BertUS
Senior Airman
Unbelievable nice work, I really like the hybride buillt. On your callout, maybe you can show wich part is seeing from the deck, so people can see, it's not only the gunhouse but also the big installation below decklevel
1:72 Complete Iowa Battleship 16"-50 cal Turret with interior down to the magazine
- Thread starter Builder 2010
- Start date
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Good work so far!
- Thread starter
- #144
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Thanks Guys!
I seemed to have missed an entire post from yesterday's work. So I'm adding it here in front of today's post. Both were pretty intensive sessions with lots of stuff to show.
First of all I edited the turret drawing to display the main deck and what lies above and below it. It was a suggestion by one of my many readers. It quickly tells the viewer just how much of this machine is below their feet.
I made that correction suggested on the write up to spell out "Port and Starboard" and avoid acronyms.
I took two steps forward and two steps back yesterday. I finally got the pan deck and electric deck to mate. After chopping and cutting all kinds of places on the e-deck, and still having the rocking to and fro, like there was a high spot somewhere buried inside, I decided to do some lateral thinking and check the pan deck base. And of course it was bowed out. It was this prominent bow that was created the interference. I should have relized this earlier, since the inner surface was bellied and the partitions had gaps that I had to fill... a lot. I used a sanding drum on the Dremel and knocked down most of the bulge on the ribs and lo and behold, the two gets finally got it together!
Another view:
I'm really having deja vu here... I know I wrote all this stuff yesterday and have no idea why it doesn't appear on any of the four forums to which I post. I do all the basic text here since Fine Scale has the most cumbersome photo upload, having to first load to a service and then to this site. All the other forums you can just drag an image from my files and drop it in.
I wanted to get the pan deck ready for paint, but that required doing the electrical work first. I'm using surface mount warm white LEDs driven by CL2N3 LED driver chips. These little marvels cost about $0.25 a piece. You pump in anything direct current voltage from 5 to 90 and out pops 20 milliamps, just what LEDs love. No worry about current limiting resistors. You can string the LEDs in series limited only by the input voltage drops across each LED. Generally they drop about 3 VDC so you can run a 4-LED string with one CL2 on a 12VDC power source. I'm using a 12VDC LED power supply from Amazon that cost about $15. I'm using them all over the place on my model railroad and have another as my LED test rig.
The circuit consists of self-adhesive copper foil tape with the LEDs soldered into little 1mm gaps. I mark which end is positive (+) and negative (–), and ensure that I'm soldering them in correctly. The contact pads underneath the LED is tiny, and the + is much smaller than the –. I run the circuit in a loop where I want the light to be and cut the notches. I use the continous corners that I was taught in installing burglar alarms in the late 1970s when we were using adhesive lead foil on windows to sense breakage. You bend the tape back on itself, then turn it 90 degrees to form a triangle and stick it to itself. I pre-tin both sides of the gap with enough solder to puddle a bit when I place the LED over the gap and heat the solder next to it. You don't heat the LED! They are temperature sensitve. I heat the foil next to it and let the solder, keep a little bit of pressure on the LED with a tweezers, and as soon as the solder melts and the LED drops into it, I take off the heat.
Here's the illuminated circuit. BTW: If you get the polarity reversed it doesn't damage the LED. They're diodes and simply block currect in the opposite directoion. These puppies are very bright and I may have to attenuated them by painting something on the lens. They are much brighter than they appear here. The wire is 30awg silicone insulated stranded. There's is very little current in this circuit and small wiring works perfectly.
And here's the e-deck lit. The translucency will be elimiated by the many coats of paint to follow. If it still shows up, I can back the panels with aluminum foil which totally blocks the light leakage. Half of this stuff will not be visible when the powder trunks go in.
Now to the ugly stuff.
I found that the boss on the bottom of the e-deck was completely off-center. The central hub was fine, but the surrounding circle was eccentric. I scribed a circle of what would be correct. I was going to attemp to repair it, but last night decided to print a corrected part which you will read about further down in today's post. Don't ask me how this could happen. I don't have a clue. Every (or nearly every) circle I draw in SU is concentric with others. It's very easy to do.
