1/8 Mig-3 But not really.

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

... Water base paints dry too fast and they are difficult to remove...

If you use the hairdryer for drying of that , that's no wonder. However these in the marked areas look good. Had you sprayed the gloss coat over the yellow colour before you applied the wash?

new1.jpg
 
Gentlemen,

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I did the shiny gloss coat on that sample also and it made no difference. Water base "everything" I tried, dried quickly and was extremely difficult to remove. Possibly the Brands? Even when I used no heat, it was still difficult cleaning away the edge the color made. Because of the fabric on the wings I cannot press and burnish.

Edges are visible on the test panel, there's the other side of the test panel also.

I really put some time in on this because the entire underside is an important area I would like to tackle properly and get a reasonable resemblance to what would look real or as close as I can possible get to a real look.

The oil paint mixed with Japan drier yield the results you circled, I could live with that look. Is that look OK enough to move forward and do the entire underside that way??

The areas that Wurger circled, a benefit doing it that way, would be that I remove the paint in the direction of air flow. Not so obvious on the test panel, but would be more obvious on the model.

Thanks for the input and help.

Blacklist

new1.jpg
 
OK. What kind of the water base paints do you use?

Wurger,

Liquitex artist color, acrylic

DEKA Gloss Air, waterbase airbrush enamel

Createx water base opaque airbrush colors

Winsor Newton artists acrylic gloss clear

Golden tubes acrylic

Liquitex tubes acrylic

I have clear mediums and airbrush cleaners.

Blacklist
 
I can see most ot the colours are the acrylic ones. And no wonder these dry very quickly. I think you need something similar to ink type. Or you have to use the oil base colours for the wash. The paints have to be easy removed ( washed) and long dry type.
 
Wurger,

Yes, I you are absolutely correct.

I did one more test with the oil base paint and decided to go with that.

Here's my morning. And I'm not kidding.

My hair didn't catch on fire, but I was a bit taxed from time to time.

Thing I have to understand and remember is, the applied paint CAN be washed away. If too much is removed, more can be added. Take away and if necessary add a bit till I get the appearance.

Observation and patients. I don't do well with either.

Here's my work, it's a start. Does it need anything?

Blacklist.

DSCN9254.jpg
DSCN9256.jpg
 
Looking good though.

Wurger,

OK. I see you ended in "though."

That tells me something.

What exactly are you leaving out? Ya leaving out something.

I know there's more because you could have said, "Looking good." :lol:

I'm not thin skinned, Besides, I'm still learning.

AKA, Grasshopper
 
Charles, by the "though" I mean the shapes of these damp patches. These are too "square". It looks like you used a brush with a wide bristle ending for applying of the wash. These should be of more random layout. I hope I explained that good in the English. Sorry if I didn't. But it's really looking good. :thumbright:
 
Charles, by the "though" I mean the shapes of these damp patches. These are too "square". It looks like you used a brush with a wide bristle ending for applying of the wash. These should be of more random layout. I hope I explained that good in the English. Sorry if I didn't. But it's really looking good. :thumbright:

Wurger,

Thanks for the reply.

I have no idea what a damp patch is?

As for the brush, I used a red sable flat, .25" wide, short hair. Paint was mixed with Japan drier. Still had to work quick doing an area at a time. Removed the wash with just Japan drier on a folded tiny piece of a rag I cut up in 2" squares. As you said, small areas at a time, so you are correct again.

If you or anyone else doesn't like what you see, just say so. Changes can still be made.

I don't want my work or the model to look lame.

"Ya Got it!" A line from the movie Galaxyquest. :lol:

Blacklist

Edited.

Wurger, I gave your reply some thought, "random" just sank in.

I believe I can remove some paint and make these areas a bit more random.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Weathering is a personal thing I think so I'm not sure how much you want to depict. New paint, especially on your "captured" aircraft, not much weathering. You're familiar with this photo....

blacklist.jpg


....even on white paint, the weathering is heavier or lighter in certain spots. I'm going through my books trying to find a shot of the underside of the wings but no luck so far. I say, if you're happy with it, it's good.





Geo
 
I dont think its bad at all. i think its bl**dy good actually.

Sometimes in modelling, its knowing when to stop and let it be what it is thats the tricky part. I think the weathering you are applying is pretty good, and would counsel you finish it as is. Weathering is dirt, its fading, its use, so trying to make weathering uniform or pretty is a common mistake ive noticed.

Finally, i wish i could do as well with my efforts at weathering
 
Geo,

I went through a bunch of books also and I have plenty, mostly GA, Warbirds, many are old. Sold some on Amazon.

I did find this photo on line. I have referred to it.

Blacklist
MiG-3%20CT+SVsmall.jpg
 
Geo,

I tried to Post that photo before, but it wouldn't upload. I think it was a ding, fling or bling? :lol: I opened it in Photoshop and managed to figure out the issue.

Here's my palette, One color, simple, and Japan drier. I used all three brushes. One was exclusive for the Japan drier, which I used for wash removal, as per Wurger's direction, and cut paper towels. I had to work quickly, it was taxing, about every ten minutes I needed drugs.:lol: Yes I'm KIDDING! I no longer do drugs. I'M KIDDING AGAIN! :lol:

I also noticed that the oil base paint with Japan drier, is really difficult to remove a day later. Impossible actually, so repairing what I have already done can't be by just washing the pigment.

I tried a harder thinner and it removed the yellow. So, that look is locked in. Good, bad or ugly.

The other photo is the landing light faring. Currently made of painted vinyl. I have those tiny fasteners, six here, as like the ones on the nose. These same fasteners will be all over the removal panels on the wings.

I'm not sure how I will treat the inside of the landing light? Has to have a clear windscreen, but the light and what represents the inside, I'm thinking about. I cannot recess this area, I need the leading edge uncut for strength.

I do have foils and chrome vinyl, so I have stuff to experiment with.

Sorry I didn't Post that photo before, others seeing it could have been a benefit to me.

Blacklist
DSCN9259.jpg
DSCN9260.jpg
 
Last edited:
I dont think its bad at all. i think its bl**dy good actually.

Sometimes in modelling, its knowing when to stop and let it be what it is thats the tricky part. I think the weathering you are applying is pretty good, and would counsel you finish it as is. Weathering is dirt, its fading, its use, so trying to make weathering uniform or pretty is a common mistake ive noticed.

Finally, i wish i could do as well with my efforts at weathering

Parsifal,

I just noticed your reply, sorry I'm late in responding to it.

You're kind to say the least, and I'm actually stopping. Good advice.

Unless. :lol:

You can see I pulled the masked areas on the nose. I'm not all that happy with the color yellow, maybe a bit bright?

What do you think about that?

I could tone it down with a bit of white mixed in with the clear matt that will be going over it?

I may do the German markings next on the underside, get the bottom finished before I move on.

Thanks again for that reply.

Wurger, what do you think?

I forgot, that's right, I have those wheel wells to detail also.
DSCN9262.jpg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back