1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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each to his own...
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I like it! As to the bias against panel line shading, I think it was often overdone with the result looking like a checkerboard. To me there are dozens of different paths to a desired look. The only "right" one is the one that works for you.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I do the preshade often as well but subtle is the key.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Indeed, and when done carefully it does yield a very nice look! Unfortunately my level of skill is not quite there yet, but it is getting better!
Looks great so far John!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
I am ready to appreciate the effect you achieve with camouflage. I'll take notes !!
Saludos.
Saludos.
- Thread starter
- #488
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments guys!
I couldn't get to the workbench yesterday due to extra hours at work. But fortunately, I have this Friday off so it's time to finish up my mottle pre-shade.
It looks really funky right now but (hopefully) you'll see how this prep work enhances the camo finish. Carlos used the word "rough" and I think he meant it in a different way but I'd like to point out that this dense mottle pattern is laid down with a highly thinned gloss black and should be glass smooth. There should be no texture to this finish whatsoever.
As you can see, I've also darkened some of the areas that I've previously mentioned. This technique will give me the ability to control the pre-shading effect from very obvious to subtle and all the way to zero, if I want to eliminate it all together.
My only worry at this stage is the hairspray layer that is over the metal finish. Ideally, I like to do the chipping on a single color over the metal and do it within a few days after the hairspray applied. Due to my schedule, it will be a week or more of elapsed time AND I'll be trying to chip through 2-3 layers of paint over the metal. If it is not successful, I can do the chipping using another method.
I couldn't get to the workbench yesterday due to extra hours at work. But fortunately, I have this Friday off so it's time to finish up my mottle pre-shade.
It looks really funky right now but (hopefully) you'll see how this prep work enhances the camo finish. Carlos used the word "rough" and I think he meant it in a different way but I'd like to point out that this dense mottle pattern is laid down with a highly thinned gloss black and should be glass smooth. There should be no texture to this finish whatsoever.
As you can see, I've also darkened some of the areas that I've previously mentioned. This technique will give me the ability to control the pre-shading effect from very obvious to subtle and all the way to zero, if I want to eliminate it all together.
My only worry at this stage is the hairspray layer that is over the metal finish. Ideally, I like to do the chipping on a single color over the metal and do it within a few days after the hairspray applied. Due to my schedule, it will be a week or more of elapsed time AND I'll be trying to chip through 2-3 layers of paint over the metal. If it is not successful, I can do the chipping using another method.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Very nice. And for what it is worth, I have successfully chipped with hairspray a month after application albeit only with 2 intervening layers of paint.
- Thread starter
- #491
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Good to know Robert! I keep smelling the hairspray fragrance when spraying the black mottling over it so I know it is still there!
- Thread starter
- #492
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Alrighty then... the preshading is finished and now it's time to start applying the camo colors. I'm going to go the traditional route and do the lighter colors first. This means RLM 76 on the bottom and sides. I've already made my own mix of RLM 76 using Tamiya Acrylics. This pres-hading technique works best with highly thinned paint. I use a thinner
aint ratio of about 4:1. It is very watery and it takes a bit of patience to build up the finish but it gives me the most control in dialing in my pre-shade effect and it goes on ultra smooth. The negative is that highly-thinned acrylic is very delicate and is easily scratched. I'm using a old but clean cotton t-shirt on my work surface to help reduce scratching. I also use a latex glove on my left hand to prevent oily fingerprints from marring the finish.
Starting in a small area, I start laying down the RLM 76. It's important to always keep the airbrush moving to prevent pooling of the watery paint. You can see scratches on the black pre-shading but they are small enough not to warrant repair.
I work gradually outwards, making sure to look at the finish from different angles to make sure that I am getting the effect that I want. I work each panel separately, generally spraying more paint on the inner portions of the panel than the edges.
I am looking for a very subtle irregularity underlying the RLM 76 to give the paint some tonal variation/depth. This is a fun step because it will begin to reveal some previously hidden work such as the riveting and panel line re-scribing.
Jumping over to the tail stabilizers, you can see the gradual build-up of RLM 76. Paint mix and patience are the keys here.
It's better to apply less paint than too much. If you want to reduce the pre-shading effects, you can always add more paint but it is very difficult to go backwards and restore any lost pre-shading effect because of too much paint.
This is where I've temporarily stopped to take a break for lunch.
aint ratio of about 4:1. It is very watery and it takes a bit of patience to build up the finish but it gives me the most control in dialing in my pre-shade effect and it goes on ultra smooth. The negative is that highly-thinned acrylic is very delicate and is easily scratched. I'm using a old but clean cotton t-shirt on my work surface to help reduce scratching. I also use a latex glove on my left hand to prevent oily fingerprints from marring the finish.Starting in a small area, I start laying down the RLM 76. It's important to always keep the airbrush moving to prevent pooling of the watery paint. You can see scratches on the black pre-shading but they are small enough not to warrant repair.
I work gradually outwards, making sure to look at the finish from different angles to make sure that I am getting the effect that I want. I work each panel separately, generally spraying more paint on the inner portions of the panel than the edges.
I am looking for a very subtle irregularity underlying the RLM 76 to give the paint some tonal variation/depth. This is a fun step because it will begin to reveal some previously hidden work such as the riveting and panel line re-scribing.
Jumping over to the tail stabilizers, you can see the gradual build-up of RLM 76. Paint mix and patience are the keys here.
It's better to apply less paint than too much. If you want to reduce the pre-shading effects, you can always add more paint but it is very difficult to go backwards and restore any lost pre-shading effect because of too much paint.
This is where I've temporarily stopped to take a break for lunch.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Lovin' it John.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Very nice effect! What do you thin with? The Tamiya thinner or something else?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looking good John.
great stuff John....
Great work so far John!
- Thread starter
- #499
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I thin Tamiya acrylics with 91% iso alcohol from the drug store. Works very well.
Ok... I'm on a roll now. After sitting on the pre-paint stage for weeks, I've suddenly got a whole day free to spend on the workbench and I am making the most of the opportunity. Didn't even go fishing this morning!
After lunch, I filled in the RLM 76 up the sides of the fuselage. I've left the pre-shading effect pretty heavy on the tail. After the camo has been applied, the tail, along with the underside of the engine cowling, will be painted yellow.
The light blue is slowly crept up the sides, one panel at a time.
I've actually gone too far with the RLM 76. I should've kept the spine unpainted for the future 82/83 colors.
On the port side now, starting from the front.
I primarily use black for my pre-shading but I'm sure you could get different effects/results if you used different colors.
As you can see this technique lends a very interesting irregularity to the paint finish.
My preference is for a subtle effect but I run the risk of having this effect "crushed" by the upcoming application of 82/83. Brighter/darker/contrasting colors will reduce the perception of the mottle pattern and this is something that you have to consider when applying the lighter color.
We are just about done with the RLM 76.
When looking at the model from afar, you won't be able to discern either the riveting work nor the pre-shading effects.
A closer look will reveal those details.
I'm going to let this cure for a while before proceeding to the next step. In addition to the 82/83 Greens on top, I have to think about the black-white fuselage stripe and the yellow tail and cowling.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Very nicely done! I love the effect and the method!