The other problem was the uneven wall height arround the pan deck perimeter. This had to be fixed. I used a surface gauge and scribed a line from the lowest wall point around the entire circumference. I then used an abrasive wheel in the Dremel and removed anything that was higher. It was a scary bit and could have wrecked the whole deal, but didn't. Today I trimmed all the rest of the stuff that was sticking up. I don't know what this amount of material removal is going to do with the final constuction. In actual practice the gun's recoil would possibly be too long for the ceiling height at full elevation. But I'm not elevating that high AND my guns can't fire and therefore can't recoil. And it may be a benefit. I may have made the elevating scews too short, but this extra 3/16" could be all I need to have them comfortably fit into the tilting boxes.
Today's post:
Still wrestling with the real world versus the 3D designed world. It's a shock when I find my brilliantly designed things don't quite translate into the solid objects of which this world is made. Case in point...
I decided to reprint the electric deck and the insert. There were aspects of both that could be improved and I had already drawn a later version of each. The big print worked overnight so it was waiting for me this morning. It wasn't bad although again it had large ribs in places that weren't on the design and again, I was able to surgically remove them without damaging what was there. The bottom of this new part did not have that off-center boss problem like the previous one did. In fact, it had no boss at all. Furthermore, to add to the fun, the center lug that sits on top of the central column, was not physically attached in the drawing and printed anywhere as a separate part. It was so well supported it just print right where it was, but fell off when I removed the support. I glued it back on with Gel CA.
I thought it was good that it didn't have a boss, but then found that when I assembled it with the projectile flat that lies below and added the projectile hoists, the electric deck was sitting about 0.080" above the projectile deck's inner drum held up by the projectile hoists. It NEEDED THE BOSS!
I made the boss out of a laminate of two pieces of 0.040" styrene, and attached it using 3M transfer adhesive tape. This stuff is contact cement that comes on a roll. I can be amazingly strong when applied to clean surfaces. The spacing is now corrected.
I spend more time on the projectile deck centers starting to get the powder hoists trunks final fit for installation. i also chose to install the other apparatus in these inner spaces. Visibility is terrible inside due to the vision blocks set up by the powder trunks. I suppose I could hack some material off of them to show what's behind, but I'm not inclined to do so.
I finished up leveling the wall tops of the pan deck and got it ready for paint by finish sanding and filling the outer surface. I double-checked the drawing and flat pattern created by the software to see if the errors were there. They were not! The entire length of the pattern was parallel. What I think happened were errors crept in during the bending and glue up. It's a conical shape and depending on how the final joining was made, it could have changed the height of the sides in places.
After sanding I went around and filled any gaps in the styrene-resin interface with Tamiya fine filler.
I took the pan deck outside and rattle-can sprayed it with Tamiya White Primer.
And after using Molotow Liquid Mask, I did the bottom.
I put a final coat of filler on a few missed spots and will sand that in tomorrow's session.
I'm going to paint the wall gloss white, the floor will be linoleum brown, with the apparatus painted medium gray. Ladders and projectile hoist trunks will be white.
Next up was the E-deck reprint. This print, besides missing the bottom boss, had the front bulkheads printed in place and they looked good (except for the middle piece of the front wall and two of the arms breaking off during cleaning). There was just one small problem. The pinion gears and their housings couldn't go into the space. Once in the space they would possible work, but I couldn't get them in there.
They fit in the drawing! That's becasuse, they aren't real and could move through the parts that were in the way into the space where they did fit.
It is essential that the pinions drop straight down into the space without a lot of wrangling. It's part of the entire pan deck structure and that's hard enough to get into place without having to hassle with the gears. So I took the router and removed the four inner bulkheads. I left the outer two in place. I will scratch-build them as I did with the last version, out of styrene spaced wide enough so the pinions fit
Re: the middle appratus print: The print was perfect except for a mal-formed wall and projectile hoist power unit that sits across one of the bulkhead openings. I will surgically remove the bad stuff and transplant a good from another print I have. NEVER EVER THROW AWAY REJECTS UNTIL YOU'RE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU WON'T NEED THEM!
Tomorrow will be the last work session for over two weeks due to the Hawaii trip. I will still have access to the forums so I can respond to comments.
