Vintage Monogram gluing

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pinehilljoe

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May 1, 2016
I've started a vintage SBD, and Tamiya glue is not working like a modern kit. I've built a Typhoon recently and it seemed to work fine. Anyone experience modern Tamiya glues not working old Monogram kits?
 
Built a Revell P-39 a couple of years ago without problem, original moulds 1969 but they may have been cleaned up and used different plastic since then. Also the gimicky 1963 Hellcat and the glue worked okay
 
Built a Revell P-39 a couple of years ago without problem, original moulds 1969 but they may have been cleaned up and used different plastic since then. Also the gimicky 1963 Hellcat and the glue worked okay
I'll try Plastruct tomorrow.
 
I've never had any problem with "regular" glue on Monogram kits, but some of the Bob Smith Industries super glue (from Hobby Lobby) was way too hot for a Monogram Harrier I was working on. It actually caused an area of the fuselage I was working on to crumble. Thankfully a friend had a kit he wasn't going to build and passed it on to me.
I also had the same experience with a Classic Airframes Venom when I tried to attach a resin bit.
 
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Crumbling implies the solvent destroying the polymer bonds. This happens when using chlorinated solvents on plastics. Had a 1975 AMC Pacer—worst car ever made, but that's another topic—and the door panels were one-piece molded plastic, and they were coming loose. The mechanic used some thread lock that had something in it that caused crumbling. When I picked the car up, the panel was not only loose, but destroyed with cracks radiating from every screw. They ordered a new panel, and par for the course, when it came in, was for the wrong door. I fixed lawnmowers in my garage many moons ago and had parts cleaner (chlorinated solvent). I broke a jar with some oil in it and used the solvent to clean it up. When I was sweeping it into a plastic dust pan with a plastic-bodied brush, the brush fell to pieces in my hand. Tamiya glue is ethyl acetate and is not chlorinated as far as I know.
 

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