Crimea_River
Marshal
I probably would have squirted more on but nice work anyway.
1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
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- Thread starter
- #502
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Makes sense since you are not a practitioner of black-basing or mottled pre-shading.
Based on my past experiences, this effect will be further reduced with the application of the other camo colors and the high-contrast markings. In other words, I am purposefully leaving the pre-shading effect a tad heavy to account for what is to come. Or so I hope!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
I am taking note, John 
; the experience you have, if you have done it before, gives you the guideline.
I'm not the one who says it best, but I think it's better to be a little short on the amount of paint, than to exceed and cover all the desired effect. The first has a solution and you can improve it, but the second is history!
It's a painting job that I like so far; I am anxious to see the result of this stage.
; the experience you have, if you have done it before, gives you the guideline. I'm not the one who says it best, but I think it's better to be a little short on the amount of paint, than to exceed and cover all the desired effect. The first has a solution and you can improve it, but the second is history!
It's a painting job that I like so far; I am anxious to see the result of this stage.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I have been doing it on some recent builds John (Beaufighter for example) but I get what you are saying.
Looks great so far John!
- Thread starter
- #506
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Ah yes, I did not remember that one! My apologies!
Yes! That is always a consideration. With this type of work, it is always better to fall short than to go to far.I am taking note, John
I'm not the one who says it best, but I think it's better to be a little short on the amount of paint, than to exceed and cover all the desired effect. The first has a solution and you can improve it, but the second is history!
It's a painting job that I like so far; I am anxious to see the result of this stage.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice work John. I think you've got it about right even though it does look a bit stark now. Any filters, washes, oil work, and other weathering effects still to be applied will progressively tone it down. And even if it's still a bit stark at the end you can adjust offending areas with a few light passes of heavily thinned base coat colour.Makes sense since you are not a practitioner of black-basing or mottled pre-shading.
- Thread starter
- #508
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comments guys!
I did a little more work on Black 1. I've sprayed the port wing root and the outlines of the upper surface camo pattern with RLM 75. Dora Number 210003 was repainted during her long career and I'm trying capture some of that in this build. The upper surfaces of 210003 were originally in RLM 75 Grey Violet and RLM 83 Dark Green. When 210003 became Black 1, the upper surfaces were converted to RLM 82 Light Green and RLM 83 Dark Green.
I want to show hints of RLM 75 peeking through the oversprayed RLM 82 and the most likely place where this would show up would be at the wing roots where most of the paint wear occurred (Thanks for the suggestion Andy!). The starboard wing roots will be in RLM 83 Dark Green so there would be no RLM 75 underneath. The port wing root will RLM 82 over the RLM 75 so I'm going to do two-layer chipping here to expose both the airframe metal AND RLM 75. The RLM 75 is allowed to dry first.
Water will dissolve the hairspray layer between the metal color and the RLM 75. Brushing small amounts of water over the area using a stiff paint brush, irregular patches of RLM 75 become dislodged, revealing the metal color underneath... a very convincing paint chipping effect.
I'll allow this little patch to dry and then I'll seal it with a clear coat. Afterwards, I'll put on another layer of hairspray so that I can chip away the top color of RLM 82. This should reveal a little of the airframe metal and the RLM 75.
I lost a little bit of focus during this step which resulted in some staining of the RLM 76 on the fuselage sides that is visible in the photos. There is an even bigger stain on the starboard fuselage that I'll have to repair next before moving on.
I did a little more work on Black 1. I've sprayed the port wing root and the outlines of the upper surface camo pattern with RLM 75. Dora Number 210003 was repainted during her long career and I'm trying capture some of that in this build. The upper surfaces of 210003 were originally in RLM 75 Grey Violet and RLM 83 Dark Green. When 210003 became Black 1, the upper surfaces were converted to RLM 82 Light Green and RLM 83 Dark Green.
I want to show hints of RLM 75 peeking through the oversprayed RLM 82 and the most likely place where this would show up would be at the wing roots where most of the paint wear occurred (Thanks for the suggestion Andy!). The starboard wing roots will be in RLM 83 Dark Green so there would be no RLM 75 underneath. The port wing root will RLM 82 over the RLM 75 so I'm going to do two-layer chipping here to expose both the airframe metal AND RLM 75. The RLM 75 is allowed to dry first.
Water will dissolve the hairspray layer between the metal color and the RLM 75. Brushing small amounts of water over the area using a stiff paint brush, irregular patches of RLM 75 become dislodged, revealing the metal color underneath... a very convincing paint chipping effect.
I'll allow this little patch to dry and then I'll seal it with a clear coat. Afterwards, I'll put on another layer of hairspray so that I can chip away the top color of RLM 82. This should reveal a little of the airframe metal and the RLM 75.