I seemed to have missed an entire post from yesterday's work. So I'm adding it here in front of today's post. Both were pretty intensive sessions with lots of stuff to show.
First of all I edited the turret drawing to display the main deck and what lies above and below it. It was a suggestion by one of my many readers. It quickly tells the viewer just how much of this machine is below their feet.
I made that correction suggested on the write up to spell out "Port and Starboard" and avoid acronyms.
I took two steps forward and two steps back yesterday. I finally got the pan deck and electric deck to mate. After chopping and cutting all kinds of places on the e-deck, and still having the rocking to and fro, like there was a high spot somewhere buried inside, I decided to do some lateral thinking and check the pan deck base. And of course it was bowed out. It was this prominent bow that was created the interference. I should have relized this earlier, since the inner surface was bellied and the partitions had gaps that I had to fill... a lot. I used a sanding drum on the Dremel and knocked down most of the bulge on the ribs and lo and behold, the two gets finally got it together!
Another view:
I'm really having deja vu here... I know I wrote all this stuff yesterday and have no idea why it doesn't appear on any of the four forums to which I post. I do all the basic text here since Fine Scale has the most cumbersome photo upload, having to first load to a service and then to this site. All the other forums you can just drag an image from my files and drop it in.
I wanted to get the pan deck ready for paint, but that required doing the electrical work first. I'm using surface mount warm white LEDs driven by CL2N3 LED driver chips. These little marvels cost about $0.25 a piece. You pump in anything direct current voltage from 5 to 90 and out pops 20 milliamps, just what LEDs love. No worry about current limiting resistors. You can string the LEDs in series limited only by the input voltage drops across each LED. Generally they drop about 3 VDC so you can run a 4-LED string with one CL2 on a 12VDC power source. I'm using a 12VDC LED power supply from Amazon that cost about $15. I'm using them all over the place on my model railroad and have another as my LED test rig.
The circuit consists of self-adhesive copper foil tape with the LEDs soldered into little 1mm gaps. I mark which end is positive (+) and negative (–), and ensure that I'm soldering them in correctly. The contact pads underneath the LED is tiny, and the + is much smaller than the –. I run the circuit in a loop where I want the light to be and cut the notches. I use the continous corners that I was taught in installing burglar alarms in the late 1970s when we were using adhesive lead foil on windows to sense breakage. You bend the tape back on itself, then turn it 90 degrees to form a triangle and stick it to itself. I pre-tin both sides of the gap with enough solder to puddle a bit when I place the LED over the gap and heat the solder next to it. You don't heat the LED! They are temperature sensitve. I heat the foil next to it and let the solder, keep a little bit of pressure on the LED with a tweezers, and as soon as the solder melts and the LED drops into it, I take off the heat.
Here's the illuminated circuit. BTW: If you get the polarity reversed it doesn't damage the LED. They're diodes and simply block currect in the opposite directoion. These puppies are very bright and I may have to attenuated them by painting something on the lens. They are much brighter than they appear here. The wire is 30awg silicone insulated stranded. There's is very little current in this circuit and small wiring works perfectly.
And here's the e-deck lit. The translucency will be elimiated by the many coats of paint to follow. If it still shows up, I can back the panels with aluminum foil which totally blocks the light leakage. Half of this stuff will not be visible when the powder trunks go in.
Now to the ugly stuff.
I found that the boss on the bottom of the e-deck was completely off-center. The central hub was fine, but the surrounding circle was eccentric. I scribed a circle of what would be correct. I was going to attemp to repair it, but last night decided to print a corrected part which you will read about further down in today's post. Don't ask me how this could happen. I don't have a clue. Every (or nearly every) circle I draw in SU is concentric with others. It's very easy to do.
The other problem was the uneven wall height arround the pan deck perimeter. This had to be fixed. I used a surface gauge and scribed a line from the lowest wall point around the entire circumference. I then used an abrasive wheel in the Dremel and removed anything that was higher. It was a scary bit and could have wrecked the whole deal, but didn't. Today I trimmed all the rest of the stuff that was sticking up. I don't know what this amount of material removal is going to do with the final constuction. In actual practice the gun's recoil would possibly be too long for the ceiling height at full elevation. But I'm not elevating that high AND my guns can't fire and therefore can't recoil. And it may be a benefit. I may have made the elevating scews too short, but this extra 3/16" could be all I need to have them comfortably fit into the tilting boxes.
