'T RUSH! Don't be tempted to start on the next part fitting if what you are going to fit to isn't set; it'll only mean more work in the long run, and possibly a less than 'acceptable' model.
Good luck, Terry.
- Thread starter
- #29
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Thanks Terry. I never hurry on a model build, but I can see the sense in that in especially the matching process. You guys have sure helped out, and I thank you. I always new there had to be ways to improve on model building in general, and I think I stumbled on a few on my own, but the information you have given is priceless.......well, I hope it is anyway.
It is obvious from the above photo that some of the panel lines are not going to line up no matter what you do so it becomes more important to make sure your halves match up correctly and you don't create a step between halves.
Then work on fixing the panel lines, fill on one half and rescribe in line with the other half.....
Then work on fixing the panel lines, fill on one half and rescribe in line with the other half.....
- Thread starter
- #31
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Will do, and working on it. Thanks.
Hi again,
Due to my work I couldn't answer your questions earlier but Terry and Wayne have supperted me greatly.Thank you my Friends !!!
Concerning your question
Because if there is a need to correct the engraved panel lines on one of these fuselage halves for example, you can put the one half on a flat surface ( a board for instance) and make it immovable.It is important because you will have two hands for the "ruler" and an engraver won't you?
When both halves are glued togeter it is not easy to make it fixed to the flat surface and you have to hold the glued fuselage in one hand while with the second one you have to engrave these pane lines.
BTW. You have mentioned you considered the super glue as a putty for filling the joint.It is a very good idea but you have to know that sanding of the kind of putty is not easy.But fortunately there is a liquid called "DEBONDER" which is the acrylic cement remover.
Due to my work I couldn't answer your questions earlier but Terry and Wayne have supperted me greatly.Thank you my Friends !!!
Concerning your question
Why is it easier to fix the engraving before the gluing?
Because if there is a need to correct the engraved panel lines on one of these fuselage halves for example, you can put the one half on a flat surface ( a board for instance) and make it immovable.It is important because you will have two hands for the "ruler" and an engraver won't you?
When both halves are glued togeter it is not easy to make it fixed to the flat surface and you have to hold the glued fuselage in one hand while with the second one you have to engrave these pane lines.
BTW. You have mentioned you considered the super glue as a putty for filling the joint.It is a very good idea but you have to know that sanding of the kind of putty is not easy.But fortunately there is a liquid called "DEBONDER" which is the acrylic cement remover.
- Thread starter
- #33
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Man, I have run into major screwups on this Ju-88. Why is it that the seemingly easiest part of a model turn out to be the biggest issue. I usually have the most difficulty with landing gear, but I think I licked that easily on this Ju-88. The part I'm struggling with is, get ready.....the stinkin' exhaust pipe covers. SHEESH! I'm disgusted, because I handled it badly from the beginning. The covers don't seem to fit over the pipes the way they should, as they try to go directly through the wing/nacel landing gear doors. I looked to see if I had installed the nacels correctly, and the lines actually line up nearly perfect. Whatever, I'm working on it, and will post a pic, or two of my progress when I get past this mess.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, agree with Wurger! Keep at it, you'll beat the darn thing yet!
- Thread starter
- #36
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
He he he.... there is no model we cannot to assemble or correct....
Keep working on..
LOL! Ok, I see what you mean. Don't worry, I don't give up that easily.....in fact, I have never given up on a model yet, no matter how bad it ended up.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, agree with Wurger! Looking forward to the next pics mate!
Yep, let's see some more!!!
- Thread starter
- #40
mandoman
Airman 1st Class
Man, did I ever lose track of this. I got derailed for a few months there. I have mixed feelings about this Ju-88, and I'm hoping to correct some of the problems I had with this one on the next Ju-88 I build. Still trying. You can see the finished product in "My Abums".
