New Revell 1/72 Avro Lancaster build.

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Have you seen Falcon's vacform set for the Airfix Lanc Terry? I'd be keen to hear your opinion on the accuracy of it.

Also to you and Ian especially...which has the more correct fueslage - the newer Airfix or new tool Revell kit? The Revell is wider aft of the mainplanes, with more pronounced profile. ( I suspect the Airfix myself, but aren't 100% sure...)
 
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Haven't seen the vac-form set Evan, but then I don't normally do 1/72nd scale these days. I think it's a mix of good and bad between the Revell and the Airfix kit. I've built a few of the Airix since it was released in the 1980's, and reckoned it was the best Lancaster overall, including the inaccurate Tamiya 1/48th. I got the Revell to see what it was like, and because it's generally regarded as the best kt these days. Overall, the Revell has more finesse, but it needs to be remembered how old the Airfix kit is now - very advanced in the '80's, a bit 'run of the mill' by today's standards. I think for general outline and accuracy of shape, the Airfix kit has it, but needs more work to detail it, whilst the Revell has the detail and the benefit of modern moulding processes, but has perhaps been let down by simplification of some areas, and over concentration of scale size parts in unseen areas. With a bit of work, the Revell kit would provide the overall better display model for detail, especially for diorama use, whilst the Airfix kit has the better 'out of the box' potential and, with more work, could be a real gem.
In summary, if a really good, fully detailed and accurate Lanc is required in 1/72nd scale, then combining the two kits, some surgery and extra detailing, would be the answer, so therefore it would be a Revfix !!
 
Thanks Terry! I suspected a mix of the two would be the answer...(always the way!)

My plan of attack then: Airfix kit, with an accurate PE or scratched interior, Falcon vac-form canopies and turrets, and certain details (main undercarriage legs and wells, props, etc) hocked from the Revell...

...Is there anything Airfix screwed up with the airframe that Revell got right?
 
Far as I remember, the Airfix engine nacelles are a little too narrow and shallow at the rad intakes, and the mid-upper turret is as per moulding of the day - i.e. a dome.
I think if I was going to do another in 1/72nd scale, and the cost of two kits to make one was not an issue, I'd probably combine parts of both fuselages, use the wing of the Revell, but altered at the outboard joint, and the Revell fins and undercart, and probably their transparencies. It would be a case of laying them out alongside each other, and seeing what mix is best.
If it was an out of the box build using one kit, it would probably be the Airfix, with a lot of scratch-building for the interior, and enhancement elsewhere. Can't see the point in shelling out for a PE interior when everything aft of the front section of the Nav station can't be seen, and most of the bomb aimers compartment is in shadow. I'd then use a vac-form transparency set, mainly for the upper turret.
 
Thanks Terry! I have both kits, so have the luxury of mixing and matching (that's why I have both).

By combining the two fueslages, I'm guessing Revell forward fues joined to the Airfix aft of the mainplane, with Revell tailplanes, and nose turret details as per Ian's?
 
Sounds about right Evan. I'd need to look at them side by side though. On the Revell kit, as per the Tamiya 1/48th kit, the size of the main entry door is wrong, being too deep.
 
I'm very suss on their rear fueslage width and profile as I mentioned...IF I can, I'll photograph the two together and post the pics, also of the Falcon clear vax canopy set which I have...

..."but now, we return you to your scheduled program - take it away Ian! (will someone stop that bloody kiwi hijacking the thread??!)"
 
Not done too much on it just lately, i have other serious problems in my mind just lately. The wings look loads better than being straight.

Terry i can never master the art of attaching clear Vac' parts any tip's ? I brought the Lancaster clear vac' parts and totally cocked up because i couldn't get them to fit nicely and using PVA glue is crap because one day you'll be holdin the model and forget about that clear part you stuck on with PVA, i use super glue to glue mine on and i ended up ripping it off and binning it.l




On the wings there are alot of lines which are just NOT on a lancaster so i filled them with 'tipex'








End result of fillering with tipex which must have to say is bloody good to sand down.








Cutting out the flaps was simple as the plastic is very thin and kept scoring along the lines with my knife until it fell off.








Cutting the upper wings, i brought myself a 'razor' saw to do this neatly and was quite scary.







Cutting the lower wings was even more tricky because this is a thin bit near the wheel well and it kept jumping up and down as i began cutting it.








When gluing the wings back together i followed as Ted Taylor did and added a piece of 10thou' plasticard to the lower wing only and glued the lower section of the wing first,then left over night to fully harden then attacked the upper section, i also put in all the frame work in the wheels wells to ensure everything was in align.








