1/8 Mig-3 But not really. (1 Viewer)

Oh I have forgotten ... a very useful tool for the dry brushing technique ...

Sponge brushes....

Wurger,

Thank you for that. My goal here, and I may be incorrect, but I would like to have "dirt" or a darker color around the area of the rivets, AND, where I have vinyl double lines.

So, with all due respect, I'm still thinking "wash, or am I all washed up for thinking that?
"
This is new progress.

Good work so far!

Looking good Charles. The "wash" is the way you should follow of course.

Gnomey said:

Good work so far!

Click to expand...

Thanks, Gnomey! Removing these rivets and replacing them is nuts, but I have to disciplin myself. Part of the training experience.

Looking good Charles. The "wash" is the way you should follow of course.

Click to expand...

Wurger,

Please let me turn all these orange dots into yellow dots. Presto! I wish. Then I would like to have a better understanding of that wash process, AND if it's best suited for the look I whish to achieve. Your suggestion about working small areas, for control, makes since.

There will be a thin layer of paint applied over these rivets. I did do a test storyboard, but wasn't that delighted with the results.

Here you see both orange and yellow rivets. Applied then a thin coat of yellow paint just enough to cover.

I did the darker color, waterbase enamel, with a rag, but it dried so fast or I would have removed more to show the yellow brighter as the original yellow. I actually hit the area with sand paper and that exposed the yellow again of the rivets. Took some of the darker color away also. Maybe a lighter shade of brown?

That paint edge when removing the tape looks like a panel line. An accident, but I like that and will try to incorporate some panel lines using this method.

I'm thinking possibly trying a water base "non enamel" paint. Might work better for this wash look also? Probably won't set up as fast and warm water might make removing it easier?

I never did weathering? I don't know what's right, wrong, good, bad or indifferent? Copying someone's work isn't all that easy.

But for now I have to remove and replace all these orange rivets.

I look at this as me being a student in a classroom. One who really doesn't belong there. So I really appreciate the input and help I'm getting along with the opportunity to participate with my project in my own Thread.

Blacklist

Here is the process of applying of the wash for panel lines I found at Sklep Modelarski - Modelarstwo Moje Hobby .
The one on the right sides is made with an enamel and the one on right was made with the oil based colour.

Step 1 - thinning of paints...



Step 2- applying of the thinned colours ...



Step 3 - cleaning .... let me explain something firstly. "Wash" means "cleaning". It is because after the dark colour is applied it has to be removed from a surface by cleaning using a thinner. But it has to be done in the way the dark colour was left in panel lines. Usually the cleaning process is started in 5 min after the wash had been applied. In order to save some of paint and thinner it is not necessary to apply the was all over the surface. It is enough to paint it at the areas where the panel lines are.





As you may notice the area with the oil based colour looks much better than the one with the enamel wash.

And here is the pared-down option .. the pic source : the net.

1.. applying the wash ..



2.. washing with a clear thinner and a brush ..



3.. the finall effect ...

My suggestion for getting a training ...

1. paint a piece of flat surface with the yellow you used for the model undersides.
2. apply a couple of the vinil rivets. ( similar to the pic with your test )
3. spray a thin layer of a gloss clear coat overall.
4. prepare the wash colour and take a bruh of a thin bristle ending ( like in the first shot of the post #187 )
5. apply the wash with the brush just around the rivets only.
6. wait a couple of minutes.
7. take a Q-tip and soak it with the thinner for the wash.
8. clean surface and the wash around rivets in the way the darker ring around their heads stayed.

Wurger,

You are really doing so much to help me, I'm lost for words. I'm sure you know it's appreciated.

If you are Posting photos of your work, outstanding!

OK, why a coat of gloss clear? The model will be matt, correct?

Also, What clear do you suggest? All I have is Matt Top Coat by Createx and Matt Varnish by Liquitex. I forgot what clear I used on the nose of the fuselage?

This is a 55" span model, I'll need a bunch of "Q" tips.

Blacklist

1.. why the gloss clear coat? ... OK.... the gloss clear coat is because of two reasons. The fist one is to protect the basic colour under that. In the case the yellow. Secondly a gloss varnish gives a very smooth covering what makes applying and settling of the wash easier. Thirdly it makes easier cleaning of the surface without damaging of the base, yellow colour ( what is in fact the first reason too ).

