Scratch build Boeing F4B-4 (2 Viewers)

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Next, the holes to the cardstock were measured & a small modeler's punch & die set was used to create holes.

Unlike the plastic strips, paper doesn't take to drills without making a mess with paper fibers scattered around the drilled holes.

The cardstock was then given final measurements & cut to size.
 

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Next, came the accessories. I'm using the fuse box & switches in this example.

I simply make a large image of the box using black colored paper & rub-on dry transfer letters from a local arts & crafts store. From there, I taped it into the door & stood at a distance taking various pictures I felt would result in a photo of the artwork of the correct size.

From there, I would go to a local outlet where I could convert my digital images into glossy photos.

I admit it's time-consuming but it yields very high quality image that is much better than printing off of a printer. Even the tiny letters can easily be seen & read with clarity. I found this out the hardway when building & detailing my Mustang. So I learned from that experience & applied what works for me here.

The picture was then cut out of the photo & folded to size, glued & some wires were added to complete the setup.

I used this method throughout the cockpit build & got great results.
 

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The throttle was given the same treatment as the rest of the accessories. The image of the large paper throttle in my hand is actually from my old Mustang photo collection as I forgot to take a close up photo of the Boeing one.
 

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Ultimately the throttle was removed as I kept knocking it off during handling. It will be glued back in place just prior to installing the cockpit coaming.
 
I like seeing new ideas and modifications of old ideas in your work. Where, or more accurately, what kind of shop does the photo work for the pieces you use on throttle, elec panel, etc.
That idea works well. At present, I am building an F11C-2 from a very old plan. At the time the plan was drawn, controlline model fuselages were often carved from a large balsa block. Since balsa is now very expensive and I have no desire to whittle on a large block, the templates were used as patterns to cut formers and bond them to a central keel. As you can guess, the plane will have to withstand "normal" flight stress and landing, therefore much of what you put inside yours would be too fragile. When I run into an obstacle, I usually postpone the next steps, so watching you may solve some problems.
 
Very impressed with the skills here and curious about the letters you are using, they look similar to what I know as Letraset which was a common product in the 70s and 80s. Is this what you are still using!
 
Good hearing from you & glad to know some of my ideas or techniques are holding your interest. I'll be more than happy to give a blow-by-blow series of the steps I took for making the throttle quadrant.

Insofar as modifying from a solid block to a more lightweight plank on keel/former construction, I can only offer suggestions.

The Curtiss F11C-2 sounds to be a very interesting biplane with open wheel spats. I believe the navy later re-designated it as BFC-2. If so, I have dozens upon dozens of detailed b+w photos of this aircraft up close & personal.

Let me know if interested.

Cheers,

Gary

Special Ed:
Mi don't know how far you've come on your F11C-2 (BFC-2) but there are plans of various scales out there for you to start directly on the plank on former/keel method of construction.
 

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