Today's post:
Still wrestling with the real world versus the 3D designed world. It's a shock when I find my brilliantly designed things don't quite translate into the solid objects of which this world is made. Case in point...
I decided to reprint the electric deck and the insert. There were aspects of both that could be improved and I had already drawn a later version of each. The big print worked overnight so it was waiting for me this morning. It wasn't bad although again it had large ribs in places that weren't on the design and again, I was able to surgically remove them without damaging what was there. The bottom of this new part did not have that off-center boss problem like the previous one did. In fact, it had no boss at all. Furthermore, to add to the fun, the center lug that sits on top of the central column, was not physically attached in the drawing and printed anywhere as a separate part. It was so well supported it just print right where it was, but fell off when I removed the support. I glued it back on with Gel CA.
I thought it was good that it didn't have a boss, but then found that when I assembled it with the projectile flat that lies below and added the projectile hoists, the electric deck was sitting about 0.080" above the projectile deck's inner drum held up by the projectile hoists. It NEEDED THE BOSS!
I made the boss out of a laminate of two pieces of 0.040" styrene, and attached it using 3M transfer adhesive tape. This stuff is contact cement that comes on a roll. I can be amazingly strong when applied to clean surfaces. The spacing is now corrected.
I spend more time on the projectile deck centers starting to get the powder hoists trunks final fit for installation. i also chose to install the other apparatus in these inner spaces. Visibility is terrible inside due to the vision blocks set up by the powder trunks. I suppose I could hack some material off of them to show what's behind, but I'm not inclined to do so.
I finished up leveling the wall tops of the pan deck and got it ready for paint by finish sanding and filling the outer surface. I double-checked the drawing and flat pattern created by the software to see if the errors were there. They were not! The entire length of the pattern was parallel. What I think happened were errors crept in during the bending and glue up. It's a conical shape and depending on how the final joining was made, it could have changed the height of the sides in places.
After sanding I went around and filled any gaps in the styrene-resin interface with Tamiya fine filler.
I took the pan deck outside and rattle-can sprayed it with Tamiya White Primer.
And after using Molotow Liquid Mask, I did the bottom.
I put a final coat of filler on a few missed spots and will sand that in tomorrow's session.
I'm going to paint the wall gloss white, the floor will be linoleum brown, with the apparatus painted medium gray. Ladders and projectile hoist trunks will be white.
Next up was the E-deck reprint. This print, besides missing the bottom boss, had the front bulkheads printed in place and they looked good (except for the middle piece of the front wall and two of the arms breaking off during cleaning). There was just one small problem. The pinion gears and their housings couldn't go into the space. Once in the space they would possible work, but I couldn't get them in there.
They fit in the drawing! That's becasuse, they aren't real and could move through the parts that were in the way into the space where they did fit.
It is essential that the pinions drop straight down into the space without a lot of wrangling. It's part of the entire pan deck structure and that's hard enough to get into place without having to hassle with the gears. So I took the router and removed the four inner bulkheads. I left the outer two in place. I will scratch-build them as I did with the last version, out of styrene spaced wide enough so the pinions fit
Re: the middle appratus print: The print was perfect except for a mal-formed wall and projectile hoist power unit that sits across one of the bulkhead openings. I will surgically remove the bad stuff and transplant a good from another print I have. NEVER EVER THROW AWAY REJECTS UNTIL YOU'RE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU WON'T NEED THEM!
Tomorrow will be the last work session for over two weeks due to the Hawaii trip. I will still have access to the forums so I can respond to comments.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Its slowly coming alive. 
BertUS
Senior Airman
OW, man, it's a project with like similair to my project (on the printingstuff)
You designed somewhat on screen, wow, looks great, assembling other parts. Yeah, fits great
You print it out, try to dry fit WTF? so small, so wide, what happens here?
But your progress is amazing, I love the LED's allthough I am a lot but no electrician
It's amazing what a lot of machinery and decks are inder the gun house, never realize that
You designed somewhat on screen, wow, looks great, assembling other parts. Yeah, fits great
You print it out, try to dry fit WTF? so small, so wide, what happens here?
