1/48 Hasegawa Ki-84 Hayate

Thanks for the info and pics George! I'll keep the hinomarus essentially chip-free then but will probably do some pre and post shading since they will be masked and painted. The pictures are informative and give me a better idea of where the high traffic areas where chipping is more likely to have occurred.

Very good results with hairspray John , as you say, it looks easier and with better control.

In my Nakajima "Rufe" I applied for the first time the method of salt and I think I just got the results I expected , but is slower and you can not have real control of the area that you want to detail. The hydroplane I have it in process (now dabbling in how to solder pins to simulate the stairs ).

But in my P-47 I hope attempting shipping with hairspray. (BTW, I am a little delayed in upload photos ... )

I follow with great interest your process which will be excellent reference.

Saludos,

LC
SANCER

SANCER said:

Very good results with hairspray John , as you say, it looks easier and with better control.

In my Nakajima "Rufe" I applied for the first time the method of salt and I think I just got the results I expected , but is slower and you can not have real control of the area that you want to detail. The hydroplane I have it in process (now dabbling in how to solder pins to simulate the stairs ).

But in my P-47 I hope attempting shipping with hairspray. (BTW, I am a little delayed in upload photos ... )

I follow with great interest your process which will be excellent reference.

Saludos,

LC
SANCER

Click to expand...

Thank you! I just looked at your Rufe and P-47 builds... great work Luis! I don't know if you are interested, but I recently built a 1/48 Thunderbolt in the MTO Group Build and used the hairspray method for chipping. Based on archived pictures of P-47's, I wanted to show both chromate yellow-green and metal chipping so there were a few more steps to that chipping process.



The chipping is described in Page 7 of the following thread...

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/-2...mediterranean-theater-operations-42013-7.html

Looks great so far!

Looking very good John. I too am just learning the hairspray technique and I 'm thinking that you need to get at the chipping soon after the paint has gone on. I think, though, that the success of the technique is also very sensitive to the paint thickness, which stands to reason but it means taking care to ensure that minimal paint is laid down where you want the chipping to occur. Ironically, I find that I get a larger paint thickness at wing fillets because of the concave shape and that is exactly where I want the most chipping to happen.

On my Hurricane, the paint on the Middle Stone, which I applied yesterday, came off readily but the Dark Earth, which was applied OVER the Middle Stone, took a lot more effort.

Thanks Andy! I think you're right but be careful attacking your finish too soon. I've run into the situation where the paint comes off too easily and in bigger chunks than I anticipated and it is next to impossible to recover once you've removed paint. Although it took a LONG time, I'm happy with the level of fineness of this chipping job and I think it had to do with some of the factors that you mention.

This might help.

Technique: Multi-Layer Chipping | Doogs' Models

He used it on this, which I'll be following come February:

Painting Tamiya's 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair | Doogs' Models

JKim said:

Thank you! I just looked at your Rufe and P-47 builds... great work Luis! I don't know if you are interested, but I recently built a 1/48 Thunderbolt in the MTO Group Build and used the hairspray method for chipping. Based on archived pictures of P-47's, I wanted to show both chromate yellow-green and metal chipping so there were a few more steps to that chipping process.

The chipping is described in Page 7 of the following thread...

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/-2...mediterranean-theater-operations-42013-7.html

Click to expand...

Thank you for visiting the worckbenchs.

I was about to advance the P-47 but ... I just spent over an hour enjoying and learning from your wonderful work in your "The Wog" ... !!!
Pufff !! I hope to achieve half of those great details you spent at your bird.
It's amazing the unconditional support of friends-fellow of the forum with amazing images and always timely tips !!

I am now convinced employ the technique of hair spray.

Greetings friend.

SANCER

Catch22 said:

This might help.

Technique: Multi-Layer Chipping | Doogs' Models

He used it on this, which I'll be following come February:

Painting Tamiya's 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair | Doogs' Models

Click to expand...

Yes, Doog's Corsair build at LSP is where I picked up the multi-layer chipping method! I'm sure I mentioned him in my Thunderbolt build.

Now that the primary painting/chipping is done, it's time for the markings. Montex provides masks for the national markings and decals for the individual markings. They also provide markings for some of the line work on the upper wings, which I utilized.


The bottom hinomarus come next... they are the easiest since they don't have white borders. I like to put pieces of paper on the edges of the mask. This makes it much easier to handle and place the mask accurately.


A little pre-shading... red paint never covers well so it's best to be subtle here.


After the red goes on, we have one meatball done!


The top one is treated similarly. Pre-shading after the mask is placed.


On goes the red. I guess you can do this in different ways but I chose to apply the white borders last.


After the red, the mask remains in place and you put on the inner circle and spray the white. White actually covers fairly well so this works well enough. The hardest part is placing the inner circle in the center without any reference marks to try and ensure an even border all the way around.


I did the hinomarus in pairs so that the masks don't get messed up. Bottom wings first, upper wings second and fuselage last.



The drop tanks have been painted three times so far and I haven't liked the results. This time I use a random pre-shading pattern just to give the tank finish some depth.


This time I'm trying light green (yellow, dark grey and light grey were scrapped). No chipping on these guys as they were usually made of wood or bamboo.


The Montex decals are thin and behave well with the Microset/Microsol treatment. I won't permanently attach the front cowling until most of the weathering is done.



Time for a dirt bath! I use chalk pastels scraped into a small cup. I add a drop of dishwashing soap to break the surface tension of the water (makes it easier to mix) and a bit of water. A small brush is used to run the wash into all of the panel lines. No need to be neat or careful... it doesn't affect the paint and can be wiped completely clean.


I wait for the wash to complete dry before wiping it away using small, lightly dampened pieces of paper towel. The result should be highlighted details and a little bit of dirty streaks all over the aircraft.


Top gets the same treatment but a different color wash (black versus brown) since the camo is dark.

Awesome skills!

Yeah, that looks fantastic.

All of the bits and pieces have been pre-painted so it is just a matter of sticking them on. I don't like the polycap method that Hasegawa has chosen to attach the main landing gear. It should be secure and permanent IMO, especially since the inner doors are not removable.

Anyways... this Hayate is just about complete!









The only thing left is to attach the wing lights, which are the smallest clear parts I've ever seen. I'll wrap it up with a more complete set of pictures soon.

Smashing work...

That looks awesome John, now you've got me wanting to build another one...

Amazing finish John.

Fantastic model and outstanding pictures!

Great job, John! You definitely have another winner there!

Real nice john.