Lotus Pair.

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Or just all five ...

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Pics as promised.


Pic 1. The Gold Leaf car has had the gloss white sprayed on the lower body, and is ready for masking to spray the upper half, and the other parts, gloss red.
Pics 2 and 3. The JPS car has been sprayed gloss black overall. This will have a very light, wet sanding, before spraying a second coat of black.
Pic 4. The bonnet (hood) on the JPS car seems to have collected what I suspect is fine paper dust, from the tissues used to wipe-out the paint cup on the airbrush - I'll remember to move the parts well out of range the next time I clean-up, but this should disappear when lightly wet-sanded, ready for a second coat of paint.
Note that the process and painting stages used on these models are the same as those used when I've painted real cars, sometimes by brush, using "coach paint", and should result in in a nice smooth, deep gloss finish, with a final, clear gloss varnish - I hope !

I hope to get this done later today, after first masking, and then spraying the red, on the Gold Leaf car.
Back sometime soon(ish).


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Looks great Terry and I'm sure you'll sort the black hood issue. Car model finishes are much less forgiving than airplanes methinks.
 
Thanks Andy, and yes, car models do show up blemishes more, especially being in larger scales.
I've managed to sort the bonnet ( hood ) on the JPS car, which has been lightly wet-sanded, along with the main body, nose cone and scuttle, and these are now all ready for a second coat of gloss black.
The Gold Leaf car is masked, ready for painting the gloss red, and the other parts have also been prepared.

Pic 1. The JPS car after light wet-sanding.
Pics 2 to 4. The white areas of the Gold Leaf car have been masked, including inside the rear wheel arches.
Pic 5. The primed scuttle, bonnet and nose cone of the Gold Leaf car have been lightly wet-sanded, to "flat" the surface, using worn 1200 grit "Wet and Dry", and then lightly polished with a micro-fibre polishing cloth, as were the primed areas on the main body. Just visible on the nose cone is a feint pencil line, marking the demarcation between the red and the gold areas, and it's intended to "feather" the red paint just beyond the pencil line, to avoid a ridge, and to give a better, "keyed" area for when the gold is sprayed. Once the red paint has fully hardened, masks will be applied, and any red in the areas to be painted gold will be sanded back, to ensure a smooth surface, vital for a metallic finish.

I'm just about o spray the red, and hope to have some pics tomorrow, when the parts are dry enough to move.


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Thanks, Wojtek and Snautzer.

Got the red sprayed on the Gold Leaf car, and it seems to have gone on quite nicely - better surface preparation ??
Being gloss enamel, it'll take a while to fully harden, so I'll leave this until tomorrow afternoon, then inspect it and, if required, give it another coat.
Pics below show the model so far. Apologies for the quality of the pics, and the "flare" in the nose cone image - mixed lighting.


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Looking great Terry, Whenever I spray large areas of gloss I always am frustrated because it never turns out ok. I guess that's why I seldom build car models . I had to go back and re-read your description after seeing that last picture. At first I though you had spilled some thinner on the hood or some other disaster.
 
Thanks chaps.

Yes Glenn, it can be tricky getting a good surface finish with large gloss areas. The paint needs to go on "wet", and the airbrush needs to move at the right speed and distance, in order to avoid a sort of fine "leather grain" effect on an otherwise smooth finish, all of which can be a bit "hit and miss" at times, depending on the paint mix (and the colour being used ).
I'd considered using matt enamels, and then building-up a gloss finish with clear gloss varnish, which I've done successfully in the past, but I decided in the end to go with the gloss paints.

I've now checked the finish on the red, and it appears to be fine, so I'll mask for the gold on the nose, and get that done later today - if my stiff and tender hands allow. A coat or two of clear gloss varnish will be applied later, which should increase the "depth" of the shine, and seal the decals, and at the same time "gloss" the Gold Leaf logos, which are matt finish decals.
But first, I need to spray a second coat of gloss black onto the JPS car.

All being well, I may have some more pics later tonight.
 
Thanks, Red Two.

And now, it's "Quiz of the Week" time, with fantastic prizes up for grabs !!

The object shown below is to be used to produce parts for one of the models - but what ?

First correct answer wins a day out in Macclesfield.
Second correct answer wins a week out in Macclesfield.

[ The competition organisers and their associates cannot accept any responsibility for any depression or other unpleasant side-effects brought on as a result of any prize winners' experience whilst "enjoying" their prize. Postal entries can only be accepted if written on the back of a £20 note. ]



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YES !!!
It will indeed be used to create the "bicycle" type mudguards over the front wheels of the Gold Leaf car, replacing the flowing "wings" of the standard-production Super 7.
The earlier "bicycle" type guards were fixed, but on most "7's" these days, and certainly on the Caterham 7, they are articulated, moving with the steering.
Due to the assembly method and sequence, and the small size of the support stays, it won't be practical to attempt to replicate the articulated type, so the ones on the model will be fixed.
Pic below shows the type of guards to be reproduced, these being the fixed type on a 1961 Super 7 ( pic - Internet, original source unknown.)


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