1/72 Mig 3 "Green Wing Tips"

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well..what can i say..i dont touch resion often ( only whein its a MUST for a update on a kit )..that is not the easiest thing to work with..and you decided to get back into modeling and started with 1:72 and RESIN.. wow..i am impressed..when i decided to get back into modeling after 25 years brake i started with the largest kit i found with the fewest parts ( and plastic ) and went from there..hehe

keep up the good work. when you pull this ashore i am sure your next kit will go smooth as a .. well..as something.. greased lightning perhaps.. :)

looking good so far :)
 
Nice work Dirk, and welcome to the jungle, err, the website! I've always liked the MiG-3 - not a very good plane but a darn sharp-looking one. With that big engine and aft-set cockpit it always reminded me of a racer. Keep up the good work.

Venganza
 
Here are some progress photos. I must be getting better at taking photos because I'm not liking the results I'm seeing. I might have to strip the nose section down and start over.

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There is suppose to be a "Slight" variation between the body and the nose section. This is too drastic. I mixed white with some aluminium and it should have been the other way around. It looked fine when I was mixing it. Suggestions on how to strip it down would be welcome.

IMG_1034.jpg


IMG_1035.jpg


Here you can see how out of whack the right wing vent is. I'm going to have to find some small files to fix this. Right now I don't have the right tools. I'm also unhappy with the way the exhaust stacks are sitting on the cowl. To many gaps. The gaps are to large for Mr Surface and to small to use green putty. If anyone has a suggestion for a good middle of the road filler for this tight spot I look forward to hearing it. I also need to do some more work on the gun ports. The paint highlights everything.

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Thanks for looking

Regards

Dirk
 
Dirk, for the paint - get it off as quickly as you can, whatever you use for a remover. I've found that the longer you leave it on, the harder it is to remove. You might find it easier just to paint it over. As far as gaps go, for small gaps, especially where there's a natural join line anyway, I've found that white glue, like Kristal Kleer, works well. You can apply it with a paint brush, and you can wipe away any excess with water. Since it's going to be painted over anyway, it doesn't matter that it's water-soluble. Good luck!

Venganza
 
Good work so far mate. It's probably better to gently rub-down that metallic surface, and re-paint as required. Metallic paints have a tendency to leave 'clumps' of the metalizer pigment if you try to strip it using any form of paint stripper/remover.
For the small gaps/joints, Venganza's solution is good. You can either use Micro Kristal Klear, or PVA adhesive, which is more or less the same thing anyway. Anthor way is to mix clear varnish and talcum powder. In this case, as the gap is fine, Johnson's Future, mixed with the talc to form a thin paste, would be fine. Just brush it into the gaps, wipe off any excess, and leave it to harden, which should take about 30 minutes. There will be a white, chalky depoist left, which should just wipe off, and any sanding should be minimal. This will give you a permanent, rock-hard filler and joint.
 

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