Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks good. The 82 was painted over the original factory applied RLM 75. Wondering if you'll show some wear of the 82 down to the factory coat?
1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
This is the best part! Painting! Loving the work!
Lovely work so far John!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
...
- Thread starter
- #466
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments guys. The hint about hairspray on a matte finish is noted, Kirby. And Andy... I've thought about the 82 over the 75 but haven't decided whether or not reflect that externally. Maybe some traces of it on the borders between the two colors?
A little bit of work on the canopy. After doing some light chipping to the greens using a damp paintbrush, I elected to show some fading wear using the salt method. One tricky thing about the salt method is the excess salt. Small remnants of salt can go white, especially after a flat coat is applied.
Since the white is under a flat coat, I am assuming that it cannot be removed so I must use the green colors to fix.
Inching onwward to painting, I've applied some white Milliput to the windscreen/fuselage join.
A little bit of work on the canopy. After doing some light chipping to the greens using a damp paintbrush, I elected to show some fading wear using the salt method. One tricky thing about the salt method is the excess salt. Small remnants of salt can go white, especially after a flat coat is applied.
Since the white is under a flat coat, I am assuming that it cannot be removed so I must use the green colors to fix.
Inching onwward to painting, I've applied some white Milliput to the windscreen/fuselage join.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks great John. With the 75 underneath, I was thinking more that if you chip the 82, it would show the 75 before the bare metal.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Great work John 
. I've found sometimes you can get rid of that post-salt white with light scrubbing with a moistened stiff brush.
. I've found sometimes you can get rid of that post-salt white with light scrubbing with a moistened stiff brush.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Great work John.
- Thread starter
- #472
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments, guys! For many varied reasons, I have not had a chance to progress on Red 1 for a long period of time. Summer has been very busy for me, which is a good thing. When I last left the Dora, I had prepared it for painting by masking all of the openings. And on Sunday afternoon, I finally had some time to sit at my modeling bench for a bit. The base metal coat for chipping purposes was laid down along the fuselage sides and wing root area. I used Tamiya AS-12 Silver, which I "decant" from a spray can (another word for spraying the paint messily into the cup of my airbrush).
I will let this cure and then spray a couple coats of hairspray on to it before proceeding with the camo colors. Short update, I know but the project IS moving forward again!
I will let this cure and then spray a couple coats of hairspray on to it before proceeding with the camo colors. Short update, I know but the project IS moving forward again!
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
YES! Nice to see it going again!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Usually happens John, but the important thing is your return.
Attentive to the process of painting.
Saludos amigo.
Attentive to the process of painting.
Saludos amigo.
Great work so far John!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Inch by inch.
- Thread starter
- #479
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Sorry for the lack of work on this one! Life has been very busy for us this summer, especially with my daughter moving off to college. Hopefully, I'll get back into the swing of things shortly. Andy... read your comment about the RLM75 peeking through the RLM 82. Not sure if I'll be using chipping to show that. I'm leery of doing multi-layer chipping on this one. However, I may show traces of the 75 at a some of the 82/83 borders.
- Thread starter
- #480
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
After a few coats of hairspray were sprayed onto the silver and allowed to dry, I can continue on the pre-shading. I've heard some modelers argue against pre-shading panel lines but I like the results that it gives me. I also quite enjoy the act of tracing the panel lines with an airbrush... I find it therapeutic. It also forces me to look carefully at all of the model surfaces and I can catch some missed errors this way.
The next step is something that I've come up with to give the camo finish some depth and irregularity. I guess you could consider it the inverse of black-basing, which I was trying to emulate. But instead of painting the whole model black and then scribbling the lighter colors on top, I scribble black on top of light. I'll also darken certain wear and stain areas such as gun troughs, ammo chutes, the centerline bottom, exhaust area, etc.
The process takes a bit of time and tonight's session was ended here after my trigger finger started cramping up. I'll finish the pre-shading at the next workbench session and then I can start on the camo colors!
The next step is something that I've come up with to give the camo finish some depth and irregularity. I guess you could consider it the inverse of black-basing, which I was trying to emulate. But instead of painting the whole model black and then scribbling the lighter colors on top, I scribble black on top of light. I'll also darken certain wear and stain areas such as gun troughs, ammo chutes, the centerline bottom, exhaust area, etc.
The process takes a bit of time and tonight's session was ended here after my trigger finger started cramping up. I'll finish the pre-shading at the next workbench session and then I can start on the camo colors!