2.. The clear gloss varnish should be of the same type the yellow paint is. At least it shouldn't get into a reaction with it. As you may notice the trick for the wash is the different kind of paints between the basic one and the wash type. I mean the oil based colour and the water paint for instance. Personally I difference three kinds of colours... 1. the fast drying dopes called in Poland "Nitro". These can be used as a primer for all other kinds of paints. Nitro paint can't be applied on other kinds of colours and even on another nitro paint. The reason for that is the thinner that is very agresive and contains a component used for good polystyrene glues. As a result plastic models can't be painted with the kind of colours because it causes melting of the plastic. But for wood, metal it is a very good coat for exapmle. 2. the water acrylic paints, drying quite quickly. However most of the modern acrylic paints for modelling aren't thinned with water but with a special thinners depending on manufacturers. Their properties are a little bit different from these old water paints but can be applied over the nitro colours and oil based paints. Also it is possible to apply the oil colours over the acrylic paints but I would be careful and give a try to a such configuration firstly. 3. the oil based colours like Humbrol or artistic ones etc .... quite long drying colours. These can be applied over the nitro and acrylic paints. Also these are a good base for making washes. Bcause of the long time of drying it is quite easy to remove them from a painted surface.

3. I don't think you need the bunch of Q-tips. Just a clear thinner in a small cup like in the second pic posted #187 and a couple of them. Also you may use the sponge brushes or just the standard bristle brush. The secret is to clean the brush in order to wash out the cleand excess of a colour from it and clean the surface with the pure thinner.

4. the matt varnish is the last coat you have to apply. It is because you have to protect the wash effect and make the model looking matt. Because you need to save the weight you may omit spraying of that gloss clear varnish but you have to be sure the yellow colour can be easy clear with the wash thinner. However I'm not sure if the yellow gives enough smooth surface that can be the reason for getting no success. Just check on that testing.

Wurger,

Thanks for those steps, I'll review them, and possibly we can go over them. I may need a complete understanding of those steps.

Here's to date. Bottom is completed and I'm looking forward to the next step. Actually, I'm nervous thinking about the next steps.

I used plastic models and drawings for rivet placement and tried to maintain a scale likeness.

I did correct drawing mistakes along the way so I can live with these final results. Kinda.

Blacklist

Looking good.

It looks very good so far. The application of the wash Wotjek is talking about will improve this even more if successful As a novice who struggles with aging (in every sense!!!), its a real challenge to apply, but well worth the effort

Everyone has been uplifting with their comments and advice.

Thank you for that, it's appreciated.

Couple of issues with the underbelly. There are areas where vinyl has already been painted before it was applied and has the color I painted the underbelly with. THEN, there are all these rivets AND some vinyl areas that are bright yellow unpainted vinyl.

I'm thinking, and I believe I mentioned this before, that I should dust a coat of the bottom color over the bright yellow areas, including all the rivets.

A bit of 600 paper takes the paint away quite easily showing the bright yellow.

I tried this on my sample board. I think there's a photo. I will do another sample board per Wurger's advice.

Why am I getting nervous? Let's see.

Inability, lack of experiance, not farmiliar with the medium, can't follow directions, afraid I might ruin something, and for sure, old age. Did I leave anything out?

Blacklist

Nicely done so far!

I have been observing the process and I congratulate the project mi friend Blacklist, is very interesting and is a good challenge, and I understand that you feel some fear or nerve by "uncharted waters", but you must be quiet because you're with a group of experts and connoisseurs aviation and modeling, ready to get ahead with you.

You are fine with what has been achieved so far, to be patient and remember that above all is the fun to do what you like and enjoying the learning at the process.

Un abrazo y sigo pendiente compadre!!

Luis Carlos
SANCER

YA KILLING ME!

OK, OK, My hair was on fire for a bit, but I managed to put it out.

My efforts are everywhere. Water base paints dry too fast and they are difficult to remove. I cannot really press on the wing, it's covered with doped silk.

I'm not even sure what aged yellow would look like on the bottom side of an aircraft?

These rows are somewhat uniform and I remember the process to get there. Oil base paint with some Japan drier.

Does this sample board pass the weatering/aged test? Am I getting there?

Thanks for the kind replies and you know I appreciate your help.

Blacklist

Some good info here. The key is when to know when to stop as it is easy to go overboard. Checking real aircraft helps.




Geo

Looks good to me...