Good stuff Grant.
The 'Sport Mode' tends to almost 'freeze' movement, hence lack of prop 'blur'.
As a rule of thumb, match the shutter speed to the lens focal length, using Shutter Priority.
For example, if using a 200 mm lens, then set the shutter speed at around 1/200th to 1/250th sec, or slightly less if conditions allow.
I normally set my 'film' speed at ISO400 in average lighting conditions, and shoot at around 1/320th sec using a Nikon 300mm lens.
Using a higher ISO will allow slower shutter speeds, increasing 'blur' etc., but of course, for fast-moving subjects, it's normally better to use the slightly faster shutter speeds mentioned above, in order to capture sharper images of the subject itself, but still stop the props from 'freezing' and allow blur.
With digital imaging, using a higher ISO rating is not quite the same as in film, where 'grain' size increases with higher ISO ratings, so, where for example a film camera would be best suited at ISO 100 or ISO 200, it's quite acceptable to use ISO 400, or higher in some cases, without seeing 'noise' in the images, the equivalent of grain reproduction overall.
If shooting fast moving jets, then the same settings can be used, but, if time allows, you can change over to 'Auto', where the camera does the work for you, and will 'freeze' the action. As there are no whirly things, then you don't have to worry about capturing 'blur'.
I admit, I tend to keep my cameras on Shutter Priority, but sometimes change to Auto for jets - then forget to change back, and end up with beaut shots of Spitfires, but with 'frozen' props !!