1:1 Spitfire K9817 Cockpit Build

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A quick holiday and a chance to get some more done. Starting to come together and look like a Spitfire pump.

The lift to disengage mechanism for the Valve Handle. A custom machined main pin, knob adaptor and "bullet nosed" stop pin, all needing either tapping or cutting a thread, four rivets and 4 bolts, two springs and a large washer. The body of the handle is drilled with four different widths/depths to make the knob liftable and lockable. Still some cleaning up of lathe marks etc to do.


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The handle frame will be "bogged" to simulate a solid cast item.


The first semi complete test fit of the new valve handle and the freshly bent main pump handle. We could not get the small radius bend on inch pipe so I had to settle for half inch which I have put PVC around and will seal it and paint it.

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Finally, an idea of scale. This is the first item F-16 OR Spitfire that I have dealt with that is actually BIGGER than I thought it would be. Everything else some how has felt smaller. Mine, then P9374

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With 3 days of holidays left, I'm hoping to have it installed by the time I go back to work!
 
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I seem to have missed the last installment ..... bl**dy nice work overall Darryl.
I had to look twice at the first pic, as I thought it was a real Spitfire cockpit !
 
Thanks guys!!!!

More teasers...Things did not really go to plan and in the end I had zero chance to complete it in the holiday...


The main handle has been completed. I elected to ditch the PVC pipe outer as it was bunching up and just didn't look right. Instead I used 2 aluminium outer pipes, long length at the top, short at the base and cut and slotted aluminium rings to cover the bend. This was then filed down, sanded and covered in a good layer of car bog, which was then sanded to a smooth, even diameter. A lot of messing about but well worth it in the end.

You'll also note that the top pump cylinder and push rod mount has now been finished and this really changes the look of the front of the old Anson Pump. Next job will be to grind off the two rings on the handle receiver and extend the receiver itself by about an inch out over the handle. After that, unless you put the pump and a real one side by side, it will be much more difficult to tell them apart.

I have also remade the smaller handle... well, actually turned it down so that a standard aluminium pipe section would fit over it, then bogged, filed and sanded the frame and handle (pictures of that bit later).

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I was asked by someone HOW the pump was going to be implemented in sim and I thought some people here might like the explanation or get some ideas for other 1:1 build interfaces.

So here goes:


The top cylinder piston will rest against a "break to make " limit switch. As the handle is moved forward the piston will move off the limit, breaking the connection and the switch will close and the signal be sent to " pump ". That signal will remain active until the stroke is completed on the pump handle and that, if pumped at a normal speed, will be about the time it takes the in sim pump handle to move through one stroke (hence the need for the break to make circuit.)

The bottom cylinder, the "real" one, has a heavy spring inserted in the rear, giving resistance to the pump handle and holding it upright when at rest. Mimicking the hydraulics nicely.

The valve handle will probably have the locking pin wires run forward to a pulley, looping back and mounted on the front bulkhead. Attached to the pulley will be a cam which will close another limit switch when the gear position is selected as down.

That switch will send a "down" offset when closed and an "up" offset on opening. This will mean that the joystick button allocated will only be on when the gear is down...leaving the system less loaded during flight.


Wiring will therefore be able to be run as per the real unit's "up light" circuit switch which is mounted on the rear and operated by a tyne which comes off the locking pin lever and engages when gear is in the raised position. THAT switch in sim will actually not be needed and the wiring will run in through the side of a fake switch into the rear of the unit and on to the "pump" limit switch.....see, simple
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A LOT of planning and designing and about 30 individual parts make up the pump assembly!
 

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