I lost a little bit of focus during this step which resulted in some staining of the RLM 76 on the fuselage sides that is visible in the photos. There is an even bigger stain on the starboard fuselage that I'll have to repair next before moving on.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Chipping came out perfectly! You know it got me to thinking, how on earth did the person that first used this method even think of it? Was it an accidental discovery? My mind boggles at trying to figure out how they figured it out?
But however that happened, you have outdone yourself in its application! I really really like the results! I think your whole concept of basically replicating the layers that would have been on the actual aircraft is excellent!
But however that happened, you have outdone yourself in its application! I really really like the results! I think your whole concept of basically replicating the layers that would have been on the actual aircraft is excellent!
Great work so far John!
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice work John, that's gonna look great! 
Look forward to seeing the finished product. Out of interest, did you use hairspray or the Mig chipping fluid this time?
Robert, the hairspray method is credited to Philip Stutcinskas and has been further developed by Mike Rinaldi. I believe it was a rational discovery as hairspray dries clear and hard (to hold hair) but is subsequently water soluble (to wash out afterwards), so is perfect for this application. There are probably other substances that also fulfil these criteria but hairspray is cheap and convenient to get (steal from the missus) and non-toxic. In any event, it was good thinking!
Look forward to seeing the finished product. Out of interest, did you use hairspray or the Mig chipping fluid this time?Robert, the hairspray method is credited to Philip Stutcinskas and has been further developed by Mike Rinaldi. I believe it was a rational discovery as hairspray dries clear and hard (to hold hair) but is subsequently water soluble (to wash out afterwards), so is perfect for this application. There are probably other substances that also fulfil these criteria but hairspray is cheap and convenient to get (steal from the missus) and non-toxic. In any event, it was good thinking!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
...looks great and you are just starting
Impressed...!
- Thread starter
- #515
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for watching this guys! I know it's been a long road on this one. Kirby... I used good ole hairspray on this one instead of the MIG fluid. Considering the limited use of the MIG stuff, I find myself liking hairspray better. Gives the build a nice fragrance too.
The painting on Black 1 continues. First I want to fix the stains that were created during the chipping process. Here is the big drip on the starboard side. Like Alien acid blood, it seems to have eaten through to the hairspray layer at the wingroot.
After verifying that the stain caused no marring on the surface, I prep the area by spraying around the stain with Tamiya Neutral Grey.
A little bit of black is scribbled onto the grey.
Finally, the RLM 76 is sprayed over the "patch". Can't even tell right?
The staining on the port side was comparatively minor and I decided to forgo the base treatment and see if a judicious spraying of RLM 76 would suffice. Inadvertent staining is not always a bad thing and can sometimes be incorporated into the build as long as the mistake "fits" the build.
A little bit of RLM 76 was enough to fix the port side.
After the repairs, I sprayed the port wing root with hairspray for the next chipping layer. While that dried, I thought I'd spray on some RLM 82 Light Green onto the upper wings using the previously sprayed lines as a guide. I'm hoping that a few spots of RLM 75 will show through at the border of the RLM 82/83.
A closer look at the RLM 82 sprayed onto the wings.
The painting on Black 1 continues. First I want to fix the stains that were created during the chipping process. Here is the big drip on the starboard side. Like Alien acid blood, it seems to have eaten through to the hairspray layer at the wingroot.
After verifying that the stain caused no marring on the surface, I prep the area by spraying around the stain with Tamiya Neutral Grey.
A little bit of black is scribbled onto the grey.
Finally, the RLM 76 is sprayed over the "patch". Can't even tell right?
The staining on the port side was comparatively minor and I decided to forgo the base treatment and see if a judicious spraying of RLM 76 would suffice. Inadvertent staining is not always a bad thing and can sometimes be incorporated into the build as long as the mistake "fits" the build.
A little bit of RLM 76 was enough to fix the port side.
After the repairs, I sprayed the port wing root with hairspray for the next chipping layer. While that dried, I thought I'd spray on some RLM 82 Light Green onto the upper wings using the previously sprayed lines as a guide. I'm hoping that a few spots of RLM 75 will show through at the border of the RLM 82/83.
A closer look at the RLM 82 sprayed onto the wings.
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
This is a splendid teaching on how to properly repair an accident (like when an alien bleeds on our model !!)
Very good job John, as you have accustomed us.
Very good job John, as you have accustomed us.
- Thread starter
- #518
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks Luis! Your comments are always appreciated! Work on Black 1 will be slightly delayed as I have a season-ending trip to my favorite Barrett Lake this Saturday. I'll be resuming the paint work sometime next week.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Ha, agreed! After playing with the Mig chipping fluid for a bit I've reverted to hairspray - it's just easier to use and performs better. Goes to show, these new products are not always better than the homemade originals. And the smell is a nice change from turps, lacquer thinner, etc!