Not much to say here other than the four nacelles are finally finished.








I noticed yet another fault by revell and that is the rear of the outer nacelles are curved to much and when compared to the Airfix job and Avro's drawings Revell have cocked up again.





Lower PE flaps are very hard to put together neatly and not getting the glue all over the place is another story.

Thanks for viewing.

ian.
 
Nice work Ian, and I hope you're going to be alright mate.
For vac form canopies, or any other come to that, depending on shape and available location/attchment points, I vary my technique. If it's needed, and possible to do so, on a 'vac', I'll make a 'locating frame' from very thin plastic sheet. With or without this, the canopy is first fitted and held with PVA and allowed to set for at least 12 hours. Depending on how good the attachment area is, this should be as good as poly cement, but I will then add a thin bead of poly cement or liquid poly, and when this has set, seal the joint with another thin bead of PVA, wiping off the excess with a wet finger tip. This can then be painted over to match the surroundings, and the clear coats added to match the tones. The PVA, poly cement, then PVA and paint and clear coats make a really good, tough joint, and blend in well.
I sometimes use superglue, having first dipped or 'painted' the clear part in 'Klear' (Future) to avoid fogging from the fumes, but bear in mind this is a glue, not a cement, so the joint, although sound at first, can easily be broken by sudded pressure.
Hope this helps mate.
 
Well Guys,

I feel a bit better in myself for over a week now so i might just get down and finish this shite

Not much has been done since i last posted but those wings took some altering and finishing them up so they look good the join line was a pigs ear.
to complete infact i nearly binned it, The flaps caused me another problem ! i completed the lower ones and attached the upper flap brass section
and for some reason the little bits look like ribs went missing i cut them all off put them in a tiny bag and must have got chucked away


The wings look 100% better now and you can see the kink on the upper surface.







I've also fillered the edge where the nacelle butts up against the wing, this part was very time consuming but was well worth it, also note the better panel lines.








Yet to add ballance weights etc, most likely put them on when the fins are attached as i don't want to break the little bits off.






Drilled out the guns and attached the resin barrels, boy do these barrels look better than the Revell ones.







Top of my hate list has got to be painting the canopies i just hate it.









The completed lower flaps a few mistakes but will do me .


ian.
 
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Tony Hill said:
Great progress. And I love the canopy paint job, nicely done.
Click to expand...

Cheers Tony .

Not much of an update seeing as i lost quite a few pictures the other day anyway i've been putting that undercarriage together
and let me tell you that pushes your patience something wrotten to the point of having to alter parts just so i can fit the fiddly things !
all the undercarriage needs to be glued with super glue.



You can see how delicate the parts are and are very fragile infact the ends of the supports on mine broke off several times.






After about half an hour of trying to align the legs and supports i gave up because you have got to get the correct distance
between the main legs and supports and it just kept falling appart, so to combat this i removed a small section of plastic
and drilled out where the plastic was and replaced with brass rod i then drilled two holes in each support the end result
was a leg which i could move left/right without the hastle and was easy then to put the whole sections together.







You need to glue the supports one at a time and don't rush as these are very weak, when i glued my supports
i attached and glued them onto the main leg first then when it was dry glued them inside the wheel bay.



The part which is arrowed is quite fiddly to glue into place and this is best done holding the wing the correct way
up [so the undercarriage is facing down] this then allows that part to sit into the grooves and slots.






I did have pictures of how i glued the upper turret glass together but sadly i deleted it, anyway the clear sections are
split into two sections theres no need to try and glue these two halves but just tape them together and glue to the
base of the turret ring only, when its dried remove the tape and you'll be left with a neat/no glued/messed up turret.





For anyone who has difficulty in painting the rings on the nose blister i have a simple easy answer just
paint the ring roughly then wipe the wet paint off and your left with a nice ring, also paint the inside edge
of the nose blister this hides the clear edge and when you come to glue it onto the nose it looks neat and has
no clear inside edge which spoils the looks.




Rear shimmy wheel painted and also turns

Thanks for looking.
ian.
 
Nice work Ian. I know what you mean about the main undercart! it was a bit of a fiddle, but I managed to get mine together without problems, and it proved quite strong when set.
 
A4K said:
Nice work Ian! Hope you're doing better now mate.
Click to expand...

Hi Evan,

Feeling alot better just lately and not had any pains around my heart since the last one
so i hope i never get them again but you never know do you !Lets just hope i've got plenty
of years ahead of me, i've got too many Lanc' kits to build before i go

ian.
 
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