Nicely done so far!
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parsifal
Colonel
no, not conned, complimented
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- #164
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- #165
Hey I'll be driving down to Florida this October,will it fit in my 3/4 ton Ram,???
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- #167
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- #168
Wing bottom rivet detail.
Couple of different colors but there will be another coat of paint over them so it doesn't matter.
Should
have applied all surface detail before any paint.
I still have flap framework and fuselage rivets to put in place.
After the coat of paint, I'll have a few paint detail questions.
Here's the steps.
Couple of different colors but there will be another coat of paint over them so it doesn't matter.
Should
have applied all surface detail before any paint.
I still have flap framework and fuselage rivets to put in place.
After the coat of paint, I'll have a few paint detail questions.
Here's the steps.
Good work so far!
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
You're doing a great job mi estimado Blacklist!
Saludos cordiales.
SANCER
Saludos cordiales.
SANCER
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- #172
I've been finishing up a bit more unnecessary detail on the underside. Almost ready for that last spraying of yellow.
Washes? The only way I can accent these surface details is with a wipe on and wipe off wash, correct?
I did a terrible job with the nose and I really don't want to make any mistakes with the underside areas.
I'm thinking oil base paint because it takes forever to dry and I can wipe off as much as I want. Keep in mind, I do want to keep the yellow, I only want the wash color at the "edges" of the vinyl pieces and rivets.
Am I headed in the right direction?
Blacklist
Washes? The only way I can accent these surface details is with a wipe on and wipe off wash, correct?
I did a terrible job with the nose and I really don't want to make any mistakes with the underside areas.
I'm thinking oil base paint because it takes forever to dry and I can wipe off as much as I want. Keep in mind, I do want to keep the yellow, I only want the wash color at the "edges" of the vinyl pieces and rivets.
Am I headed in the right direction?
Blacklist
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Looking good so far!
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- #174
Instead of the oil based colours you may use watercolors. Apply a darker colour ( it can be more dark yellow or simply black one very thinned with water ) just around these rivet line only . Do it gradually, step by step with a brush of very thin bristle ending .. it let you keep the process under control. When the watercolour is applied , wait for while and then wipe off some of the wash using a soft rag soaked with warm water. But it may be unnecessary because water likes gathering arouns protruded pieces because of surface tension of water. Having all that done you may spray a very thin layer of the yellow again. But it has to be really a very very thin coat in order to allow the wash be seen through the yellow. It also will soften down the dark colour around rivets and protect it against the dampness , etc. Using the watercolours will allow you to remove the wash and clear surface fully if applied incorrectly just with the soft rag and water.
BTW... the wheel bays should be painted black or RLM02 or a blue-grey, if you didn't make them hollow. Just to imitate the basins.
BTW... the wheel bays should be painted black or RLM02 or a blue-grey, if you didn't make them hollow. Just to imitate the basins.
And one more tip... washes aren't for accenting the surface details. The technigue is for imitating of gathering of a dirt in all apertures, slots etc.. To make someting bulge on a surface it is used the rule that all what is closer to a looking man has to be lighter and all that is farther from the guy has to be darker. In other words, if your surface is yellow ( like it is now ) all rivet heads have to be of a slightly lighter yellow colour than the surface one is.
In my opinion the way you should use for making the rivets accented is....
1. stick all rivets and panels to the wing.
2. spray the entire wing surface with the yellow.
3. dry brushing of rivet heads with the yellow of lighter tinge.
4. applying a dark wash in order to replicate of gathering of dirt around rivet heads and all apertures, slats, wiping off of the wash excess.
5. spraying of another but very, very thin layer of the base yellow colour. But it is unnecessary if you are satisfied with the final effect.
6. spraying of the clear protecting coat.
In my opinion the way you should use for making the rivets accented is....
1. stick all rivets and panels to the wing.
2. spray the entire wing surface with the yellow.
3. dry brushing of rivet heads with the yellow of lighter tinge.
4. applying a dark wash in order to replicate of gathering of dirt around rivet heads and all apertures, slats, wiping off of the wash excess.
5. spraying of another but very, very thin layer of the base yellow colour. But it is unnecessary if you are satisfied with the final effect.
6. spraying of the clear protecting coat.
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- #177
Wurger,
Wow! Thank you so much for that great reply!
I'm beginning to believe I should have given this process better thought in the beginning, or, I SHOULD HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT A BIT EARLY ON!!
OK, I'm a day or two late, I'm learning. And, as I said, this is the test bed for the Stuka.
So it seems that I should have used only that bright yellow vinyl. Then there would be no reason to dry brush a lighter yellow, correct?