But your progress is amazing, I love the LED's allthough I am a lot but no electrician
It's amazing what a lot of machinery and decks are inder the gun house, never realize that
- Thread starter
- #148
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Thanks all! Yes… showly coming alive by Frankenstein's monster….
Last short work session before vacation (now.. really...when retired you don't "really" need a vacation. Everyday is a vacation). I finish sanded the outer walls of the pan deck and powder flat. Continued mounting stuff into the projectile flats, and reprinted successfully that complicated mid-section of the electric deck.
I woke up thinking that why should I spend the effort to cobble together a good part when I know exactly what failed in the print and know exactly why it failed. It took 10 minutes to add and modify the supports so that area wouldn't fail. I put it on the machine in the morning, did my exercises and by 3:30 p.m., the part was done.
These two images show the failure and the success.
It was actually the good kind of failure: nothing was separated from the part and stuck to the FEP.
After support removal and a couple spots needing some Bondic, this is what it looks like. It only took four iterations to get this one right. it was a complicated part that stretched the envelope of a single part print.
When we return from the trip, I will grind off all the support scars. This version has the corrected pipe positioning to align with the training B-end one deck above. A lot of the parts will be ready for the paint booth then also.
And with that I see y'all in a couple of weeks.
.Last short work session before vacation (now.. really...when retired you don't "really" need a vacation. Everyday is a vacation). I finish sanded the outer walls of the pan deck and powder flat. Continued mounting stuff into the projectile flats, and reprinted successfully that complicated mid-section of the electric deck.
I woke up thinking that why should I spend the effort to cobble together a good part when I know exactly what failed in the print and know exactly why it failed. It took 10 minutes to add and modify the supports so that area wouldn't fail. I put it on the machine in the morning, did my exercises and by 3:30 p.m., the part was done.
These two images show the failure and the success.
It was actually the good kind of failure: nothing was separated from the part and stuck to the FEP.
After support removal and a couple spots needing some Bondic, this is what it looks like. It only took four iterations to get this one right. it was a complicated part that stretched the envelope of a single part print.
When we return from the trip, I will grind off all the support scars. This version has the corrected pipe positioning to align with the training B-end one deck above. A lot of the parts will be ready for the paint booth then also.
And with that I see y'all in a couple of weeks.
BertUS
Senior Airman
What the effect of supports can do
Have a great time
Have a great time
syscom3
Pacific Historian
This thread has gotten me to look in awe at the engineers, specialists and draftsman that designed the turret in the first place. Then got it integrated onto the battleship. Then figured out the assembly sequences. Simply amazing!
PlasticHero
Senior Airman
I'm sure you follow Battleship New Jersey on youtube, and here is a tiny new detail to add.
This details how the turrets are locked in the straight ahead position.
This details how the turrets are locked in the straight ahead position.
Great work so far!
- Thread starter
- #154
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Thanks Guys for all the great comments! Yes, I do follow the NJ videos and now am personally connected to the fellow that produces them, Ryan Syzmanski.
Aloha! (that word and Moholo) is the extent of my Hawaian vocabularly after spending 12 days in paradise. It lived up to its expectataions and besides spending a small fortune, we really did Maui. We don't do serious hiking, paragliding, jetskiing or any of that 'rough' stuff, but we did do a lot of fabulous restaurants, visited a distillery, a winery, a glass factory, two botanical gardens, aquarium and walked on beach trails that gave views like this...
and this... This was outside our hotel balcony.
Maui was created over a million years by two volcanoes. Actully the five islands that make up Maui's neighborhood were all one island many years ago and between subsidence and errosion, the connecting land bridges submerged. It's why the channel between Maui, Lanai, Molokai, Kaho'alawe and the Molokini Crater is so shallow. The West Mountains are the remnants of a volcano that last erupted about 1,000,000 years ago, but the other, a 10,000 foot monster, Haleakala, erupted just 200 years ago, so it's only "mostly dead". The West Mountains, like the San Franscisco peaks at Flagstaff, AZ was once a huge mountain, but has broken down and erroded to a series of interesting peaks.
