Painting canopy

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H

Hawk67

Recruit
1
0
Oct 15, 2013
Hey guys. I am pretty fustrated. Painting the canopy of my bf 109 has resulted in paint coming off when removing the mask. Before brush painting with Vallajo model paint I primed the canopy first. I am going nuts. For masking I use Tamyia masking tape. Watching you guys it is possible to make crisp and beautiful canopies. This is my second model after a 25 year break from modeling. Impatient.......me.....nooooo

Kind regards
Steen, Copenhagen
 
Peeling off is the main feature of all acrylic paints. Unfortunately it can happen to all. The reason for the effect is that the cockpit conopy wasn't washed up with a soap and warm water. However even priming with enamels the peeling may happen too. The good way for avoiding it , is to put a masked and painted conopy to warm water for a while. The masking tape starts to corrugate and its adhesive becomes more pliant what makes removing easier.
 
Because you're brushing, the paint could be to thick in application and hangs on to the tape, maybe?

Do you thin the paint at all before brushing?

My procedure;
I have my bottle of paint and bottle of thinner open on the bench.
I take some of the paint from the bottle with the brush and dab it in a tiny dish.
I dip the brush into the thinner, not stirring, to keep the paint out of the clean thinner. Just to get a small bit of thinner.
Mix with the paint in the dish.
Then apply to the canopy lines. Thin coats, a couple if you need density of color.

Peel the tape back at greater than 90 degrees away from All the edges slowly.

Food for thought. Hope it helps.
 
I agree with both the above. Also, if brush painting, make the first strokes of the brush towards the un-masked area, across the tape, then follow on by painting the line vertically or horizontally, depending on orientation. In this way, it avoids a build-up of too much paint against the edge of the tape, which causes a 'seal', liable to lift the rest of the paint when the mask is removed.
Also, when removing the mask or tape, do this in a gentle, continuous manner - not rapidly - maintaining tension on the 'loose' end of the tape or mask, keeping an angle of between 45 and 90 degrees.
 
I like to put on just enough paint to block the transparent surface of the canopy from showing through and then put on a layer of Humbrol matt coat, importantly I like to pull the masking off before the matt coat has fully hardened and has stuck to the tape. I always use enamels though.
 
After washing, dip the canopy into Future Floor wax, allow to dry completely 24hr min, then paint. Also I use Frog tape. It has a special adhesive which reacts with paint to prevent bleed. Also masking tapes themselves have various ratings for adhesive strength (1-100) and Day ratings for the adhesive (1 to 60day) to dry to the surface and thus leave a residue. Lastly rather than a brush I use either a paint stick or a permanent marker which come in metallic silver. Being careful you can "paint" without masking
 
Yes! that is the way.
If you are using acrylics, then the same thing! peel it off slowly and at an obtuse angle.
 
Last edited:
well, Im reading this thread with interest, because painting canopies is something I really struggle with. I try to organise my painting with a minium of masking applied, and I paint with a brush using dry brushing mostly. Dry brushing involves removing almost all the paint from the brush, for instance, running the brush over my hand doesnt show much paint application at all. i have to repeatedly run the brush over an area to register any effect.

Washing the canopy is really important, and wetting the masking before removal is a really good idea as well. There is no futures wax or polish in Australia, but by painful trial and error I have found the best alternative is to shine the canopy using a very mild car polish (I have the name at home). Anything like that you need to thoroughly test out on scrap before hand though.
 
Pasifal, In Australia the Future's past is long and convoluted. Originally it went under the name "Stride Right" or "Super Stride" then the name was changed to "Shine Magic" or "Super Shine". Then, in January 2002 the product was discontinued! Through inquiries to the S.C. Johnson distributor in N.S.W. I have learned of another product that is very similar to Future called "Pledge One Go". Peter Johnstone (a helpful Aussie modeler) has tested this product and reports that it works very well on clear parts and seems to be compatible with model paints and acrylics. He also reports that it demonstrates the wonderful self leveling properties that we see in Future and dries fairly quickly. Another option in Australia is "Pascoe's Long Life" which is an ammonia based product that behaves in a similar fashion to Future. "Pascoe's" was originally marketed under the name "Rekkit's" and can still be found under this name in the country areas. This product can cause acrylic paints to run if applied too heavily so it will be important to keep this in mind.
Now as to the "real stuff" Future can be ordered on line from various sources even directy from the company though Amazon.com is probably your best bet
 
Now Mike, I am surprised at you. Future is an acrylic sealer, not a wax.
I have touted you as "Mr. Science" many times on this forum, and now you have let me down!
 
Paul, Es tut mir sehr leid, twas a lapsus linguae. In actual fact SC Johnson calls ir a polish which it is also not AND it isn't called Future aymore either. It is now termed PLEDGE Floor Care Finish with Future Shine
 

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With a cleaned canopy or transparent part, a dip in Future gives a brilliant, crystal clear appearance, hence the use of the fluid.
However, always ensure that the part has had plenty of time to dry, at least 12 hours, after dipping, before applying any masks, as otherwise, the tape might lift parts of the Future when removed.
 
I haven't actually had a problem with Future lifting on canopies, although I don't always dip them anyway, but I have experienced lifting on painted plastic surfaces, if masks were applied too early.
Retouching shouldn't be a problem, and any 'patchy' look on the areas coated with Future can be 'repaired' by brushing more Future over the area.
 
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