Maybe I should remove and replace those different color rivets with the bright yellow?
Dry brush. How would I keep from NOT getting paint on surfaces between the rivets?
I think I'll set up a test "story board" with rivets. I'll do that.
Blacklist
Wow! Thank you so much for that great reply!
I'm beginning to believe I should have given this process better thought in the beginning, or, I SHOULD HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT A BIT EARLY ON!!
OK, I'm a day or two late, I'm learning. And, as I said, this is the test bed for the Stuka.
So it seems that I should have used only that bright yellow vinyl. Then there would be no reason to dry brush a lighter yellow, correct?
Maybe I should remove and replace those different color rivets with the bright yellow?
Dry brush. How would I keep from NOT getting paint on surfaces between the rivets?
I think I'll set up a test "story board" with rivets. I'll do that.
Blacklist
My pleasure.
Of course a modification of the way I mean the different turn of steps, is possible. I put them in the order because I don't know how much powerful is the adhesive of the rivets. The additional coat of the yellow colour and clear varnish can protect them against unsticking and the effect of fuel while the model flying. Unfortunately the aerodynamic effects and vibration during a flight are huge usually and can cause cracking or peeling away of paints as well. I have seen that effect on many flying models very often. But if you are able to remove the red vinil rivets and replace them with the light yellow made ones you can do that. I know you need to save on the weight of the model and the replacing so using the lighter, yellow vinil rivets only sounds reasonable. And no reason to dry brush them of course.
The dry brushing technique is done with a brush that is about to be dry what means almost without a paint. Q-tips or pieces of sponge can be used for this purpose too. A paint is applied with this way just by dabbing rivet tops with the dry brush ( Q-tip). The technique is also used for lightening of all edges. Below is an example. Please notice that the jet engine exchaust nozzles were initially painted black. Then the "dry brush" way used. All raised parts and edges got lighter colour while those deep-seated areas stayed darker. The final effect depends on how much of a paint was leaving on the brush and how firmly the brush was pressed. If there is too much of colour at the brush painting ending it is almost sure the paint gets on surfaces between the rivets. Therefore the techinques is called the Dry Brush because it has to be almost without the paint. Usually I use a paper towel to get rid of the paint excess from the brush bristle. It is enough to wipe there three or sometimes four times with the brush bristle and it is almost dry.
And here is a picture with something that is very difficult to name "wash" but I found this via the internet and decided to post here because I would like to pay your attention to the effect around these raised details there. Can you see the dark rings of dirt just around these details. This is the effect you should achieve around the rivet heads. Additionally... if the "Dry Brush" technique would be used on these details as well, it would cause their tops or edges looking lighter what would accent them more. Am I right?
Of course a modification of the way I mean the different turn of steps, is possible. I put them in the order because I don't know how much powerful is the adhesive of the rivets. The additional coat of the yellow colour and clear varnish can protect them against unsticking and the effect of fuel while the model flying. Unfortunately the aerodynamic effects and vibration during a flight are huge usually and can cause cracking or peeling away of paints as well. I have seen that effect on many flying models very often. But if you are able to remove the red vinil rivets and replace them with the light yellow made ones you can do that. I know you need to save on the weight of the model and the replacing so using the lighter, yellow vinil rivets only sounds reasonable. And no reason to dry brush them of course.
The dry brushing technique is done with a brush that is about to be dry what means almost without a paint. Q-tips or pieces of sponge can be used for this purpose too. A paint is applied with this way just by dabbing rivet tops with the dry brush ( Q-tip). The technique is also used for lightening of all edges. Below is an example. Please notice that the jet engine exchaust nozzles were initially painted black. Then the "dry brush" way used. All raised parts and edges got lighter colour while those deep-seated areas stayed darker. The final effect depends on how much of a paint was leaving on the brush and how firmly the brush was pressed. If there is too much of colour at the brush painting ending it is almost sure the paint gets on surfaces between the rivets. Therefore the techinques is called the Dry Brush because it has to be almost without the paint. Usually I use a paper towel to get rid of the paint excess from the brush bristle. It is enough to wipe there three or sometimes four times with the brush bristle and it is almost dry.
And here is a picture with something that is very difficult to name "wash" but I found this via the internet and decided to post here because I would like to pay your attention to the effect around these raised details there. Can you see the dark rings of dirt just around these details. This is the effect you should achieve around the rivet heads. Additionally... if the "Dry Brush" technique would be used on these details as well, it would cause their tops or edges looking lighter what would accent them more. Am I right?
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- #179