The best part of the trip was biting the bullet and renting cabanas during our four beach days. I am a true white man... I mean I am pitifully white, and sunburn just by imaging the sun in my head. Modern sun screen helps, but a cabana helped a whole lot more and made staying down by the sea for hours and hours much more relaxing. This was a view from our cabana watching the idiots going around in circles on jet skis and paying a fortune to do it. For the exhorbatent price of the cabana, they provided us with cold water and fresh fruit (including Maui Gold Pineapple).
We flew Louisville-Dallas-Maui-Dallas-Louisvile. The L'ville leg was on regional jets, but the Maui run was on an American 787-900. It was our first time on this plane and we flew Premium Economy. Premium Economy exceeded our expectations and seemed very much like business class (which I flew many time 20 years ago back and forth to Germany). I would recommend. It costs more than coach, but it's worth it. Five years ago, we flew First Class on a United 777 and it was definitely NOT worth it.
Now onto modeling. Finally got back in the shop and I hate to say it, but it felt great! I picked up where I left off; fitting the center section into the newly printed electric deck and getting the rest of it ready for paint. The was very little clean up on the middle part to make it work. I had to open up the hole for the projectile hoist trunk, and sand off some divots, but that was it.
I then spent time re-creating those little bulkheads on the forward part of the e-Deck. So little of these things is visible from the enclosed front that it's really not worth the effort, but you know... AWS. The pinions now fit this new space without binding. I also enlarged the semi-cicular pinion openings since the teeth were contacting the walls and weren't able to rotate. I want them to rotate so they can seat properly on the large ring gear.
The e-deck is now ready to receive all the apparatus either painted or un-painted... haven't decided yet. Assembly will continue more quickly now that everything's ready to go (except all those outer shells).
Aloha! (that word and Moholo) is the extent of my Hawaian vocabularly after spending 12 days in paradise. It lived up to its expectataions and besides spending a small fortune, we really did Maui. We don't do serious hiking, paragliding, jetskiing or any of that 'rough' stuff, but we did do a lot of fabulous restaurants, visited a distillery, a winery, a glass factory, two botanical gardens, aquarium and walked on beach trails that gave views like this...
and this... This was outside our hotel balcony.
Maui was created over a million years by two volcanoes. Actully the five islands that make up Maui's neighborhood were all one island many years ago and between subsidence and errosion, the connecting land bridges submerged. It's why the channel between Maui, Lanai, Molokai, Kaho'alawe and the Molokini Crater is so shallow. The West Mountains are the remnants of a volcano that last erupted about 1,000,000 years ago, but the other, a 10,000 foot monster, Haleakala, erupted just 200 years ago, so it's only "mostly dead". The West Mountains, like the San Franscisco peaks at Flagstaff, AZ was once a huge mountain, but has broken down and erroded to a series of interesting peaks.
The best part of the trip was biting the bullet and renting cabanas during our four beach days. I am a true white man... I mean I am pitifully white, and sunburn just by imaging the sun in my head. Modern sun screen helps, but a cabana helped a whole lot more and made staying down by the sea for hours and hours much more relaxing. This was a view from our cabana watching the idiots going around in circles on jet skis and paying a fortune to do it. For the exhorbatent price of the cabana, they provided us with cold water and fresh fruit (including Maui Gold Pineapple).
We flew Louisville-Dallas-Maui-Dallas-Louisvile. The L'ville leg was on regional jets, but the Maui run was on an American 787-900. It was our first time on this plane and we flew Premium Economy. Premium Economy exceeded our expectations and seemed very much like business class (which I flew many time 20 years ago back and forth to Germany). I would recommend. It costs more than coach, but it's worth it. Five years ago, we flew First Class on a United 777 and it was definitely NOT worth it.
Now onto modeling. Finally got back in the shop and I hate to say it, but it felt great! I picked up where I left off; fitting the center section into the newly printed electric deck and getting the rest of it ready for paint. The was very little clean up on the middle part to make it work. I had to open up the hole for the projectile hoist trunk, and sand off some divots, but that was it.
