1/48 Heinkel He-111 (1 Viewer)

[Airframes]

Nice work Luis.
Note that all the instrument panels were in RLM 66, and the smaller, vertical panel, to the left of the pilot, in front of the control column, was a later addition, not fitted to the H-3 and H-4 series. This has been included in the Monogram kits as they issue the same basic parts for all their versions of the He-111.

 

[SANCER]

I see. How are you going to repair the windows there?

Thank you Wojtek for the interest and for asking. It's something that I've been thinking since Chad's choice, so I submit it to all of you.

First on the original fuselage of the kit (as it is with the windows open on my first attempt), I'm going to put an adhesive sheet, to "trace" the silhouette of the two panels (because each window is on a panel).
An important point to consider in the part of the fuselage that joins the transparent part of the "greenhouse" where the inner wall of the rear part of the cockpit also rests.

So the cut that I make to replace the panels of the windows, must be before reaching the forward end. I'm thinking about doing it to where the window closest to the cabin starts, this would give me greater resistance with the original plastic of the kit in all that circumference of the fuselage, and at the same time demarcate the start of the windows on both sides.

Let's see if later (or tomorrow) I can prepare some photos with the strokes of what I intend.

To that adhesive sheet, I will make the marks that delimit the two panels, as well as the space and correct distances for the two windows on each side. After that sheet I attach it to a piece of transparent acetate sheet with sufficient thickness to allow the curvature of the fuselage.
I have thought of making the interior "ribs" with strips of styrene, which facilitate the proper placement of the new panels from the inside, and on the outside it will only be a matter of resurfacing, sanding and polishing the possible scars, to then redo the lines of the panels.

Any other suggestions or recommendations?

I hope I have been clear enough and do not hesitate to ask anything!

Gracias por el gran aporte e interés

 

[Crimea_River]

Terry beat me to it on the IP colour. Nit sure why it would be a light grey.

Love the rest of it Luis.

 

[SANCER]

Nice work Luis.
Note that all the instrument panels were in RLM 66, and the smaller, vertical panel, to the left of the pilot, in front of the control column, was a later addition, not fitted to the H-3 and H-4 series. This has been included in the Monogram kits as they issue the same basic parts for all their versions of the He-111.

Terry beat me to it on the IP colour. Nit sure why it would be a light grey.

Love the rest of it Luis.

I have a good time looking for where I got the IPs are lighter gray.

I have too much interesting information and I can not find where I read about the colors inside the cockpit, but it caught my attention because the first He111 I made, the whole interior was 66 and I remember that I thought it would be something that would distinguish from the cockpit of our AW177.

I am still in time to make the correction and confirm that at least, our version AW177, the entire interior of the cabin is RLM66.
If someone else has knowledge of this, or I can find where I did read it (or I'm already daydreaming with this! )

Thanks for your comments and the observation Terry and Andy

Saludos

 

[Luftace43]

Your idea of the replacement windows sounds good. I wouldn't place the edge right at the window though, perhaps halfway between the front canopy and the first window. This will allow you enough room to address the seam and get it sanded flush without marking the new window. Hope that makes sense?

 

[SANCER]

It's a good point Chad, you're right and I'll consider it. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Wurger]

Thank you Wojtek for the interest and for asking. It's something that I've been thinking since Chad's choice, so I submit it to all of you.

First on the original fuselage of the kit (as it is with the windows open on my first attempt), I'm going to put an adhesive sheet, to "trace" the silhouette of the two panels (because each window is on a panel).
An important point to consider in the part of the fuselage that joins the transparent part of the "greenhouse" where the inner wall of the rear part of the cockpit also rests.

So the cut that I make to replace the panels of the windows, must be before reaching the forward end. I'm thinking about doing it to where the window closest to the cabin starts, this would give me greater resistance with the original plastic of the kit in all that circumference of the fuselage, and at the same time demarcate the start of the windows on both sides.

Let's see if later (or tomorrow) I can prepare some photos with the strokes of what I intend.

To that adhesive sheet, I will make the marks that delimit the two panels, as well as the space and correct distances for the two windows on each side. After that sheet I attach it to a piece of transparent acetate sheet with sufficient thickness to allow the curvature of the fuselage.
I have thought of making the interior "ribs" with strips of styrene, which facilitate the proper placement of the new panels from the inside, and on the outside it will only be a matter of resurfacing, sanding and polishing the possible scars, to then redo the lines of the panels.

Any other suggestions or recommendations?

I hope I have been clear enough and do not hesitate to ask anything!

Gracias por el gran aporte e interés

Humm.. still not sure how you want to fix and make the glass for the window. If I were you I would follow the way... to make the explanation easier these pics are for one window only.

Step 1. I would marked the window holes as a rectangle. The size of the window rectangle should be a little bit larger then the orginal window ( about 2-3mm around).

Step 2. Because you have the window holes already cut out, it is enough to shape these existed ones to the recatngle shape and size. Making it with the jewellery files shouldn't be a trouble. Also, at the stage, I would make the glass for the windows , certainly, of the correct shape and dimensions

Step 3. Having the holes and glass made I would glue the glass into the holes. You should remember about the fuselage curvature. The glass has to be glued into the hole in the way there should be the possibility of sanding and polishing of the outer surface of the galss in order to keep the curvature. I can hear the question from many.. Why sanding?... well.. because bending of a such small pieces always leads to cracking and getting the milky fog of the clear parts. So by the sanding/polishing of the clear parts you will avoid not only damges but also you will fix the gaps between the fusealge and glass. Additionally , by the skilful gluing of the clear parts into, you may limit the sanding/polishing as much as possible.