I then spent time re-creating those little bulkheads on the forward part of the e-Deck. So little of these things is visible from the enclosed front that it's really not worth the effort, but you know... AWS. The pinions now fit this new space without binding. I also enlarged the semi-cicular pinion openings since the teeth were contacting the walls and weren't able to rotate. I want them to rotate so they can seat properly on the large ring gear.
The e-deck is now ready to receive all the apparatus either painted or un-painted... haven't decided yet. Assembly will continue more quickly now that everything's ready to go (except all those outer shells).
BertUS
Senior Airman
It's sound you had a great time on Hawai, Im not jaleous, really, I'm not.................or...........
Great to see you are happy to went on with your project, I'm still follow it with big interest
Great to see you are happy to went on with your project, I'm still follow it with big interest
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Nice to see you back, glad you had a great time alove the pics.
- Thread starter
- #158
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Thanks Fellows!
I do most of my creative thinking upon awakening in the morning and today was no exception. A couple of things got my attention. I had to remove part of the cutaway scrap from the gun house and reattach it since it's the part that supports the exterior periscope from the kit and my complex interior periscope that I created. Besides cutting it out and preparing it, I had to figure out where it would go. It's precise location was a bit hard to spacialize due to the missing plastic from the saw kerf. I stiffened the part with some more styrene and, after an initial fitting that was too far forward, I think I've got it right. It's not glued in yet, but it will be before the gun house is installed and painted. I wanted to preserve not only the periscope mounts, but also the little divots between them that denote the location of some hand grabs. The final position is actually rearward from this almost to that line of heavy rivets.
Work then continued on the electric deck. After laying in all the apparatus I realize that I DID have to make a cutaway of the powder trunk that's facing the viewer. You would completely miss the 300hp pump motor if the trunk was intact. Luckily, I decided to print all the powder trunks hollowed out. So when I cut the piece away using a scroll saw, I didn't have too much cleanup to do to open up the interior and thin the walls so they were more believable.
Using the same strategy, I realized that you wouldn't see anything inside the projectile flat cores either with the both the powder trunks AND the central column. I cut the trunk, but not sure what to do about the column. The wiring's going to run down that, just like the prototype. You can see some of it and it will be illuminated. I had to replace the trunk middle wall due to damage I created when using a carbide router to thin them.
And this is the very restricted view of the interior with the e-deck in place over it. This clearly shows why it needs to be lit. I just ordered more warm-white surface mount LEDs today from SuperBrightLEDs.Com.
I do most of my creative thinking upon awakening in the morning and today was no exception. A couple of things got my attention. I had to remove part of the cutaway scrap from the gun house and reattach it since it's the part that supports the exterior periscope from the kit and my complex interior periscope that I created. Besides cutting it out and preparing it, I had to figure out where it would go. It's precise location was a bit hard to spacialize due to the missing plastic from the saw kerf. I stiffened the part with some more styrene and, after an initial fitting that was too far forward, I think I've got it right. It's not glued in yet, but it will be before the gun house is installed and painted. I wanted to preserve not only the periscope mounts, but also the little divots between them that denote the location of some hand grabs. The final position is actually rearward from this almost to that line of heavy rivets.
Work then continued on the electric deck. After laying in all the apparatus I realize that I DID have to make a cutaway of the powder trunk that's facing the viewer. You would completely miss the 300hp pump motor if the trunk was intact. Luckily, I decided to print all the powder trunks hollowed out. So when I cut the piece away using a scroll saw, I didn't have too much cleanup to do to open up the interior and thin the walls so they were more believable.
Using the same strategy, I realized that you wouldn't see anything inside the projectile flat cores either with the both the powder trunks AND the central column. I cut the trunk, but not sure what to do about the column. The wiring's going to run down that, just like the prototype. You can see some of it and it will be illuminated. I had to replace the trunk middle wall due to damage I created when using a carbide router to thin them.
And this is the very restricted view of the interior with the e-deck in place over it. This clearly shows why it needs to be lit. I just ordered more warm-white surface mount LEDs today from SuperBrightLEDs.Com.
BertUS
Senior Airman
It would be a struggle to decide what or how to cut, but still reckonizing alll the parts. But again, it's wonderfulllll
Vic Balshaw
Major General
At the risk of repeating myself, the detail, this is amazing. Painting it all should be fun.
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