Step 4. Having that all above done you should make masks for the windows. You may use the masking tape and the made by the manufacturer window holes for the correct shape of the masks. Cut them out of the tape and stick to the glass at the proper lacation both outside and inside of the fusealage..

Step 5. The masks should stay at the glass until all is painted at the areas. Of course, these inside of the fuselage should be removed before the fuselage halves are put together.

Step 6. When all is ready ,I mean. the model is painted you may remove also the outside masks.

Not sure if it is much easier than the way you want to follow Luis. But it may be worth to take it into consideration too.

 

[SANCER]

Wow, there is no doubt that two or more heads think better than just one!

In addition, it can be improved to close to a better previous idea.
I have a degree in business administration and I have always communicated with the idea that "there will always be a better way of doing things" and here we have seen it, from my original idea of making new windows.

Your proposal Wojtek, the clear explanation and your images leave me no doubt and solve several unknowns; between them:
1) the window would no longer be with a piece of acetate, I could place a piece of acrylic.
2) What would allow me to have better hardness and strength to adhere the window to the fuselage.
3) could polish the inside of the window (before placing it) and...
4) once placed, can file, sand and polish on a material more resistant than acetate.

It's a bit more work, but the result will be better, ... Depending on the result, I'm looking forward to doing the same with the original 4 windows of the kit!

This is team work, gracias a todos

 

[Wurger]

OK. .. just to add.. I don't use acetate for making of such parts. I use the clear polystyrene. It can be bought in almost hobby shops and is offered as clear sheets of different thickess. However a such material can be obtained from clear plastic boxes for many goods e.g for blades of a shaver. But the acrylic sounds goo too.

 

[SANCER]

I found where I had read about the interior of the cabin.
It is a part of an article, within all the information I have received.

I quote it textually:

"...Luftwaffe interior colors
by Doug Nelson

PART 1-- COCKPITS

The regulations of the Reichsluftministrium establish that before November 1941, the areas of the cabins / crews would be RLM Verde-Gris 02,
with the exception of instrument panels that were gray with black faces.

After November 1941, all areas of the cabin / crew visible through the glazing (windows) had to be RLM Black-Gray 66.
The instrument panels remained as indicated above. The fuel lines were yellow, the oil lines were brown, the coolant lines were green,
the oxygen lines were blue and the lines of extinguishers were red. However, as with any military regulation, variations in implementation and interpretation were often observed. ..."

I do not know how reliable this information is.

I leave it to your best consideration. What do you think?

regards

 

[Wurger]

It is the quite correct info. The RLM 66 (Dark Grey ) for indicator panels was used before the Nov.1941 and then later too.At least the the Luftwaffe Camouflage and Markings 1933-1945 by Merrick and Kiroff vol.1 states that.

 

[Crimea_River]

For the replacement windows, I would have tried to find some clear plastic of the right curvature from a food container. Lots of those around. I did this on my Me410 where I broke the front glass.

 

[SANCER]

I share some photos with the seat instead ...

Now I applied several diluted layers of black, to achieve a very fine sprinkling, which allows me to have the interiors of the dials with the best appreciation of the details inside each one. (I really do not know if this has really helped, or done it in a normal way, ... but I thought so)

... what I have in mind is to try to do something that occurred to me to do with the dials.
I definitely do not think it's something new, but I think it can work ... later I'm going to tell you this idea with the photos.

On the other hand, referring to the last recommendation to make the famous and expected "windows" , I have for the time being these pieces of clear polystyrene, as options to have the best option that allows us to achieve what we want.

I return later, greetings.

 

[Wurger]

Great. However please check the box of the CD record. The plastic of these likes getting milky when getting the glue. Also it would be better to check if the clear plastic can be stuck with the glue for the polystyrene at all.. If not you have to use the CA one. Additionally the plastic also gets scratches easily. SO please be carefull.

 

[SANCER]

Great. However please check the box of the CD record. The plastic of these likes getting milky when getting the glue. Also it would be better to check if the clear plastic can be stuck with the glue for the polystyrene at all.. If not you have to use the CA one. Additionally the plastic also gets scratches easily. SO please be carefull.

Ok I understand. In case of using the CD box, it is possible that when having the piece ready to place in the hole, give it a bath with Future, and after is dry, adhere it with CA (cyanocrilate).
What glue do you mean for polystyrene ?, will it be that I have it among my things?

 

[Wurger]

Not sure if you use the kind of glues Luis. By the polystyrene glue I mean the one that melts the plastic.The base is the acetone, toluene or trichloroethylene as the thinner. Most of adhesives used for plastic models are usually the cement kind only. But certainly these work too.

 

[SANCER]

Ahh it's fine, now that I see the indications of each one, I have Tamiya's ETC as main option, ... and it will be a matter of doing small tests with each of the other glues I have, before using CA.

Thanks Wojtek

 

[Wurger]

 

[SANCER]

The idea that I have for the dials is to paint the inside of these using the dry brush technique, in this case with white ...

That's how all the instrument panels look ...

Now I cover each one of the dials with a liquid mask ...

I had left out of the photos the instrument cluster mounted on the canopy frame above the pilot to his right, but now here it appears with all the IP group.

I just applied the RLM66 and once it dry perfectly, I had thought to make another dry brush, but with black, to give the color to the frame of each dial, although maybe I try it by hand with a fine brush.

But I think that will be later.

I hope everyone has an excellent start to the week and also start to feel and enjoying the next holiday season.

I leave this photo of the proud grandparents putting the Christmas tree in the house of the granddaughters.

See you soon.

 

[Wurger]